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Won't shift after clutch install

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NavyP583

15+ Year Contributor
35
0
Oct 12, 2005
Jacksonville, Florida
Ok well i've searched alot on this topic and ive tried about everything that i have found.
Well my TOB took a crap, along with some other things. So I upgraded the trans with an ACT 2600 with a street disc, XACT flywheel, oem TOB, fork and fulcrum ball, axle seals, slave, ss clutch line from master to the slave, shifter bushings, and royal purple syncromax. Now the car wont shift when the car is running. I tried a longer slave rod and adjusting the pushrod on the master cylinder. Neither idea worked. So i can use some input if anyone has an idea for me to try before i drop the trans again. Also the TOB seems to be resting on the Pressure plate fingers even when the clutch pedal is not depressed. Any ideas are much appreciated.
 
New slave cylinder ? Did you properly bleed it ? It does take a long time to bleed . 2 people are a must .
 
Maybe try adjusting the shift cables first its alot easier than dropping the tranny. Cables due stretch over time.
 
Also look at your shift cable rubber bushings make sure the rubber is still there and that the metal pin oblonged etc.
 
whoa, take a step back, don't go pulling transmissions without checking the super obvious. did you look at where the clutch fork sits in the 'window' from the trans? Is it in the middle? I needs to sit more towards the middle. If the TOB seems to be sitting on the PP, then the fork finger would be more inclined to be towards the passenger side of the 'window'. If it's not centered, then I would assume it's a clutch fork issue.

If it's in the middle, I would try rebleeding the hydraulic system. Rebleed it with a friend and see if that helps at all.

Oh, and throw out that stupid extended slave rod. It's a cheap bandage to a big problem.
 
I have check the position of the fork in the trans, it is center. But i might shim it to be towards the driver side a lil more. Also it is a brand new OEM fork and fulcrum ball. I dont wanna use that extended slave rod i was just using it to see if it would change the outcome. It didnt so i took it back out. I have bled it all the way i know. The gravity way. then i also did it 3 times with a friend to push the pedal. Also the car can shift perfect when the car is on. It just doesnt wanna go when its running. I think im gonna take the flywheel to a shop to make sure it is stepped correctly from the factory. And ill also look at the fork to see if it is different somehow from the one i took out.
 
Make sure you are bleeding properly; Fill reservoir, pump clutch a lot, hold to floor, open bleeder valve, wait till bubbles stop, close bleeder valve. And repeat several times. Use one of these to ensure you don't suck air back in. And do not let the reservoir run empty. Slave Cylinder for the Clutch
 
I have check the position of the fork in the trans, it is center. But i might shim it to be towards the driver side a lil more. Also it is a brand new OEM fork and fulcrum ball. I dont wanna use that extended slave rod i was just using it to see if it would change the outcome. It didnt so i took it back out. I have bled it all the way i know. The gravity way. then i also did it 3 times with a friend to push the pedal. Also the car can shift perfect when the car is on. It just doesnt wanna go when its running. I think im gonna take the flywheel to a shop to make sure it is stepped correctly from the factory. And ill also look at the fork to see if it is different somehow from the one i took out.

It takes more than 3 times . The tube that you place on the slave cylinder bleeder needs to be in a container of fluid . You need to pump the pedal , open valve , see bubbles , close valve . repeat this many many times until no air bubbles come out . Be sure to not let the tube come out of your container .


Here is the vfaq . The only proper way to do it .
Slave Cylinder for the Clutch
 
My next stupid question . Are you sure the trans is properly seated to the block ? I ma grasping at air for the moment .
 
Yes i have watched the slave push the clutch fork while bleeding and while attemping to shift. I have also spent alot of time ensure the trans and block are aligned correct. all seems fine to me, there are no gaps anywhere. The starter engages the flywheel just fine as well. The only thing left that i can think of is that perhaps there was some factory defect in the step of the flywheel. So im gonna take it all back apart check everything again and take the flywheel to a machine shop to ensure it is done correctly.
 
Yes, ive checked that and that is not the issue since i can shift into each gear with the car off. Ive read in some posts the the pressure plate doesnt make contact with the flywheel when you torque the pressure plate bolts to it. If this is the case could i just tap it with a rubber mallet to ensure the proper seat against the flywheel before i try to torque anything? Soon im about to hit everything in reach with a hammer this is gettin me frustrated.
 
OK, well i dropped the trans tonight put the stock stuff back in till i figure out whats up with this stuff. So far i also put a 1mm shim on the pivot ball so its sits a lil better in the fork opening. Also upon inspection of the pressure plate fingers i noticed that the fingers where nearly strait ( no more angle), after i removed the bolts it sprung back to normall, well kinda almost half the fingers where bent. Still didnt check the step on the flywheel yet though. But ill let you know when i find out
 
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