Wobble's guide to setting up your bov properly..

[Groomz]

I prefer the pull type design of the HKS versus the more conventional design of the Tial. Tial is overkill for most street DSMs anyway. There both good blow-off valves though. You can't go wrong with either, but I don't want to turn this into another "which is the best BOV???!!?!??l33tmonk3y" thread.

Get whatever you guys want.

 

[DSMJim]

Originally posted by Wobble
wow, i bet your turbo is just delighted with that setup.. yikes

That is the best way to setup a bov, regardless of you put in this thread. I do understand this is your "guide" however I have different opinions on setting up a BOV, and I have set up a lot of BOV's in the last 3 years.

From personal experience on my own car, when you set it up so that it is just tight enough to not leak at idle it leaks at part throttle, and leaks boost a full throttle. Set your BOV up like you say then do a pressure test and see what happens. If it doesn't leak I'll be very surprised.

The valve should be tight enough that it doesn't blow off under small amounts of boost 1-2 psi, you will get a small surge noise. That little boost does nothing to hurt the bearing.

When racing I never lift to shift anyway so having a BOV is totally useless for me when I'm at the track other then the very end of the 1/4 and there I slowly let off the gas anyway so there is no compressor surge or need for a BOV either. The reason that I tighten it down is because I use a two step at the line to launch and want the bov to keep shut because the two step cycles the rpm from 5300-5500 and when the valve was not tight it was harder to build boost because the bov would open a little as the rpm cycled between 5300-5500 (as the two step limits the engine from reving faster at the line).

So my turbo is just fine with my setup, so you can save your YIKES.

 

[Wobble]

your setup is fine, at the track, daily driven on the street having your BOV clamped down super hard causes compessor surge, and that is bad for any turbo on any car.. period..

my guide was to *PROPERLY* setup a type-s for street use, no for setting up for use at the track for use with a 2 step or studderbox in strict race conditions.

however my way definatly works fine at the track and i get no leaks up to 25psi with it setup the way i described... yes it leaks at parital throttle.. it suppsoed to and as long as its recirculated its not REALLY leaking, some of the air is just bypassing the turbo.. which is fine and in fact makes for smoother driving in NORMAL conditions where you are not either at WOT or idle all the time.

 

[Tallen]

Ah yea, thats why I love my HKS. Its a no-BS setup.

 

[Groomz]

Originally posted by Tallen
Ah yea, thats why I love my HKS. Its a no-BS setup.

 

[loreak]

does the hks have any adjustments like the greddy? and you can recirculate that too?

 

[RuBiCaNT5X]

Originally posted by loreak
does the hks have any adjustments like the greddy? and you can recirculate that too?

I know they make a recirc kit for the SSQ BOV...

 

[DSMJim]

Originally posted by Wobble
however my way definatly works fine at the track and i get no leaks up to 25psi with it setup the way i described... yes it leaks at parital throttle.. it suppsoed to and as long as its recirculated its not REALLY leaking, some of the air is just bypassing the turbo.. which is fine and in fact makes for smoother driving in NORMAL conditions where you are not either at WOT or idle all the time.

The problem with your setup is that it leaks at part throttle. Your transient boost response will suffer as a result. What’s happening is your bov is open at part throttle as you described, which in itself is ok if your re-circulated, however when you step on the gas the valve will not close until you reach positive manifold pressure and that's harder when the valve is leaking air.

What happens is your response takes not long longer but has a slower transition from 0 vac to positive pressure where the turbo overcomes the motor sucking in air to being pressurized.

Compressor surge with 2psi is not hard on the turbo, it's so little pressure it makes no difference. Compressor surge with 15psi or even 6psi will damage the turbo, yes. The reason I have it shut down hard to anything over 2psi is to smooth out the transition from vac to 0 to boost. With a SMIM it's even more critical because the volume is larger and it takes longer.

Your obviously happy with your setup so

 

[DeezNutsForYou]

 

[DeezNutsForYou]

can someone tell me an easy way to set my type s without adjusting it while is running. I have a 92 gsx, so the f*cking thing is upside down, and I can't even get a wrench in there. And how do you tell if its leaking at idle or not. Do I have to pull the hose off and physically watch the plunger? Thanks for the help, I think my setup is OK, but it could probably be better. And how do you get the loudest sound out of it, with the least amount of damage done to it or the turbo?

 

[Wobble]

If you have it recirculated like your supposed to, it cant really leak because it will only leak metered air from the system.. back into it..

but if your venting to the atmosphere and or wanting the loudest most riced out blast possable with no concern for performance you might wanna check a honda forum or some other non performance related site

 

[DeezNutsForYou]

F*ck off, just because I like to hear a loud bov you think its rice. I don't really give a sh*t what some jack ass like yourself thinks of my opinions, I just wanted an answer to my question. But it sounds like you can't even do that. My brothers 90 laser has a type s and it's loud as hell. So I was wondering why one setup would be louder that the other, and how to change mine to what I want. I realize that every car is different, but the bov itself is the the same, so whats up?

 

[DeezNutsForYou]

I forgot, I am venting off the recirculating pipe. I have the stock pipe in place I just cut an inch off in the middle and put a T with a small filter on it. This way my car still runs well, but I can hear the bov a little more.

 

[RuBiCaNT5X]

Originally posted by DeezNutsForYou
F*ck off, just because I like to hear a loud bov you think its rice. I don't really give a sh*t what some jack ass like yourself thinks of my opinions, I just wanted an answer to my question. But it sounds like you can't even do that. My brothers 90 laser has a type s and it's loud as hell. So I was wondering why one setup would be louder that the other, and how to change mine to what I want. I realize that every car is different, but the bov itself is the the same, so whats up?

If you wanted a loud BOV, why not just the RFL? It's cheaper than the Greddy and designed to be vented... This whole thread is meant to tune the BOV properly, rather than use it incorrectly..

 

[DeezNutsForYou]

As soon as I get my GM MAF then I won't have to worry about recirc. but until then this works great. And how is this using it incorrectly. Do you think the bov knows its fluid isn't being returned to the turbo, to cause an unbalanced surge to the compressor wheel. And by the way I WOULD like to know how to tune my bov correctly, but does it really effect the functioning of the bov where I choose to route the overcompressed gas.

 

[Wobble]

""I am venting off the recirculating pipe. I have the stock pipe in place I just cut an inch off in the middle and put a T with a small filter on it.""

and you call me a jackass?? you might aswell have it fully vented your STILL losing metered air and your STILL gonna leak under vac.. if its leaking


""As soon as I get my GM MAF then I won't have to worry about recirc""

yes you will, unless you do a blowthrough...


""Do you think the bov knows its fluid isn't being returned to the turbo""

, i think your confusing your turbo fluid with your altezza blinker fluid...

you clearly have a very limited understanding of how this stuff works, so maby you should listen to what is said in this thread insted of telling its author to "#### off" because apparently even though you ask for advice you already know what you want...



But dont sweat it, because even if your car runs slower, dirtys the oil with excess fuel, and fouls the plugs... it will still sound " MaD tYte!!!!!!! Y0"

like i said before, your priorities do not fit the topic at hand...

 

[DSMJim]

Originally posted by DeezNutsForYou
As soon as I get my GM MAF then I won't have to worry about recirc. but until then this works great. And how is this using it incorrectly. Do you think the bov knows its fluid isn't being returned to the turbo, to cause an unbalanced surge to the compressor wheel. And by the way I WOULD like to know how to tune my bov correctly, but does it really effect the functioning of the bov where I choose to route the overcompressed gas.

Ok Guys relax here or this thread is going to get locked pretty quick.

DeezNuts, go back to the beginning of this thread, Wobble already gave a very good explanation of how to adjust your BOV. Here is the meat and potatoes of it

Wobble on the first page. Read it, use it, love it
1: YOU MUST RECIRCULATE PERIOD.. you will NEVER get a good setting if you vent.. youll see why..

2: undo your dump tube from the bov outlet/purge and plug the hole leading into the MAS this will ensure a steady idle (dont want any unmetered air causing spastic idle and thus spastic vaccum)

3: start your car and let it reach operating temp. and idle.


4:loosen the lock nut (if applicable) and get a flashlight

5: slowly loosen/decrease the pressure on the spring untill the plunger begins to open a SLIGHT amount.. do this VERY slow as the bov may react slowly due to commin vac irregularities..

6: once it has just SLIGHTLY cracked open.. just a tiny bit.. lock this in positiion..

7:reconnect everything.. your done

OK and to answer your question Deeznuts here you go..

Originally posted by DeezNutsForYou
And how is this using it incorrectly. Do you think the bov knows its fluid isn't being returned to the turbo, to cause an unbalanced surge to the compressor wheel.

Your mass air flow sensor counts all the air entering the system. This is how your car knows how much fuel to add. It works sort of like this: You know what air fuel ratio is and how it affects your car I'm sure. So at WOT your probably at 12:1 Air / Fuel ratio or 12 parts air, one part fuel.

Your MAF allows 12 parts of air by into the turbo and adds 1 part of fuel as it's entering the engine and there you have perfect air fuel ratio. But when you shift your maf has counted 12 parts of air, and your blow off valve just let 4 parts of it go. If you have it re-circulated it's still within the intake system (ie after the MAF) so no problem but if your vented it's gone. Your MAF doesn't know its gone so now you have 8 parts of air entering with one part of fuel and your running extremely rich.

That's a very over simplified explanation of how it works but you get the idea. This is how venting hurts your car. Now at idle BOV's tend to leak and cause your car to run rich and stumble and other drivability problems because your loosing air that's not counted.

Basically the gist of what were saying that venting has so many bad points that nothing can possibly make up for it. You can't lose metered air no mater what. If you do your hurting the performance of your car, and isn't that what we all bought this particular car for, performance?

 

[DeezNutsForYou]

, i think your confusing your turbo fluid with your altezza blinker fluid...
obviously you have no clue of fluid systems or laminar flow. I'll get my crayons out on this one, a fluid is any object that takes the shape of its container. Your breathing fluid right now

I do appriciate the help DSMJim, I would like a good setup but still be able to hear some noise. I realize how air/fuel works and how it effects things somewhat. If I really understood it I probably wouldn't use the little filter in the ricirc. pipe though. Because I know its pulling a lot of unmetered air so this would cause the car to run a little on the lean side. So maybe it balances out, probably not.

 

[sidoze]

wobble, i like your logic but the problem is my blitz valve leaks at 18psi, they told me it was going to happen...since the pressures are equalized like you say then why does this happen?

 

[LowFourteen95]

This whole thread has made me wonder a whole lot, and I believe there are still some unanswered questions:

How does crushing a 1G BOV enable it to hold more boost?

What are the reasons for upgrading from a 1G BOV to any other as far as a performance upgrade?

 

[DSMJim]

Originally posted by LowFourteen95
This whole thread has made me wonder a whole lot, and I believe there are still some unanswered questions:

How does crushing a 1G BOV enable it to hold more boost?

What are the reasons for upgrading from a 1G BOV to any other as far as a performance upgrade?

When you crush a 1G bov it makes the spring tighter the same as when you tighten down your Type-S Bov except you can losen off a type-s or make it tighter than a 1G bov.

The fact that you can control what the type-s does makes it an upgrade (the same as any other bov) When I'm at the track I crank my BOV right down so it doens't even open. I don't want a bov leaking for any reason, and I don't really let off the gas to shift so it's not a big deal. That is only at the track however. It will still blow off just takes 20+psi to make to go.

On the street I make it tight so that it will not go off under 2-3 psi of boost.

 

[WSU99GSX]

Wow, thanks for the info, I was leaning towards an HKS SSQ simply because I didnt want to mess with the adjusting of the Greddy as I watched one of my friends wrestle with the thing for days. But now I feel pretty confident about adjusting it the right way the first time, so again thanks!

 

[bertrenolds]

So I took off my recirculation pipe and tryed watching the vlave but it didn't seem to move so I have been trying to do it by ear. Should I use a leak tester and then pressurise my system because no mater how much I soften it I cant get it to open but it still blows off and I can hear the difference every time I adjust it. Can I keep making it harder until it doesn't open when I step on the pedeal a little bit and then let off until it doesn't release until a point I am satisfied? I did read that to hard and it hurts your turbo.
Does anyone have video of what it should sound like? High pitched then low pitched or is it if it blows off it sounds more llike a stock 1g BOV?

 

[jrohner]

Kind of an ancient thread to get started on again.

Do a boost leak test!

 

[bertrenolds]

Would you suggest that I start another thread reguarding exactly what this thread is talking about instead of using the search button like a noob?

So pressurize my system to the PSI I am looking for then loosen/soften my BOV until it releases?