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Will this headlight mod work?... Your thoughts greatly appreciated! :) PICS INCLUDED

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Yea turn this headlight mod into a fireworks display :p

Just converted farenheit into celcius and I'm going to try it out in my mates oven now haha :p
 
Wow alot more easier than I expected

Heated the oven to 100*c with the light in it. Left it for about 5 minutes.

Pulled it out, stuck a screw driver between the lens and the housing and the thing just opened up. The glue is some what like gum after it goes through the oven :)

Hmmm, now I have to cut the housing and the lens... Are you sure a dremel will work through the glass?! :confused:
 
Photos of what I have done so far in order :)
 

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Just waiting on the delivery of a dremel set from one of my mates... Should be here in about an hour.

I was thinking about it, while I was here, should paint the headlight housing black. Would make alot of difference :)
 
Well my housing was plastic, I didn't know the GVR4 was glass. I am not sure how you would go about cutting the glass. That sucks, you might be screwed. Because trying to fiberglass onto glass might not work either.
 
Yes I might be screwed... I've called around to some glass companies here in Auckland, New Zealand and not many people will even try and cut my headlight glass. One company will try it but can't garauntee anything.

Hmmm :p

Damn, how did Top Secret JPN do theirs? Haha :)
 
icedoutrolla said:
Damn, how did Top Secret JPN do theirs? Haha :)
I don't know but I bet it is Top secret. Are you sure the Supra headlight is glass? You could fabricate a new headlight housing from Plexi or Lexan or the like. That would take some skill and time though.
 
We got plexi/plastic lenses in the US on our MKIVs but I believe it was the European/JDM ones that got glass lenses. Not sure exactly where they were available but I know they are out there.
 
If i remember right dremel makes some cutting tips for glass, might want to check their website for info.
 
Q: What will cut glass?

A: We do not have an accessory that will cut glass. The process is very hot and requires a bath or wash and we can not recommend doing that with our tool as the liquid will travel up the shaft to the motor.

From Dremel.com :(
 
I'm sure they are too... Looks like I'm stuck until I find a glass cutter -even so, that won't be a cheap task :p
 
I'm not trying to hate on this idea. But I have a question.

Will cutting a hole to let in "cold" air really help at all? I mean the air gets sucked in and goes straight into the turbo which is hot as hell, like 700 degrees or so, then passes through the IC or whatever cooling method you use. So is having the intake suck in colder air really going to matter if it passes through the really hot turbo which makes all the air really hot anyway?

That's my only real thought on the "cold air intakes" for turbo cars.

Let me know if I'm wrong about that and it does really affect your air temp.
 
Xero_Tolerance said:
I'm not trying to hate on this idea. But I have a question.

Will cutting a hole to let in "cold" air really help at all? I mean the air gets sucked in and goes straight into the turbo which is hot as hell, like 700 degrees or so, then passes through the IC or whatever cooling method you use. So is having the intake suck in colder air really going to matter if it passes through the really hot turbo which makes all the air really hot anyway?

That's my only real thought on the "cold air intakes" for turbo cars.

Let me know if I'm wrong about that and it does really affect your air temp.

well let's assume you are sucking engine bay air at 170 degrees or something, add on another 150 from the turbo to get you to 320, let the ic cool it 100 degrees and you're now pumping 220 degree air into the motor. but if you start with 70 degree air, let the turbo heat it 150 to 220, then let the ic cool it 100 degrees you're now only at 120 degrees.

these numbers are ones i just pulled out of my ass, but you can see the point. also the cooler the air is before it hits the ic the longer it will take for it to heatsoak which means longer run times before you have to stop and cool off if you're doing something like open track days or just having some fun on the interstate.
 
Yeah the turbo does heat the air, but like Kyle said the cooler it is going in the cooler it will be going out. So the benefits are surely worth it. Anything you can do to cool the intake charge is a good mod. Something else you can do if the headlight mod isn't going to work for you is just sheilding your air filter off from the rest of the engine bay. It is very cheap to do.
 
I think the best combo you could probably try is to put a heat shield around your intake filter/pipe to block off the hot air from the engine, and have the hole in your headlight feed outside air to your filter which would create the coldest air possible. I always have concerns about heat shields blocking off room under the engine and the filter not having enough space to draw air from so the headlight mod in my opinion would be perfect.
 
if its anything like a 2g you could try blocking off the intake area>>> figured you were going to do that anyway and getting cold air from the highpressure area that originally fed the airbox. Just open up the opening (sounds redundant!).

You will get higher gains from blocking the intake off from the warm air than trying to just point cold air at it and hope for the best.

looks like the area between the bumper and wheel well is a high pressure area since that is where the sidemounts are on 1gs...
 
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