Will this be enough for a 12.5

[daltah]

Below is a list of all my current mods on my 95 tsi awd. Will 660cc injectors and a evoIII16g be enough to get me in the mid 12's ? I also want this to be a daily driver and dont want to spend a extra 200.00-350.00 for a 50trim if I dont need it. My goal is just for mid 12's and around 300awhp.

Intake
MBC
Accell plug wires
3-inch O2 Eliminator Downpipe
3-inch High-Flow cat
3-inch ATR catback
Full set of underdrive pulleys
S-AFC
Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator
Walbro 255 High Pressure Fuel Pump
Apex'i EL2 boost gauge and control box
HKS SSQ BOV
AGP FMIC(Spearco 24x12x3.5 Core, 2.5 inch short routed Piping)
Symborski Shift Kit
ACT2100 Clutch
Speed-Source shifter bushings
B&M Short throw shifter(50% reduction)
Greddy Counterwieght Shift knob
Eibach Pro-kit
Tokico "blues"
Front and Rear strut tower bars,
ADR Concept Pro Limited in gunmetal 17inch Rim(17lbs)

 

[v8killerr1]

you should easily get a 12.5 with that setup unless you have retarded tuning or a big boost leak. The evo 16g has gotten into the 11s

 

[fourreGsixty3]

This is on the borders of bench racing, the only way to know is to take it to the track. After a few runs, and a good tune, you will be running low/mid 12s. Also is this street driven, or occasionally driven? If it is street driven I would put the harmonic balancer back on since you will be traveling at consistant rpm's say on the high way, and this can do damage, race engines can get away without the harmonic balancers and run crank pulley's like ## and AEM because they run for a few seconds down the track and are going through the rpm's that they dont stay at one level like when driving on the highway. Also I would throw in a set of NGK 7s gapped to .028 so you get the most efficient spark.

Dustin

 

[gsxAWDdsm692]

How is your clutch? If its bad then I would suggest upgrading to a 2600. Also is the turbo ported? I'd port out the manifold and get a evo O2 dump. If you want to go beyond invest in a DSMlink. Good setup though, good luck.

 

[daltah]

I will be driving it about 4 times a week. Should I put the stock pulley back on? What kind of damage can it do? I have never heard of underdrive pulleys doing damage before

 

[denniegst]

i thought it would be really hard to reach 300 hp with the evo3, unless you are doing some fine tunning which would involve something more better than safc, dsmlink.

 

[fourreGsixty3]

I will be driving it about 4 times a week. Should I put the stock pulley back on? What kind of damage can it do? I have never heard of underdrive pulleys doing damage before

The engine makes vibrations while driving, the harmonic balancer keeps the vibrations from going through the engine, and knocking out of wack. It is ok to run with one like you have if your just making runs down the 1/4, the engine does not stay at one rpm for too long so it wont kill the engine.

Dustin

 

[CanadianTSi]

Basically the same setup at 20psi and pump gas netted me 110mph traps a few years ago, so yes mid 12's should be possible.

Although I would agree you should step up to a 2600.

 

[DGajre777]

As stated earlier, this is bench racing which is not allowed. However, I'll comment on your parts list.
1) An evo III with a 3" downpipe will most definately give you creep if you don't port the turbo. If you plan to install everything at once and run over 18psi of boost, you'll be fine.
2) I don't see why you need a full set of underdrive pulleys. The stock ones work fine. Underdrive pulleys without harmonic balancers are made for engines that are balanced (you don't have one). A search will give you more info.
3) Get Tokico Illumina shocks instead of HP.
4) You have an AWD get an ACT 2600 instead of the 2100.
5) If you plan to vent your SSQV, you'll need some kind of MAFT setup
6) Add a logger to your list.
7) An ebay SSAC/XS FMIC is going to be a LOT cheaper than the AGP kit. Check out the huge bible thread ebay FMICs
8) Make sure your AFPR is a good AFPR that raises fuel pressure on a 1:1 ratio to boost, the B&M is crap.

 

[gsxAWDdsm692]

This is a good thread for people planning to upgrade, but there are like 3245435326 more. It will probably get closed, people should make bets on these kinds of threads .

 

[daltah]

As stated earlier, this is bench racing which is not allowed. However, I'll comment on your parts list.
1) An evo III with a 3" downpipe will most definately give you creep if you don't port the turbo. If you plan to install everything at once and run over 18psi of boost, you'll be fine.
2) I don't see why you need a full set of underdrive pulleys. The stock ones work fine. Underdrive pulleys without harmonic balancers are made for engines that are balanced (you don't have one). A search will give you more info.
3) Get Tokico Illumina shocks instead of HP.
4) You have an AWD get an ACT 2600 instead of the 2100.
5) If you plan to vent your SSQV, you'll need some kind of MAFT setup
6) Add a logger to your list.
7) An ebay SSAC/XS FMIC is going to be a LOT cheaper than the AGP kit. Check out the huge bible thread ebay FMICs
8) Make sure your AFPR is a good AFPR that raises fuel pressure on a 1:1 ratio to boost, the B&M is crap.

My mods list are the parts that were already on the car when I bought it. It already has a AGP fmic with short piping. Also Ill be taking the pulleys off because they were on it when I bought it along the the act 2100.

 

[fourreGsixty3]

Yes, like Dee said, underdrive pulley's are more for balanced engine assembly's, go with a set of adjustable struts, I would go with an ACT 2900 instead of a 2600, it maybe a bit of over kill, but it has the same pedal pressure as a 2100, and more TQ clamping force then the 2600, also I believe the HKS SSQ cant be recirculated, so you would need a MAF set-up like Dee stated, a GM MAF set up inbetween the BOV and TB, this will allow you to vent to the atmospere without running rich here is a link>>>http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=113858
EDIT: I forgot this to add in with what Dee said, here is a link to porting the 16G>>>
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/porting-turbo.html, do this and creep shouldn't happen to you.
Dustin

 

[DGajre777]

My mods list are the parts that were already on the car when I bought it. It already has a AGP fmic with short piping. Also Ill be taking the pulleys off because they were on it when I bought it along the the act 2100.

Well in that case, wait for the HPs to blow and when they do, get the Illuminas. Wait for the 2100 to die, when it does get the 2600 or 2900.

650ccs will do fine for an Evo III 16G. Check your AFPR and see what kind it is. If it is a B&M AFPR you will need to replace it with a good (Aeromotive) AFPR.

If you don't want to get a MAFT unit, recirculate the SSQV. Here is a kit made by HKS - http://www.hksusa.com/products/?id=799

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Or you can just get the insert and make your own tube.
http://www.hksusa.com/products/?id=798

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[fourreGsixty3]

Well I guess I was wrong on it not being able to be recirculated, maybe its cause I never seen an SSQ being recirculated. Also if its a B&M, its essentially a piggyback to the stock FPR, and it will be over flowed just like the stocker when at WOT so the FP wont be raised on a 1:1 base.

Dustin

 

[daltah]

Well in that case, wait for the HPs to blow and when they do, get the Illuminas. Wait for the 2100 to die, when it does get the 2600 or 2900.

650ccs will do fine for an Evo III 16G. Check your AFPR and see what kind it is. If it is a B&M AFPR you will need to replace it with a good (Aeromotive) AFPR.

If you don't want to get a MAFT unit, recirculate the SSQV. Here is a kit made by HKS - http://www.hksusa.com/products/?id=799

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Or you can just get the insert and make your own tube.
http://www.hksusa.com/products/?id=798

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

How can I check to see if it already has a MAFT unit? The bov is vented but I dont have idle problems or anything.

 

[fourreGsixty3]

Idle problems aren't the problem, think of it this way ok, with a stock 1G or 2G MAF the sensor is in the intake pipe going to the turbo, the ecu measures this air and adds the appropriate fuel to make the correct A/F Ratio this is measured before the BOV when the BOV vents it releases some of that air, but the ECU still thinks the same amount of air is still there, so the A/F Ratio becomes rich since the fuel stays the same for less air. A GM MAF will be on the UICP after the BOV most of the time. I circled it in Black on this pic. Credit to the pic goes to Dan K. our very own project_tsi.

 

[JOEY A]

i thought it would be really hard to reach 300 hp with the evo3, unless you are doing some fine tunning which would involve something more better than safc, dsmlink.

Really hard? Why is that, it should be really easy to hit 300whp on his setup or even more.


EVOIII is the most under rated turbo



If the car is right, and yuo can drive 12s insnt a problem at all.

 

[daltah]

Ok my car doesnt have a maft but the intake doesnt have a area that connects the bov to it to recirculate.

 

[fourreGsixty3]

Ok my car doesnt have a maft but the intake doesnt have a area that connects the bov to it to recirculate.

Thats what I figured the GM isnt easy to miss. Keep it recirculated unless you have that GM MAF.

Really hard? Why is that, it should be really easy to hit 300whp on his setup or even more./EVOIII is the most under rated turbo/If the car is right, and yuo can drive 12s insnt a problem at all.

I wouldn't say easy but its do able, with the proper set-up, and a great tune, the turbo is rated for 400hp, but that would be kinda hard to make on the EVO III but its do able as well, nope 12s aren't a problem but he need a good tune, and plenty of seat time.

Dustin

 

[gsxAWDdsm692]

Is he joking?
How are you a proven member?

 

[talontsi101]

i've seen people where i live run 11's all day with a evoIII tuning is big I agree but i've seen throw together cars run low twelves burning like a diesel down the track just about anything can be done with a dsm

 

[denniegst]

MyBeatGSX does some pretty good reasoning about the evo3 on this thread:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=239290&highlight=50+trim

 

[andymoraitis]

Is he joking?
How are you a proven member?

Watch it with the attitude. If you don't have something useful to contribute, don't post at all.

The point Dustin is making is that the majority of the members on this site think they can slap on a turbo and run big numbers. What amazes me is that very few people understand that it's the combination of parts and, most importantly, the tune that makes big power. Unfortunately the critical component is the least understood.

Is 300WHP doable? Absolutely as are the track times you want to run. Spend more time researching a proper tuning combination though or you'll be beating your head against the wall with AFC's and MAFT's that are basically garbage as individual tuning components.

 

[fourreGsixty3]

Thanks Andy, thats generally is what I was getting at. No matter what turbo you have you will never reach its full capabilities if you aren't able to tune your car, and the parts that you get aren't good compinations together. For example you have a 2.0L, and you want cams, the cams can give you anywhere from 15 whp-25whp, if you through a stroker specific cam in it thinking all cams are the same, your going to be getting near the 15whp, sure this is good, but you could put in a set of 272s, or FP2s, or Comp 200s, and get more in the 20-25whp range, both are good, but I would rather get the set of cams that are a good combination for that engine. In the end it all comes down to one thing, the tune, because it doesn't matter if your putting 500whp down, if your tune is shitty you will be hitting 12s all day long.
EDIT: Andy...in a nutshell...

Dustin

 

[andymoraitis]

In a nutshell, there you have it...