will the stock crank be ok?

[dragonov_elite]

i am just wondering because i have a list of parts for my motor build and that is the single most expensive thing so. my question is do you think the stock crank would work well with this set up?


Here is a list of prices I have put together for you.

Degrease block $41.50
Bore/finish hone block w/plateau ultra finish $85.50
Deck block $50
Block prep: Final wash block/paint block/install balance shaft bushings
and frost plugs $55
Install main studs $20
Check main line bore after stud installation $20
Line hone block after main stud installation $85
Install pistons on rods $12
Set piston ring end gaps $45
Blueprint block - $80


Disassemble head and inspect $42.50
Dye check head for cracks $19.50
Degrease head $21
Cut valve seats for oversized valves (four angle) $150
Resurface head $42.50
Drill out head bolt holes in head $25
Remove old guides, install new bronze guides (highly recommended with
stainless valves) $72
Blueprint head: set valve stem heights, spring heights, verify proper
retainer to guide clearance $62.50

Assemble long block $430 (includes all blueprint work, all clearances set
and verified, piston to valve clearance set and verified, cams degreed in,
proper quench (piston to head) set and verified, just to name a few

Parts:
Piston & ring kit: I would recommend either Wiseco or Ross, depending on
what compression ratio you would like to run. JE pistons are a lot more
expensive.
Wiseco $430
Ross $450

Eagle forged standard stroke crank $750
Eagle H-Beam rods $320
Ferrea 1mm over valves $235
ARP main studs - $62.40
ARP head studs - $95.00
ACL race chamfered rod and main bearings $90
Fel Pro gasket set - $135.00
Cometic MLS head gasket - $95.00
SBI bronze valve guides - $85
Balance shaft bushings $15.00
That is all I can think of at this time. I believe the only thing I can’t
get is the cams and springs,etc

 

[1g_tsi_awd]

Yea, just get it polished and balanced. Also, I believe you can get it knife edged.

 

[dragonov_elite]

can machine shops do this? and would over sized valves change the efficiency of the 2g head?

 

[dragonov_elite]

i ask because the machine shop i am using for this does not have a balancer. so how would they go by balancing the crank shaft.

 

[spoonman]

I agree with 16g tsi awd, just get the crank balanced and polished. The crank will perform a little better when it is balanced but, it is not extremely noticeable. With the bigger valves your engine will be much more efficient getting more air in with the turbo, the upgraded cams would also help a lot with the valves efficiency.

 

[bling5tatus]

^^ they won't be able to balance it if they don't have the correct equipment.

 

[1g_tsi_awd]

And if you get the 2g head ported it is VERY nice. The engineering on a 2g head is much better than a 1g you get better air velocity. Check that option out too.

 

[dragonov_elite]

i have checked that option out and as if right now it would push me over the limit on the size of loan im getting. but it would be freakin awsome. i also want some money left over for dsmlink.

 

[1g_tsi_awd]

Yea, you could do porting at a later point in time, it isn't that crucial.

 

[dragonov_elite]

so how much of a difference would the eagle crank be to the oem crank as of performance after knifing it?

 

[gsxeclipse97]

And if you get the 2g head ported it is VERY nice. The engineering on a 2g head is much better than a 1g you get better air velocity. Check that option out too.

This is true that it is better to a point. once you hit bigger numbers 500+ the 1g head becomes better. Also the cyclone intake manifold provides the high velocity that the 2g have and it also give more tq and quicker spool and better gas mileage.

 

[1g_tsi_awd]

This is true that it is better to a point. once you hit bigger numbers 500+ the 1g head becomes better. Also the cyclone intake manifold provides the high velocity that the 2g have and it also give more tq and quicker spool and better gas mileage.

Yea, but I don't know what his goals are. And cyclone IMs are not easy to get, but ballin if you do. But if the 1g and 2g heads have the same ports the 2g is more efficient.

 

[nightspeed87]

Yea, but I don't know what his goals are. And cyclone IMs are not easy to get, but ballin if you do. But if the 1g and 2g heads have the same ports the 2g is more efficient.

Guess Im ballin then...

1g head > 2g head
1g head < < < < ported 2g head

 

[dragonov_elite]

anyone? 10th question above. after knifing the crank and balancing?

 

[dragonov_elite]

does anyone know the answer? and how much would a knifed stock crank weigh compared to an eagle crank?

 

[paper_clip_boy]

Dude just use the stock Crank, Unless your spinnign your engine up to 9000+ rpm then you really shouldnt need an Eagle Crank.

The Knife edge process that FFWD does removes 7lbs from the crank. Its worth it if you are one of those people that need to have everything.


My suggestion, Either find a 2.4L Crank from a Hyundai or go buy a 100mm Stroke Crank from Eagle, or go all out and buy the Brian Crower 102mm stroker kit which will give you a 2.4L in a 4G63 Block.

If this is going to be a Street/Strip/Track car, ditch your plans of a 2.0L and go with a 2.3L

 

[dragonov_elite]

now those where some good answers.

 

[dsm-onster]

Why good? they were just educated opinions. Does he have a good opinion? MANY prefer a "square" ratio 2.0 over a stroker. You can get more power from revving than you can from the larger displacement. BUT! for the street is why many stroke their setup.

A stock crank can handle more power than your forged piston and rod choices. And MUCH more than any SEMI-streetable turbo you would ever buy. I would focus on engine management instead of bothering w/ the crank.

 

[nightspeed87]

Why good? they were just educated opinions. Does he have a good opinion? MANY prefer a "square" ratio 2.0 over a stroker. You can get more power from revving than you can from the larger displacement. BUT! for the street is why many stroke their setup.

A stock crank can handle more power than your forged piston and rod choices. And MUCH more than any SEMI-streetable turbo you would ever buy. I would focus on engine management instead of bothering w/ the crank.

I agree with this post, stock crank has already proven itself over 600whp
with rod and piston upgrades. Just dont remember the user on here i talked to who was doing that. And if your a street car staying under 8k stroker is best, if your trying to rev higher than 8k 2.0 is better.. ( I just posted this kind of stuff recently .)

 

[dragonov_elite]

no i wasent just thanking him i was thanking the other guys as well for telling me things i did not know before.