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twin-turbos
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- Apr 25, 2002
Originally posted by NosLaser
Personally, I'd start off with an F-body or perhaps a C4 Corvette for stability's sake. You could use an SN95 or Fox body stang, however I wouldn't take one much over 120, let alone the 250!!! PLUS speeds a Twin Turbo F-bod/C4 would be realistically and whole-heartedly capable of. I am going to spill the beans on the project I will have in the works shortly. I'm going to be building up a Twin Turbo 358ci V8. It will more than likely go into a '94 Firehawk I may be purchasing from a friend of mine.
A 358 is a good place to start because it has just about the most ideal rod/stroke ratio you can have. (It's the size they use for Nascar) A 358 is a 400 bock bored .060" over, with a small crank (out of a 283 or something along those lines) You can easily spend 10-12K on the motor alone. All the machine work on the block, a good set of heads with a small combustion chamber for a nice tight quench area. The ideal setup for a turbocharged car is to have a smallish combustion chamber, large valves, and dished pistons. Ideally, you don't want to go over 60cc's of combustion chamber volume. On a turbocharged application, you'll lose burn efficiency. You have a lot of cylinder pressure on a turbo car, this energy is ready to go off; it's so volatile, and the effect you are looking for is to get that energy as close to the spark plug as possible; you don't want it mushrooming out to the outer layers of the combustion chamber. When it does that, and it ignites out in the "outskirts" for lack of a better term, that is detonation. It's hard to explain on the internet, but basically, you want a dished piston to keep the air/fuel mixture in a nice tight ball of energy, and a smaller combustion chamber to keep it there. It is extremely important at this power level to cc all the combustion chambers so that they are the same volume. If you have differences in combustion chamber volume, it's like having differences in compression, and differences in burn efficiency. You also want the tops of the pistons and the combustion chambers to be as perfectly smooth as possible to avoid any hot spots. I would also possibly incorporate a dry-sump oiling system for ease of turbo placement.
You would need a custom intercooler, custom headers, and piping, and properly sized turbo's. I would say Twin 60-1's would make the HP level you seek. Obviously, you would need some suspension upgrades and a new Rear end; but they make rear end conversion kits to a Ford 9 inch for just under 2K for everything.
I would recommend using the SpeedPro engine management system now known as the FAST. Here's why. Since a turbocharged car is not rpm dependant, it is load dependant, you will need some form of map sensor which is the most accurate way of measuring manifold pressure. The MAS on a Corvette for instance is a hot wire setup. The way this works is there is a wire in the MAS that is set to stay at a certain temperature...let's figuratively say 200 degrees fahrenheit because I don't own a Vette and I'm really not sure exactly what the temperature is actually set at. If more air passes over that wire, it will take more energy to keep it at 200 degrees, and if less air passes over that wire, it will take less energy to keep it at 200 degrees. Based on how much energy must be exerted to keep that wire at that set temperature, the ECU adjusts accordingly for fuel. Would you really want to rely on that in a turbocharged vehicle?? This is why I recommend going with the FAST system. It has 4 things that are essential to a turbocharged vehicle. Number one, it has a map sensor which will again, provide your most accurate manifold pressure readings. Number 2, it has a wide band O2 sensor that will save your butt, Number 3, it has a knock sensor which is self explanatory, and number 4, it has a target air/fuel ratio table which coupled with the accuracy of a wideband O2 sensor, and the quickness of an adjustable knock sensor, allows you to keep on top of what's actually going on inside the motor. Let's say you go uphill or something, get on it, the turbo has more load on it due to weight (obviously) and let's say you experience a boost spike, or other phenomenon that causes a lean condition. This system will immediately detect that condition (because it is out of your 'target air/fuel ratio') and it will dump fuel.
Other than that, a good set of rods/pistons, good quality machine work and blueprinting, and you will have a motor that makes hella power, and stays reliable. Let me know if you need any more info.
Regards,
Ok, what you mention is true no doubt. The problems with a car designed to be an N/A are very true. What you want to do will cost a lot of money. It sounds like a great idea. Just too expensive for me. Let me ask you this, how much power will the stock LT-1 engine handle and how much torque can the rear end handle. If worse comes to worse and I can make 600RWHP on pump gas I will settle for an ATI supercharger
with my own fuel upgrades. I guess if I was to make this much power on the ATI I would have to boost to over 15psi's closer to 20psi's and get there racing supercharger as well as there most efficient intercooler. I believe with this kind of boost, compression and heads have to be addresses on the LT-1, correct??
Keep me up to date on your progress, it will sound like a killer, very interesting too, I just don't have the time(love it though) to fab headers and collectors and such.


thats so very true sw's motor is about as stock as craig paisly's motor