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gst98Tfast

10+ Year Contributor
89
0
May 3, 2011
tucson, Arizona
Alright just getting an early idea of what I wanna do with my money I'm getting soon. I thinking either 16g or the t28 turbo what's the advantages and disadvantages for each one and prerequirements besides bov intercooler and piping? For my 2g gst Also rough estimates for the install please if anyone knows it help
 
just do a quick search on the specs for the 16g. I've had one of those "CHINA" 16g on my talon for over 30k and mine is still running strong. installing it is simple also, no need to pay someone else to do it for you even though you have no mechanic skills. its pretty much plug and play.
 
T28 is directly bolt up if im not mistaken. Go with that sleeper look. You can run OEM SMIC

The 16g, more specifically E3 13g is a very efficienct and practical turbo. It can be good up to 350hp and is very responsive. Easy to come by used too. You would need an install kit, drain line, oil feed line, jpipe.
 
just do a quick search on the specs for the 16g. I've had one of those "CHINA" 16g on my talon for over 30k and mine is still running strong. installing it is simple also, no need to pay someone else to do it for you even though you have no mechanic skills. its pretty much plug and play.

The 16g is a direct replacement for you, the op has a 2g so the t28 would be plug and play for him.

Someone please correct me if I'm wrong but you can change out the turbo and leave everything else stock as long as you keep the boost low, I think 15psi max. After that you'll need a bigger fuel pump, injectors and a tuning solution to control them. Dsmlink or something like it.
 
Im running 18psi on my e3 16g right now with no fuel upgrades or link. I guess it might vary between cars. But yes it is a very simple install took like an hour and I hadn't done any work like that before.
 
Im running 18psi on my e3 16g right now with no fuel upgrades or link. I guess it might vary between cars. But yes it is a very simple install took like an hour and I hadn't done any work like that before.

I wouldnt keep running 18psi with out any fuel mods, thats how the last owner of my car fried a ross piston.
 
Im running 18psi on my e3 16g right now with no fuel upgrades or link. I guess it might vary between cars. But yes it is a very simple install took like an hour and I hadn't done any work like that before.

Don't say things like that. Thats not the right way to do it. Just because you are getting away with it doesnt mean the next person will. You know you need fuel mods. Plus, whats the point of getting a 16g when you're only going to run 15-18lbs?
 
Ok sound like I going with the 16g. So what do I need to install or is it a direct bolt on? One guy answered but no confirmation
 
Don't say things like that. Thats not the right way to do it. Just because you are getting away with it doesnt mean the next person will. You know you need fuel mods. Plus, whats the point of getting a 16g when you're only going to run 15-18lbs?

If the 16g is bigger it will make more power at the same boost level than the smaller turbo. Amount of volume the thing flows plays a factor too... not just the pressure its at.
 
If the 16g is bigger it will make more power at the same boost level than the smaller turbo. Amount of volume the thing flows plays a factor too... not just the pressure its at.

That's not the point. His point is more that the turbo isn't as worth while until 22+ PSI. If you were going to run that low of boost you could do a 14b and gain slightly faster spool, lose a bit of power but gain response time and spend much much less money. The T-28 is more expensive than the 14b, spools fairly quick, but it also makes less than the Evo 3 Big 16g.

If you wanted to run more than 18 pounds on a 16g I'd PERSONALLY replace the head gasket as it's condition is unknown unless you recently replaced it. Then I'd upgrade to some ARP head studs to avoid head lift at later boost levels, especially on a 2g where the fastening hardware isn't as resistant to stretching as 1g head studs.

I'm looking to upgrade to a 16g and this is basically what I'd look at if I were you from my research.

Upgrade your clutch to at LEAST a Act 2100 with a 2600 pressure plate
Replace head gasket
Arp head studs
Boost controller
Port your 16g to avoid boost creep especially with upgraded exhaust
Evo 8 560 injectors at least
Wally 190lph fuel pump at the very least, wally 255lph is a bit over kill but costs the same at the expense of a fuel pressure regulator
ECM Link V3, personal preference.
Small FMIC like a Punishment Racing, CX racing, etc.
If you went with a FMIC I personally would upgrade to a better radiator with GOOD high CFM slim fans and shroud. Cheap ebay fans are WORSE than stock fans most of the time.
Boost gauge if you don't already have one
Wideband is extremely important as well to make sure you are seeing proper air fuel ratios.
Upgrade to better lubrication than syncromesh or redline MTX as they become to thin for the increased torque. Some people get away with it and some end up destroying gears, a few extra bucks does not seem too much to ask for me.

This isn't everything but it's a good start. If you don't at least do this, a 16g is almost worthless.

I'm sure people will argue but those guys who do are the same ones who always bi*** about breaking shit.
 
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