Which block to build?

[90-GST]

Hey guys i just recently purchased a gsx. Its a 95 and it came with ALOT of parts. Im building the motor i have the money ready. This will be my second time building a 4g63.

I have 2 questions tho. It came with a 4g63 non turbo block, im reading that the only difference is that the oil squirters arent there wich i can tell, the motor has about 140k miles but was BEAT to hell. The crank has a ton of play when its in the block. The motor in the car has 200k miles and is a 7 bolt. I have herd many storys about fixing crank walk and it coming back but i dont believe it. If you do it right you should be fine considering crank walk is thrust bearing failure. So...

1. Build the 6 bolt or the 7 bolt?

2. Besides the oil squirters, the pistons, and rods are there Any differences in 4g63 and 4g63t?

Thanks alot!!!

 

[toofast82]

I'm pretty sure you need to drill/tap for the Knock Sensor with the n/t block. Pretty sure the rods are the same.
I would probably just build the 7bolt if you're looking for a street build under 450whp.
The 2g oil squirters clogging are one of the things that have been linked to cause "crankwalk"
It is plenty possible to build a stout 7bolt that won't have crank play issues
You said it had 200k, but you never said if its condition?

 

[90-GST]

I'm pretty sure you need to drill/tap for the Knock Sensor with the n/t block. Pretty sure the rods are the same.
I would probably just build the 7bolt if you're looking for a street build under 450whp.
The 2g oil squirters clogging are one of the things that have been linked to cause "crankwalk"
It is plenty possible to build a stout 7bolt that won't have crank play issues
You said it had 200k, but you never said if its condition?

Im going with a Weisco/Manly setup so it wont matter if i have the oil squirters or not. 450s really alll im gonna look for out of it. FP Reds coming at the end of summer. So ill be around 400.

Im not sure of the condition its still in the car. The car runs and drives tho with a ton of blow by. But its not showing any signs of walk considering it has a act 2600 in it

 

[Aznspice27]

I would say build the 7bolt. I was considering swapping in a JDM 6bolt but decided against it. the 7bolt after rebuild seems to be a stronger block, even with the crankwalk issues.

 

[90-GST]

would you remove the oil squirters?

 

[Aznspice27]

me personally, no.

 

[Aznspice27]

with a 7bolt even if you were to encounter problems such as CW it wouldnt be the end of the world. just replacing the rods and mains will fix it... 7bolts can take the abuse..

 

[Jhusey]

U should go for a 7bolt swap from a 99 eclipse.

First, easy swap, just bolt on.

Second, the block have a different bearings desing which probabilies for do crankwalk are less in comparison for a 95-98 blocks.

Third, in a 6 bolt swap on 2g, u have to modify the oil pump (search for a thread that says "6 bolt on swaps on 2g).

Here in peru my friend have 571whp on his 90 eagle talon 6 bolt without problems.

 

[90-GST]

me personally, no.

Alright cool. i didnt do that on my first 7 bolt wich is running amazing so i didnt want to do another thing here. We had a problem with oil pressure in the first one by doing the bsek but we got it taken care of and everythings a ok now.

Im not gonna get a new 7 bolt. Crankwalk is thrust bearing failure. Its harder to do that then to pop off the oil pan and main caps and start throwing bearings in if i have to!

This time around since im going with an awd platform im gonna bump the compression up to 9:1. And i want to get the rotating assembly balenced so i can spin it a little higher! I was looking at knife edging but the price is outragous for 7 lbs of rotating mass!