where to lift motor from if you don't have those handy brackets

[weith1111]

Over the years my motor has gotten more and more naked each time I've worked on it, and now that I'm pulling a perfectly functioning motor and don't have the benefit of the head gone, what's the safest way to pull this puppy with no brackets?

I was planning on using the PS bracket and motor mount or something by the AC on the drivers side, but where to attach the chains on the passenger side? One chain on the intake mani and one on the exhaust mani? With the tranny coming out too it doesn't seem like that would be a functional balance.

I want to attach all 4 chains to the block so the tranny can come right off and the engine stand can jump right in it's place.

Picture something like the below (sweet setup by the way ksalas). Where would you pull this thing from and feel safe?

 

[RoasT BeeF]

I assume you know where the factory lift brackets sit.

I was in the same boat as you last weekend. I got a short 5-6" peice of chain and bolted one end to the top right throttle body to intake mani bolt and the other end to the cas stud. Just like where the factory lift bracket would be. I then used the front stud right above the PS and put a fat heavy washer on and then 2 nuts on the stud after that. This was able to support the entire assembled engine including trans and turbo.

Let me know if that makes sense.

 

[RoasT BeeF]

Here is a pic to help. The yellow is where you would mount the small peice of chain and it will basically act as the stock lift bracket would. The stud circled in yellow is where I mounted the end of the actual lift chain using the big washer and 2 nuts. Then of course the green represents the chain used for lifting.

 

[weith1111]

I think it does. So you lifted from just 2 points?

I like the recreation of the bracket with a chain. I was worried a single TB bolt wouldn't hold, and using a CAS bolt by itself had me picturing the bolt ripping out, mangling the whole area and costing me a decent "stage II" head.

Good stuff. I have a leveler too so that should help.

 

[RoasT BeeF]

Yeah just those two points are all I used to remove the old and install the new engine. It was able to support tranny and all just fine and allows you to pull the tranny while its on the cherry picker so you can bolt the stand mount up.

 

[weith1111]

I can dig it. Anything goes wrong I'm holding you personally accountable.


Glad I couldn't think to just fab up some temp brackets with chain. Duh!

Brain = mush, apparently. Well that's what you guys are here for!

 

[RoasT BeeF]

Yeah. Now that I think about it you could probably do the same exact thing on the other side and attach a small chain to both of those studs on the motor mount instead of just using one...

Just make sure you get the chain as far back on that cas stud as possible so its a little stronger. Dont want to have all the weight way out on the end of that thing.

 

[fourreGsixty3]

I pulled my engine and tranny from the factory brackets which are basicly where roast beef hooked up, and everything was fine (balance wise), it tipped a little towards the tranny side, but not much, and that kind of helped since we had to push the tranny down more to get the motor past where the fender is, it was just catching on the oil pan. Good luck Andy,

Dustin

 

[weith1111]

I pulled my engine and tranny from the factory brackets which are basicly where roast beef hooked up, and everything was fine (balance wise), it tipped a little towards the tranny side, but not much, and that kind of helped since we had to push the tranny down more to get the motor past where the fender is, it was just catching on the oil pan. Good luck Andy,

Dustin

Note point of thread...I ain't got no brackets buddy!

Last time I didn't have brackets either, but the head was off so I just used some ARP's into the block, that was pretty safe.

 

[fourreGsixty3]

I know the topic of the thread Andy, I figured I would just mention that there were no balance issues with my pull, because roast beef pulled from similar area as where my stock brackets are. Just thought I would post it to give you some reasurrance that there shouldn't be any balance issues pulling from the spots beef depicted with the tranny still connected.

Dustin

 

[weith1111]

Gotcha Dustin.

I appreciate the vote of confidence!

 

[19Eclipse90]

Without the transmission bolted up, you shouldn't need a leveler. That's my helpful input.

 

[1stGenRocks]

i put the chain around the big intake mani stud on the tb end of the manifold flange. you have to stick a rag between the chain and valve cover though so it doesnt get scratched

 

[Silverspy]

Loop around driverside motor mount....and look under tranny mount. Make the tranny chain a foot longer or so and it will automatically set up so you can just lift it out.

 

[GVR4592]

You guys that used the throttle body bolt as a lifting point, did you have the transmission connected to the engine when you did that?

 

[project_tsi]

i put the chain around the big intake mani stud on the tb end of the manifold flange. you have to stick a rag between the chain and valve cover though so it doesnt get scratched

I also do the same. I hook up to the motor mount stud like its already shown in the pic, and on the tranny side of the motor, I remove the top 14mm nut on the intake mani. You may need a thinner chain to do so. I put the chain over the stud, and put a large washer and the nut back on. Works great everytime, just did it last saturday.

Also, I'm glad to see that the T-body bolts worked for you this time, but I would never, ever hook it to one of the T-body bolts. IMO the bolts/studs are too thin, and could easily bend, or mess up the threads in the intake mani.

 

[fourreGsixty3]

Andy if you have access to a 4 point lift you will like pulling the engine with that. I just put my engine back into my car, I know your taking yours out, but its the same principal to it as putting it in. I liked this way because there wasnt any possibility of the tranny scratching the fender wall inside the engine bay. I just put the car up on the lift set the engine on 2 jacks and lowered the car around it. You have to pull the center cross member bar that has the front MM, and all you have to do is just move the engine 6 inches forward so the rear MM will clear the cross bar that goes perpendicular with the front wheels. Also I like this way because you just take the 2 17mm bolts that connect the tranny to the tranny mount, no more removing the tire, and hard brake line to get the 4 14mm bolts out that bolt the tranny mount into the fender wall. Just my .02, this is the way I will be doing it when I paint the entire car (engine bay included) so that I have very little chance of scratching up the paint.

Dustin