The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

when i crank it over it seems to crank slow

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

gscheaffer

Probationary Member
23
0
Mar 4, 2009
mount joy, Pennsylvania
I picked up a 1990 galant gsx a week ago in a non running form. I was told that it lost compression. My question is that when i crank it over it seems to crank slow. The started was bad so i replaced it along with the plugs. It now cranks a little better. when i checked the spark one has a little bit of blue spark and another had a yellowish orange spark. What could i be looking at? I was told that it was getting 90-100psi of compression in all four cylinders.
 
When i purchased the car the previous owner told me that it lost compression.

So you believe him?

I bought a Fiero for only $300 because it had a broken crankshaft turns out it was the flexplate.

I got a 76 Gremlin for free because it had no brakes. All I found wrong was the driver window off track.

I know someone who got a great deal on a non-running Mustang; he had to push the fuel pump reset button in the trunk.

I got a Honda Accord for $100. It had too much oil, and a few minor leaks. They thought the engine was shot.

I could go on...

My point is, people regularly sell cars because they need repairs that are beyond their ability to diagnose, and it's against their religion to get a professional opinion.

I can see why he would experience low compression, if he did his compression test with a dead battery too.
 
OK:
Timing marks are all good
removed all accesories belts still cranks very slow
neighbor had a battery jumper thing and we were around 30 volts, car cranked normal but wouldn't fire up. Didnt even sound like it was trying.
 
Wow 30V is too high! The car has sensitive electronics. About how hard is it to turn over? Can you turn it with a stubby wratchet, or does it require more leverage that that? (with the plugs out)

With a charged battery, have you tried a compression test yourself? Also with a charged battery, does it have a good spark?
 
VERY HARD with a half inch bar. I just dont understand why it wont even try and start after we got it to crank normal
 
Well i had my grandfather look at it and i never checked it but when i put it in gear and hold the clutch in and crank it the car moves. This could be the cause of the slow cranking. tomorrow we will be taking it his garage and tear the tranny out and check it.
 
disregaurd the last post i made, alls i had to do was pump the clutch a few times to get the fluid back in it. Doesn't move anymore while in gear.
 
Well i recieved the new motor today. I do have some set-back tdue to some minor shipping damage. One question i have is...

It is a motor tuned my AMG with cyclone intake, is there any software/chip that i can get for this?
 
There are a couple different types of Cyclone manifold. Ones a dual runner intake that switches modes with a vacuum operated valve, and one is basically a standard manifold with the word Cyclone (among other things) cast into the top.

If you have the dual runner job, you probably want to hook it up so it works. I haven't ever done it myself, but there are a few threads out there that describe using ECMlink's nitrous controls to switch on a vacuum solenoid above the appropriate RPM. Others have said "Just hook it to a boost source" but I'm not too sure about that either. I do know the original dual runner setup used some kind of canister shaped check valve thing, and I believe an electric vacuum solenoid.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top