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What setup

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99gsthdwcc

Probationary Member
27
0
Jan 25, 2005
Cincinnati, Ohio
I have a 99 gst with 60k, the internals are still stock but i have already redone the intercooler setup with a greddy front mount(not the huge one but the smaller one) and all dejon tool piping with a hks ss bov setup to recycle. i choose to get an adjustable wastgate acutator to up the boost a little bit and got a a new stock t25 from a friend. Also new plugs and wires did a tune up with new belts and some new gaskets and changed all the fluids. Picked up a new intake and removed the BCS restricker. Full 2.5 inch exhaust, including matching 2.5 downpipe with high flow cat. After going with that setup for about 6 months I want more!!!! my next steps were a new fuel pump with new injectors, new turbo manifold, and a new turbo. The question is what is the best combination of the three to run on stock internals to get a good 1/4 times without blowin it up. Which fuel pump/injectors combined with which turbo is the best to run?
 
get a 255lph fuel pump, fuel ragulater, 650cc fuel injeters, GReddy E-manage, and 20g miut/ garret tubo and thats good for 400whp.

you dont want to go over 400whp or your motor will kick the bucket

you like the GReddy E-manage because it will take the tuning one step farther then the afc.
you can do your igntshion timing as we as your fuel trim and the around 360bucks
 
If i were you i would go with a more modest setup. A 190lph fuel pump (to save cash by not having to buy a fuel pressure regulator and guage), 550 injectors and ecu+. Plenty to get you into the 12 second range, and inexpensive. It sounds like you dont want to go to far so why spend a ton of money? Here goes why.

1. 190 walbro fuel pump is 100 bucks, good part, save the 200 bucks for afpr and guage

2. evo 16g will run you around 550, you will need a j-pipe and install kit leaving you at a total of 700 bucks, but install parts are going to be needed for almost all turbos, keep in mind that power isnt everything, 16gs are proven to provide good 1/4 mile runs and are very streetable and easily replaced if you have a problem.

3. 550cc injectors is good for a 12 second pass, and are easily tunable on all widely used setups, you could also opt for 650cc if you want a little more.

4. ECU+, in my opinion highly overlooked, sold on machv's website, kindof a mix between safc and dsmlink. Great tunability at a good price. Your looking at 1000 plus labtop for a full standalone.. ouch? for what? a decent 1/4 mile time.. way overkill. DSMlink will cost you 500 plus eprom ecu (easily 200 bucks) then you have to send it off to get it socketed ugh and your going to need a labtop, plus if your car ever has its battery run dead, its time to reset up the entire tune. Well ECU+ is good as its a full featured datalogger and tuning system, plug and play access, you can use your ecu and retains settings even if battery goes dead.. meaning you can own a labtop, or you can just borrow one or have a shop tune it for you and forget about it. 550 shipped to your door, ecu+ is done. However, there is something to be said for dsmlinks well known system and many users that can provide detailed tuning help. Anyhow, heres the basic breakdown

100(fuel pump)+250(550 or 650 injectors)+700(evo 16g) +550(ECU+)
grand total= $1,600
now you can opt to change a few things here, and used parts could cut this as low as 1,250 or so. Probably the part that i put up there that will be most debated is the ecu+, well sub in the price for an ecu minimum and maybe a labtop into the equation if you prefer dsmlink and that is still a good option i think.

The above setup is a good equation for a daily driver who is on a limited budget and would like to keep their car as a reliable daily driver with a respectable 1/4 mile time. I'd also get a clutch now that i think of it though.
 
that sounds cool too! i forgot to add that you may wanta look at a 3" maf and a maf translater.

but the world is yours dude. its all good anyway you go. aslong as you have fuel air and timeing. that the three mein points to go buy then you are looking at a computer
 
that sounds cool too! i forgot to add that you may wanta look at a 3" maf and a maf translater.

but the world is yours dude. its all good anyway you go. aslong as you have fuel air and timeing. that the three mein points to go buy then you are looking at a computer

If he is running the E316G then the stock 2G MAF is plenty, especially if he is going to be using a SAFC or some sort of piggyback fuel management.
 
If he is running the E316G then the stock 2G MAF is plenty, especially if he is going to be using a SAFC or some sort of piggyback fuel management.


but the gm maf is more ackrit and will pay off by giving him a nicer tune and then he can let his bov blow in the amispher. its nicer that way so you can tell if its working the right way.



and i guess the greedy E manage bc will het you find tune the car and contol the e manage piggyback system. so you dont have to have a laptop with you when your racing, you just need a laptop when your seting it up for the first time to map fuel maps and so on.

go to the site and see. and even go too the uthers and pick what you like best.
 
thanks for the help fellas,
I will probably run the big 16g, with a 190pump and 550injectors. Dont know if i will run the gm maf bypass, i have always heard that recirculating was the best set up. But thanks for all the help
 
I would get EVO16g, with a 190pump, evo injectors and a safc. Tried and true setup. can be found cheap and will yield good performance if its setup right.
 
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