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what is the cheapest way to get 250whp on a 6 bolt

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Ok, you hear honda's buzzing and vtec hittin' and the noise that reverberates out of the intake?
Think of NA power like that. To get power NA you need rev's. Do you really want to rev your car to the nuts to get any power out of it?
 
To get anywhere near 250whp on an N/A setup you will need to run a good amount of compression(10:1+), proper cams, head work,etc. Plus you are going to still need fuel components like something to tune, pump, injectors, etc.
If I were doing an N/A setup, I'd be plenty satisfied with ~200whp, which will still be somewhat difficult to achieve with what i've already mentioned
In my opinion to get to ~250whp+, you are probably going to need some serious parts like a "butchered" crank, maybe aluminum rods. You get the point, it will cost much more$$ to achieve your goal naturally aspirated then to get a turbo setup and make twice the power.
If this is your goal and it has to be N/A, good luck!
 
This is actually of some interest to me. I can only go based of of what I know on the force fed 4G63's, but I may have some insight for you.

I have seen soom of the most efficient 4G63t engines make between 12 and 17 whp/psia at the peak power RPM. For example, some of the mid 8's drag cars run between 40 and 50 psi of boost or more. Lets say the are runing 45psi.

45psi (boost) + 14.7 psi (standard atmospheric pressure) = 59.7psia (absolute pressure)

Lets say that the engine at peak power RPM makes 13.5 whp/psia.

13.5 whp/psia * 59.7 psia = 805.95 whp.

If you assume that the engine maintains this same relationship at the said RPM, the Naturally Aspirated (NA) engine would make:

13.5 whp/psia * 14.7 psia = 198.45 whp.

Now, knowing that valve overlap requirements for NA vs FI engines differ, and that various other things can be optimized between setups, I would say that it is possible to make somewhere around 250 whp with a NA 4G63.

I think you would be looking at a high reving 2.0L (10.5k rpm +) or a 2.3L that you rev above 9k (which most people are not willing to do). You would need light internals which should not be too hard since you are not putting that much power through them, and you would need a highly optimized cylinder head to match your bottom end configuration and RPM. The cams would need to be big and timed correctly.

It honestly may be easier than that, but I think that it will take significant work to make it happen. Good Luck!
 
ill be happy with anything over 200 really i have no idea how many hp i can achieve but i know im gonna do my best to get it up past 200 the best i can. I really have no budget or time limit so it doesnt matter whats its going to take. it just might be awhile before i get to drive the thing, but i did buy the car with bent valves so its just another project. i plan on getting a good awd tsi to DD as soon as i find one that doesnt need anything and is in my price range. but those arent exactly at every car lot.
 
i really want to just get as much power as i can without a turbo i know 250 is kinda high for a n/a but still if i built the motor up first and get it goin good then later in life maybe add a turbo but id rather have a good n/a and then save up for a good awd tsi

It wouldn't be smart to build your car to be NA then turbo it. Your compression ratio will be too high and impossible to keep knock down.
 
get yourself a 6bolt 4g64 engine, put a 1g head on it, use stock 4g64 pistons, get a good intake manifold, cams,injectors, tuning software,and retard the timing a little then you have a high compression stroker for cheap.
 
250whp is possible, it had been done but the streetability is not what you want. 250bhp(~200whp) is more attainable mostly with a 4G64 DOHC. The highest production NA hp for a 4G63 is 170 and in Germany, 200hp with I/H/E tune for the track.
 
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