What is the best street disk?

[MindBlowin03]

Swapping things out shortly and Im deciding which street disk to buy. It will be combined with an ACT 2900 pressure plate.

 

[blizz99]

I'm a huge fan of the South Bend TZ/FE. That's what I'm using and has been my favorite. Slip it like a full face, handles torque like a puck!

 

[hotrodssnova]

Interesting, because I will be doing the same thing. Mines a dd, so manners will matter. I am also sporting the stiff act 2900 pp. I est around 350 hp and 300 tq. The exedy I had was slipping thru boost at about 22 psi. The 2900 pp fixed that,but, the disk is now worn out. It aappears to be a stock replacement disk. I was leaning towards the act pn 3000303. I believe its considered the street disk. Looks to have reduced marcel?

 

[MindBlowin03]

That's kevlar correct? Any idea if it holds well on hot laps? I've heard a kevlar disk needs cooldown time between runs.

 

[blizz99]

It'll hold as long as you're not doing back to back to back runs.

 

[MindBlowin03]

I just pulled my 2600/street disk setup. Held 524 lb/ft pretty good but slipped occasionally. I definitely need to buy a new disk and I am debating on a new pressure plate(2900) as well. Needs to be very streetable because that is most of my driving. When I do race, usually once a year, I pretty much hot lap the car for 3 hours.

 

[hotrodssnova]

That's kevlar correct? Any idea if it holds well on hot laps? I've heard a kevlar disk needs cooldown time between runs.

I believe it is organic.

 

[ZenkaiRacerDsM]

The tz-fe is kevlar and feramic. No it will not hold up to hot lapping. It will however never glaze like an organic. So when it's over heated, let it cool, and then race.

If you're hot lapping for 3 hours you will need a puck disc. With that much torque and the hot lapping requirements I see no other options.

Edit: I don't know if the ACT street disc is just an organic disc. If so, and you said it held up ok, you could run a carbon kevlar disc. Which would feel the same as the organic and have a little more friction coefficient for more power then an organic. It can still glaze like an organic if it gets too hot though. I would recommend competition clutch for one of these discs if you decide to go this route.

 

[hotrodssnova]

I was talking about the act street disk The ceramic need to cool off between runs, especially if you run an aluminum flywheel.....for a dd....I have no information.

 

[ZenkaiRacerDsM]

The ceramic/metallic pretty much never needs to cool off. Your pressure plate and flywheel will fail before that disc due to heat.

 

[twicks69]

For a daily driver, I prefer a full Kevlar or dual friction Kevlar/Feramic or Kevlar/Ceramic disk. If it is going to be seeing a lot of abuse, I go straight to full Ceramic.

Any Kevlar friction material will require cool down between passes, and they benefit from a media blasted pressure plate (80/120-grit aluminum oxide is what I use) to increase the surface bedding area so that the Kevlar material can bed itself into the metal surface. A super smooth friction surface will result in very little break-in of the Kevlar material and will be considerably more susceptible glazing and clutch slippage. It will also be more difficult to break the disk back in with normal driving whereas the media blasted friction surface does a better job at bedding in faster. If you are using a Fidanza flywheel or equivilant 2-piece aluminum flywheel with replaceable carbon steel friction surface, be very careful of your temperatures as you can easily warp the friction surface from excessive launching or not enough cooldown. You can also have issues with this flywheel in conjunction with a Feramic (FE-series) friction material against it. If the Feramic material (Iron metallic matrix) is overheated on a chromoly flywheel or high carbon steel friction surface it has the potential of friction welding the clutch disk to the flywheel. It is rare, but it can happen either due to a clutch with improper adjustment or excessive stop/go clutch slipping or extremely heavy clutch slipping at the track.

The Kevlar has a nice temperature range and is the most streetable friction material in comparison to Feramic, Ceramic, and Sintered Iron while having a higher temperature range and considerably better longevity than an Organic or Carbon Organic or Fibertuff friction material. If you push Kevlar to its temperature or friction limits and it slips, it will glaze and require cool down and time to break the clutch disk friction material back in. It is common to feel a change in pedal engagement when this occurs, and when it cools down it goes back to normal pedal engagement.

The Feramic has a higher temperature range and higher coefficient of friction but is normally paired with Organic or Kevlar friction materials on the pressure plate side to have better temperature resistance to clutch slippage for driving. It has a good wear characteristic to it, and relatively smooth engagement on gentle driving, yet can grab hard when you dump the clutch. If you overheat the Feramic material you have the potential of friction welding the disk to your flywheel. Overall, I always liked this material for daily driving usage on a high power car. I only stepped away from selling more of these clutches due to 1 customer that friction welded his clutch to a new Fidanza flywheel and wrecked his parts from improper adjustment. Because of this, I started doing Kevlar/Ceramic disks which ended up having better qualities to it.

The Ceramic material is a very fun material with a high temperature range, good wear characteristics, relatively smooth engagement yet crisp with clutch dumps and it teams up great with Kevlar on the pressure plate side of the clutch disk in dual friction mode. The TZ/B Kevlar/Ceramic disk was put together to have a better temperature range than the TZ/FE Kevlar/Feramic and O/FE Organic/Feramic disks and no potential of friction welding surfaces together. As a single friction disk (all ceramic on both sides of disk), it is still damn smooth in comparison to a 6-puck, and has a better temperature range than the Kevlar material therefore eliminating the potential for clutch slippage from Kevlar glazing or overheating.

There are several other friction materials on the market, but these are my high volume ones that are used by most people not using organic street disks.

 

[blizz99]

What flywheel do you recommend with the TZ/FE?

 

[twicks69]

What flywheel do you recommend with the TZ/FE?

I have had best luck with Competition Clutch, ACT Streetlite and OEM stock flywheels. Again, it can be run with a Fidanza or ACT, you just have to be careful to not overheat the shit out of the clutch disk.