What is different between 4g63-t vs. 4g63 N/A? Can build an N/a for turbo?

[swing lo]

I found this 4g63 suprizingly here in germany with everthing, but it was N/a. My question is can i build that motor for low compression, and slap it in my awd. What do i need to change over for that motor to work in my car? Is it worth it?

The engine n tranny is 75 buck's, and the motor is running.

 

[91TSi FWD]

Their is a lot of work to be done to turbocharge it if you want to do it proporly. Trust me, you don't just bolt a turbo and intercooler on. you need the exhaust manifold, O2 housing, a bigger exhaust, different pistons if you want to run boost higher than 7-9psi, injectors and resistor pack...the list goes on and on.

EDIT: I found this you can read through, there is probably more out their on N/t to turbo comparisons.
http://www.angelfire.com/il2/freestyle/turboconversion.html

 

[swing lo]

Thank's but i knew all that, I wanted to buiild it and then swap my parts on to that motor. My only concern is the knock sensor. Does the N/A\
have one?

 

[mavisky]

i see you want to build the bottom end of the nt 4g63 and install it in your awd.

you can do this. the only thing you'll need is new rods and pistons. the knock sensor will go behind a different cylinder but will work fine in that position. many people have done this exact same thing. but beware the cams, they don't have as much duration as the turbo cams.

 

[swing lo]

What i plan to do is either buy mitsubishi parts, or the mach V rebuild kit, and go for 400awhp which should throw my daily driver into the 11's.

What does anyone think about the mach v REBUILD KIT?

I know with a fresh motor and my 50 trim, i can hit 11's all day with the proper tune. and that's all i need for right now.

 

[Defiant]

Half-assed projects somehow always turn out half-assed. Get the right engine, spend what it costs, and save money by doing it right.

 

[mavisky]

Originally posted by swing lo
What i plan to do is either buy mitsubishi parts, or the mach V rebuild kit, and go for 400awhp which should throw my daily driver into the 11's.

What does anyone think about the mach v REBUILD KIT?

I know with a fresh motor and my 50 trim, i can hit 11's all day with the proper tune. and that's all i need for right now.

i'd go all mitsubishi if you do it. another option is to order up some forged pistons at around 8.5:1 and use the nt 6 bolt rods since the rods and the crank are identical to the turbo parts, only the pistons are different. better spool up and of course everyone knows how strong the stock 6 bolt bottom end is. i'd use mitsubishi or clevite bearings for it all and you've got a damned reliable setup.

 

[swing lo]

Originally posted by Defiant
Half-assed projects somehow always turn out half-assed. Get the right engine, spend what it costs, and save money by doing it right.

Please elaborate a little more for me buddy. What is so half assed about
building a motor the right way?

 

[SoSprayMe]

Originally posted by swing lo
Please elaborate a little more for me buddy. What is so half assed about
building a motor the right way?

I think what is so half-assed about it is you building the motor the right way. Do you have a lot of experience building motors? The money you invest in the parts, the labor, and the headache of building it. You could have easily dished out a little extra dough and REALLY had the job done right. Stage 1 SBR or Buschur block for example.

Good luck,

 

[dsmturboawd]

Originally posted by swing lo
What does anyone think about the mach v REBUILD KIT?

if you buy all OEM parts seperatly, its cheaper than the machv kit. oem>machv kit.

as far as the rods, i dont believe he needs new ones as they are the same. he's really just turbo pistons away from kinda having a turbo motor (aside from minor differences, cams oil squirters, etc).

 

[ecr1055]

this is what I would do if I were you.
use your non turbo block and head (assuming the block is 6 bolt)
buy some ross or weisco pistons (street car 400hp goal go 9:0:1 c/r)
1g big rods or eagle rods (the nice thing w/ eagle is you have the added security of having strong ass rods good for 600hp if you want to go bigger at a later date or spray)
use mitsu oem bearing (other places use clevite only cause they are cheaper but clevites are good too)
remove the balance shafts
buy some arps and try a mitsu metal head gasket or mitsu oem w/ copper spray
deck the head and block
rebuild the head at least while it is off (usually about 170$ for a plaining job, cleaned, valve stem seals and cam seals)
Throw away the non turbo cams (I'll sell u 5spd turbo 1g cams for 50$ if you want w/ gears) or go w/ some hks's
and you should be set with your motor
all new timing shit water pump belts etc stupid stuff
I would suggest buying an act xact fly and centerforce 2500 clutch cause they are on sale now. Do it while the trans is out.
those are my basic suggestions-good luck man.

 

[mavisky]

Originally posted by SoSprayMe
I think what is so half-assed about it is you building the motor the right way. Do you have a lot of experience building motors? The money you invest in the parts, the labor, and the headache of building it. You could have easily dished out a little extra dough and REALLY had the job done right. Stage 1 SBR or Buschur block for example.

Good luck,

i've never built a single engine myself but tore mine down this summer and completely rebuilt it including a bs elimination, new main and rod bearings, and new rings. no leaks and perfect oil pressure 3000 miles afterwards i'm proud. engine has no vibrations and no odd noises. i believe its totally do-able so long as you take your time and keep everything completely spotless the entire way and use good parts and assembly lube.

total cost for my rebuild including an entire new gasket set, bs elimination parts, rod and main bearings all from mitsubishi - $550
find me a pre-built shortblock anywhere for that price.

 

[fasteclipse1992]

ok if its a n/t block your rebuilding to a turbo block specs, the n/t block dont have the oil squirters like a turbo block. so if you want to build it right asa turbo engine you will need to drill and tap for the oil squirters

 

[ecr1055]

this is what I would do if I were you.
use your non turbo block and head (assuming the block is 6 bolt)
buy some ross or weisco pistons (street car 400hp goal go 9:0:1 c/r)
1g big rods or eagle rods (the nice thing w/ eagle is you have the added security of having strong ass rods good for 600hp if you want to go bigger at a later date or spray)
use mitsu oem bearing (other places use clevite only cause they are cheaper but clevites are good too)
remove the balance shafts
buy some arps and try a mitsu metal head gasket or mitsu oem w/ copper spray
deck the head and block
rebuild the head at least while it is off (usually about 170$ for a plaining job, cleaned, valve stem seals and cam seals)
Throw away the non turbo cams (I'll sell u 5spd turbo 1g cams for 50$ if you want w/ gears) or go w/ some hks's
and you should be set with your motor
all new timing shit water pump belts etc stupid stuff
I would suggest buying an act xact fly and centerforce 2500 clutch cause they are on sale now. Do it while the trans is out.
those are my basic suggestions-good luck man.

 

[swing lo]

Originally posted by SoSprayMe
I think what is so half-assed about it is you building the motor the right way. Do you have a lot of experience building motors? The money you invest in the parts, the labor, and the headache of building it. You could have easily dished out a little extra dough and REALLY had the job done right. Stage 1 SBR or Buschur block for example.

Good luck,

I have built 2(jdm primera) sr20de's, and 3(bluebird) sr20det's from the ground up. My motor building skills are not the issue here. I can do everything myself except the machining, balancing, and blueprinting. I'm hardcore nissan, but since i now have a dsm now, and a 50 trim on a 160k motor, Shit's gonna break regardless of tuning. I alway's do thing's the right way. I just need to know what are the differences between the two block's since ive never opened a 4g63 before. And all this half-ass talk is nonsense. I never implied that i was going to purchase the mach-v kit. I was looking for people with experience on that kit. As of right now i'm just gonna race port, and fully build the head with performance product's, but do a stock rebuild on the bottom end.

This is the question people...............Does the n/a block have a knock sensor, and what's the procedure for installing turbo block oil squirter's if that's really needed.

Thank's for all the imput so far though.

And #### buying a sbr or buscher block I can have the stock block shot-peened or cryo-dipped for free. I don't need to buy some one elses product when I have the asset's to do it my self for half- if not any of the cost my damnself.

 

[Rick@AP]

Honestly all I use for the built motors that I build for people start with N/A blocks. You DON'T need piston squirters. Just build the block like you would a normal 4g63T block. You can mount the knock sensor in a alt. location.

Do a search on this site using my screen name and "NA block". I've written a few times on the subject of using the NA block.

 

[swing lo]

Thanks for that info............................

 

[fivestardsm]

Originally posted by Rick@AP
You can mount the knock sensor in a alt. location.

Correct me if i am wrong, and only if i'm wrong, but i did the n/t engine to a turbo swap for a friend who could only find a n/t for the time, and the n/t block had the boss for the knock sensor.

Steve.

 

[mavisky]

Originally posted by fivestardsm
Correct me if i am wrong, and only if i'm wrong, but i did the n/t engine to a turbo swap for a friend who could only find a n/t for the time, and the n/t block had the boss for the knock sensor.

Steve.

what he means is connected to what you noticed. the nt block does have a boss for the knock sensor, but it is behind the cylinder next to the one that the turbo block is setup for. so it's technically an "alternate location", at least i believe that's what he was talking about when he said that.

 

[fivestardsm]

Cool I just wanted to make sure that my mind wasn't slipping.

Steve.