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What I got done on my motor tonight with pics

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Purolator for 1g 6 bolt is PL10193. Sick that I know that. Read in vfaq, or dsm.org back in the day, that they were the best. I've now got 227,000 on my tsi, I guess that is good enough proof for me.
 
ive used k&n performance gold filters they are 7 bucks and i have never had a issue w/ them.. they have a nice 1inch nut on the end so you can take em off wiht just about any wrench.

hmm i have to pull my oil pan soon i may put a scraper on because a hp engine needs to rev faster.. plus its protection.
 
damn i wish my motor looked that good...in due time...mad props man, the scraper looks good
 
Thanks for all your comments. I have taken my time with this now its winter so I am in no hurry to get it done really but I am slowly getting there. I got the head back and now on. here are some more pics.
 

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Uhh ....... I am sure that crank scraper will help keep a little more oil in the pan ..... but. It appears from the pictures that it is going to have to much clearance from the crank It will deffinetly keep oil from coming back up very easy .... but should the tolerances there be closer ?
 
Thats the way I recived it. If it was perfect It would funtion best about 1/16 away from the rotating assembly. This scraper is a prodution piece so there is more tolerance. The best I could do is get it equal distance from everything. Its better than not having one.
 
Hi,

Nice setup. I am jealous. You are about to finish up, while I am just starting. Is this a standard 6 bolt or is it stroked?
Also thanks for the info about the crank scraper. I learned something new again.
And finally, what about fram filters on different cars. I use it on my 00 town and country for the last 25k miles. No problem so far. I also use it on my 2g , but I only have 8k miles on that one. So, I can't really tell. I will try a different filter on my new setup, a 4g64 rebuild block.
Congrats on your work!

Sven
 
TSIfreek said:
Thanks for all your comments. I have taken my time with this now its winter so I am in no hurry to get it done really but I am slowly getting there. I got the head back and now on. here are some more pics.

Kris,
I was wondering about your .054" HP Cometic HG... I used the standard, non-HP .054", 85.5mm bore HG (Part #C4233) on my rebuild about 2 months ago now. -It looked identical to the one in your pic. -I thought that the HP vesions came with some sort of extra sealing rings around the piston bores. (???)

Nice Work!
 
The rings are located in the center of the gasket between the 2 thinnner pieses of steel on the HP.
 
ive used k&n performance gold filters they are 7 bucks and i have never had a issue w/ them.. they have a nice 1inch nut on the end so you can take em off wiht just about any wrench.
Just about any wrench that is 1"........... :D
 
well you could use a open end wrench, or a box end wrench, or a racheting box end wrench, or a cressant wrench, or a vice grip, or a socket, possiably a pair of fairly large pliers. a mexican took kit wrench( no offence of course) possiably you may be able to use your hands


thats about all the WRENCHES i can think to use on this 1 inch apperatious, :rolleyes:
 
BoostedTalonTS said:
Kris,
I was wondering about your .054" HP Cometic HG... I used the standard, non-HP .054", 85.5mm bore HG (Part #C4233) on my rebuild about 2 months ago now. -It looked identical to the one in your pic. -I thought that the HP vesions came with some sort of extra sealing rings around the piston bores. (???)

Nice Work!

What is the thickness of an OEM headgasket? I was looking into getting a .030" Cometic HP headgasket, but I have seen a lot of guys running the .054" gasket.
 
Ahh crank scrapers, another useless mod that someone wanting to make a quick buck has thought up. While using a crank scraper keep this in mind, your taking away oil from your piston skirts and asking for trouble. The only 2 motors I have built that have ever thrown a rod bearing had crank scrapers in them per request. Its a fake useless mod. But then again thats my opinion, dowhutchyoulike.

Aftermarket headgaskets, take this to heart, the stock ones work just as well as the aftermarket ones. Let me explain why. Detonation is usually what blows out a headgasket or uneven sealing surfaces. Even if a headgasket does blow its alot easier to fix than a piston thats grenades because you have an aftermarket headgasket that isnt letting the detonation escape at all. I use arp studs and a stock mitsu headgasket and have never had a leak or had one blow out even at 30 psi of boost from a 60 trim (properly tuned) 2.4 liter 8.8:1 compression ratio.

Both the statements I just made are from my personal experiences not from "what Ive heard" from a friend of a friend of a friend. You get the idea.

KISS keep it simple stupid. Great philosophy to go by on dsms.
 
2.4 turbo Hyped said:
Aftermarket headgaskets, take this to heart, the stock ones work just as well as the aftermarket ones. Let me explain why. Detonation is usually what blows out a headgasket or uneven sealing surfaces. Even if a headgasket does blow its alot easier to fix than a piston thats grenades because you have an aftermarket headgasket that isnt letting the detonation escape at all. I use arp studs and a stock mitsu headgasket and have never had a leak or had one blow out even at 30 psi of boost from a 60 trim (properly tuned) 2.4 liter 8.8:1 compression ratio.
i dont believe in aftermarket head gaskets for these cars either. the O.E. one has held up just fine in all 4 of my cars with head studs and up to 30 psi well tuned. id rather have great compression from a well sealed gasket that *could* pop, than have coolant in my oil from a gasket that didnt seal well for whatever reason. just my $.02.... :dsm:
 
What ever dude, did you forget about the oil squirts? If it didnt work I would not put it on my motor.
 
TSIfreek said:
What ever dude, did you forget about the oil squirts? If it didnt work I would not put it on my motor.

Yes I remembered oil squirters and once again I say to you OUT OF ALL OF THE MOTORS I HAVE BUILT THE ONLY ONES THAT HAVE FAILED HAD CRANK SCRAPERS IN THEM. Not here to start an argument just stating a fact. Leave it installed if you so desire. I will take the 1 less hp route and exchange that for adequate oiling of the bottom end. :laugh:
 
2.4 turbo Hyped said:
Ahh crank scrapers, another useless mod that someone wanting to make a quick buck has thought up. While using a crank scraper keep this in mind, your taking away oil from your piston skirts and asking for trouble. The only 2 motors I have built that have ever thrown a rod bearing had crank scrapers in them per request. Its a fake useless mod. But then again thats my opinion, dowhutchyoulike.
Crank scrapers have nothing to do with rod bearing oiling so I don't see the connection there at all.

Other wise I agree that they're not really needed and the KISS philosophy is key.
 
I know friends who have run crank scrapers for 10k+. Not a problem, thats my personal experience.
\
 
2.4 turbo Hyped said:
Ahh crank scrapers, another useless mod that someone wanting to make a quick buck has thought up. While using a crank scraper keep this in mind, your taking away oil from your piston skirts and asking for trouble. The only 2 motors I have built that have ever thrown a rod bearing had crank scrapers in them per request. Its a fake useless mod. But then again thats my opinion, dowhutchyoulike.

Aftermarket headgaskets, take this to heart, the stock ones work just as well as the aftermarket ones. Let me explain why. Detonation is usually what blows out a headgasket or uneven sealing surfaces. Even if a headgasket does blow its alot easier to fix than a piston thats grenades because you have an aftermarket headgasket that isnt letting the detonation escape at all. I use arp studs and a stock mitsu headgasket and have never had a leak or had one blow out even at 30 psi of boost from a 60 trim (properly tuned) 2.4 liter 8.8:1 compression ratio.

Both the statements I just made are from my personal experiences not from "what Ive heard" from a friend of a friend of a friend. You get the idea.

KISS keep it simple stupid. Great philosophy to go by on dsms.

I agree with you guys on head gasket. The reason I went with the cometic is just the fact I got an oportunity to use it with the machining done on the block and head surfaces. Do I need it no. If I have any problems with this one I have no problem going back to the OEM. I used 2 coats of copper spray on both sides of the gasket to seal the coolant and oil better.
Its all in the surface flatness + finish and torquing the studs down properly to get these gaskets to seal. Guys have probems with the MLS gaskets becuse one of the above is not correct.
 
TSIfreek said:
The rings are located in the center of the gasket between the 2 thinnner pieses of steel on the HP.


Ahhh... That would explain why it looks identical to my Non-HP. -So the HP version have added inner protection from a outward-blown HG failure. (?)


11Sec...
The .054" thickness choice for my HG was mainly to accomodate for a resurfaced head. -I'll dig up some numbers for you later.

:talon:
 
"Several years ago, I used to be a machinist for a independant BMW shop. I
built a lot of motors for the local SCCA "Lone Star Region". All had crank
scrapers, and all had custom baffles in the oil pan. These were not your
autox yahoos, but road course racing cars, TWS, Mid Ohio, Road Atlanta.
Everone had a great suscess rate(as long as the driver didnt miss a shift).
Several even (to my knowledge) still hold lap records for their classes. I
bought a scraper for my car, and if I had the time or money I would have
built or buy a custom baffled oil pan for the car with extra sump capacity

Point is, properly designed scrapers and baffles work, period."

http://www.starquestclub.com/index.pl?board=bullcrap;action=display;num=1096037592





91TSiGuy said:
Crank scrapers have nothing to do with rod bearing oiling so I don't see the connection there at all.

Other wise I agree that they're not really needed and the KISS philosophy is key.
 
"All of the pro-built dry sump engines (Ford 1.6 and 2 Liter) used in Formula & Sports Racers have extensive crank scrapers and windage trays for oil pickup. Since the rules severely limit how much power can be made through carburatiion, valves, and compression, the builders focus on eliminating losses to produce an advantage."

http://www.coloradoscca.org/prodcar/viewtopic.php?t=3625
 
Kevin Johnson said:
"Several years ago, I used to be a machinist for a independant BMW shop. I
built a lot of motors for the local SCCA "Lone Star Region". All had crank
scrapers, and all had custom baffles in the oil pan. These were not your
autox yahoos, but road course racing cars, TWS, Mid Ohio, Road Atlanta.
Everone had a great suscess rate(as long as the driver didnt miss a shift).
Several even (to my knowledge) still hold lap records for their classes. I
bought a scraper for my car, and if I had the time or money I would have
built or buy a custom baffled oil pan for the car with extra sump capacity

Point is, properly designed scrapers and baffles work, period."

http://www.starquestclub.com/index.pl?board=bullcrap;action=display;num=1096037592

Prove it with a before and after timeslip. Once I see more than .1 seconds shaved off Ill be the first one to install one. Were talking drag here not auto cross.
 
2.4 turbo Hyped said:
Ahh crank scrapers, another useless mod that someone wanting to make a quick buck has thought up.

I would like to take credit for inventing scrapers but I am about 40 years late. That you seem to think I thought them up is interesting. You have a few decades of successful use in racing and stock street cars that disagree with your opinion.

KISS --- I am not sure if there is another mod that is quite so simple that yields so much benefit. Just my opinion.

Kevin
 
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