what do you think about my auto tensioner?

[FlipDsM]

well, everything is in one piece, the rod measurement is correct and the rod is so hard to move. the only thing that i am worry about is that when i press the rod with the
c-clamp and release it there are little oil coming out from the base of the rod. is this the leak that vfaq is talking about to watch for to replace my tensioner? and, what can i use as an alternative for this special tool for the tensioner pulley?

appreciate any input. i been slacking working on this car, , its been dead for almost two months now. jeezz, i suck thanks

 

[Boosted4]

save youreslf 1000$+ dollars and replace the tensioner, trust me, OEM ONLY... as for the tool, read up on the section in vfaq how to make one out of your battery bolt or buy on from matco tools, they are easy to come by. if your being lazy you may as well take the extra time, and couple bucks, and put it to good use... just my input


Hope that helps

Brandon

 

[FlipDsM]

thanks man, i guess am gonna have to wait couple more days just to get it order. blah!
anyway, i did not give the specific special tool, sorry. but i'm looking for an alternative to the tools for tightening the tension. the one i have to put over the tensioner pulley.
thank you..

 

[Boosted4]

but i'm looking for an alternative to the tools for tightening the tension. the one i have to put over the tensioner pulley.
thank you..

Well like i said, MATCO, or you could try some 90 degree angle needle nose pliers with a little help from a dremel (if you find the right pliers you wont need the dremel) .. the tool will work great (trust me on this one) then just hold the pully out with a screwdriver and tighten the center bolt. There are all kinds of ways to do it haha ... make sure your tension is correct, use the drillbit method on the vfaq, works great... you will (after you are done) realize how easy that job really is. EASY STUFF once you get the hang of it

Good Luck

Brandon

 

[FlipDsM]

ha ha ha! this is so funny dude. i bought this long(really long) nose plier with 90 degree tip when i went to ace hardware(yes, ace hardware again, that also gives me that special tools for tensioner arm) even before i red your post. as soon as i saw the plier, i thought exactly the same thing as you said. , thanks for your post though, because now i know that it'll work. thanks again.

 

[luv2rallye]

Yes definately replace the tensioner with oem one if it is leaking. And when you compress it to put the pin (allen wrench) in to hold it, compress it VERY, VERY, VERY slowly (like 1/2 turn of clamp per minute to let it settle) or you will damage the seals in new one.

Sometimes the drill bit method is hard to see or do (eg. can't see if drill bit is parallel to tensioner top which affects measurement). An alternative way is to make sure that auto tensioner pin (allen wrench) moves freely in the tensioner hole after you turn the crankshaft and wait for the belt to stretch. Adjust the tension pulley to do this and it will automatically make the distance between the tensioner arm and tensioner body (drill bit measurement) be correct (.15 - .18 in.).