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What do you guys think of this? TD05 20g comp wheel/housing kit

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DSMTyson

10+ Year Contributor
1,225
10
Nov 9, 2010
Lake Charles, Louisiana
Turbo Compressor Housing TD05H + Wheel 20G DSM 1G EVO 3 - eBay (item 150567802677 end time Mar-25-11 03:35:33 PDT)

Just wondering what you guys think of this. Justin, you probably would have a good opinion on this.

Its a 20G compressor wheel from some company in japan. It says its balanced. And i comes with a pre-machined td05 compressor housing to fit the 20g wheel.

Now, i understand you get what you pay for when it comes to ebay turbos. But, i thought it was the bearings that people have problems with on the ebay turbos. And since i will be using my 14b center section with a 7cm turbine housing, i thought i would be alright.

I'm just looking for opinions. :D It looks worth the price. But looks can be decieving.
 
I believe Kinugawa Turbo and Kamak Dynamics are the same company. This is the place which is rumored to have had it's hands in the old Turbochargers.com "Evo III GT" and the former FP 18G-6SL2 and 20G-6SL2. I do not believe they're telling the truth that the parts are from Japan....Kamak Dynamics is a Taiwan-based company.

I don't see how you can't trust a compressor wheel and cover to do it's job. For the record, all turbo compressor and turbine wheels should be balanced within an acceptable spec when you get them- it's up to the buyer to decide if they want the rotating assembly balanced or not.
 
Alright thanks, I feel more confident about buying this now. I'm just wanting a sleeper turbo that no one will be expecting. 22lbs on a 14b and 22lbs on a 20g is a big difference.

I'm just stuck between changing the compressor wheel out myself, or just sending my 14b to Austin so that he can convert it to 20g. It seems pretty straight forward. Take off v band clamp, off goes the turbine cousing, take off the compressor housing, and take off the left had nut on the compressor wheel, then switch them out and put everything back together. hmm :hmm:
 
I believe Kinugawa Turbo and Kamak Dynamics are the same company. This is the place which is rumored to have had it's hands in the old Turbochargers.com "Evo III GT" and the former FP 18G-6SL2 and 20G-6SL2. I do not believe they're telling the truth that the parts are from Japan....Kamak Dynamics is a Taiwan-based company.

I don't see how you can't trust a compressor wheel and cover to do it's job. For the record, all turbo compressor and turbine wheels should be balanced within an acceptable spec when you get them- it's up to the buyer to decide if they want the rotating assembly balanced or not.

Alright thanks, I feel more confident about buying this now. I'm just wanting a sleeper turbo that no one will be expecting. 22lbs on a 14b and 22lbs on a 20g is a big difference.

What part of that is reassuring to you? You do realize that the "Evo 3 GT" is basically held together with chewing gum. Also, the FP18gSL2 uses a Chinese based turbine wheel which are said to fail. Not to mention that Justin believes that this company is lying about their source of the parts, seeing as how they are not based in Japan, and have had a history with the E 3 GT. Its your money. FWIW, I looked at this too, until my better judgment kicked in.
 
I'm just stuck between changing the compressor wheel out myself, or just sending my 14b to Austin so that he can convert it to 20g.
If you do it yourself you'll need to have the center housing machined as well. The 20G "upgrade" kit you linked will only be a direct bolt-on to Big 16G's and Evo III 16G's.
What part of that is reassuring to you? You do realize that the "Evo 3 GT" is basically held together with chewing gum. Also, the FP18gSL2 uses a Chinese based turbine wheel which are said to fail. Not to mention that Justin believes that this company is lying about their source of the parts, seeing as how they are not based in Japan, and have had a history with the E 3 GT. Its your money. FWIW, I looked at this too, until my better judgment kicked in.
Shady, perhaps....but the only parts which never failed on the Evo III GT and the FP 18G6SL2 were the compressor wheel and cover, so take that for what it's worth.

If we were talking about a turbine wheel or housing which sees extreme heat I'd stay away because the Evo III GT had known turbine breakage problems, and the GT as well as the 18G6SL2 had problems with turbine housings cracking in 5k miles or less.
 
I had a e316g with a chipped compressor wheel and got this kit as a tide me over until I got my HX35/40 setup going. I had no way to balance it so I just put it together to the best of my ability. Turbo spools fast just like the e316g, hits harder and does better in the higher rpm's than the e316g. It's been ran at 25psi for the past summer, still 'normal' to no shaft play. Normal being pretty much none. Just my .02
 
^ Great info there, thanks for contributing!

Agreed. If there were more people with positive experiences, I would be more likely to venture off the beat and path. I am just a little apprehensive ATM. Thanks for your input ziggo0. Around what rpm did you hit your 25psi? I'm guessing your turbine wheel was not clipped?

I have also seen billet wheels come in these packages on ebay from a different seller.
 
Bringing this back because I found some weirdness with the Kamak/Kinugawa compressor wheels, specifically the 20g.

There seem to be 2 different versions of the Kinugawa 20g wheel.

Version 1:
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This is the wheel that I received from the same seller listed in the original post of this thread (Authentic Boosting).
Note the sweep angle from where the inducer tips are to where the inducer meets the center hub.

Version 2:
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MHI wheel on left, Kamak wheel on the right. The Kamak wheel is what a friend got when he ordered the same wheel from the same seller I did.

Note the same angle on the ver2 wheel- there is none. The leading edge of the blades exit the hub perpendicular to the axis of rotation. Also note how thick the lower blades are (circled). The blades on my wheel are very thin, just like the blades on the genuine MHI wheel pictured on the left above. The lower blade positioning appears to be the same, it's just the upper blades.

There is some sweep to the MHI wheel, but not nearly as much as on the Kamak ver1. Both the MHI and ver1 wheels tend to shroud the view of the lower blades slightly when viewed from the top, while the ver2 does not.

There are also 2 part numbers for the forward rotation 20g wheel listed in various auctions- 0500-820-024 (the version i have) and 1000-820-024. The reverse/EVO wheels have different part numbers.

I'm currently talking to the seller trying to figure out what is what, but I'm not sure they know all that much about what they're selling. Kinugawa doesn't have a website, and www.kamakdynamics.com is down (maybe their servers were in Japan?) so contacting them directly isn't possible at the moment.
 
Blade shape on the second Kamak wheel in your pics resembles that of a Garrett 60-1 (straighter leading edge), and both the Kamak / Kinugawa wheels have a smaller "hub" area than a MHI wheel, which we all know equals more blade surface area and more airflow....just look at the airflow difference between the Big 16G and Evo III 16G- two wheels with the same inducer and exducer spec.
 
So what I'm getting out of this is that it is an alright alternative to upgrading a B16G?

Yes sir. I'll soon be getting an evo 3 16G from a buddy of mine, and after I get bored with that... I'll upgrade it with one of these wheels. :D
 
Yes sir. I'll soon be getting an evo 3 16G from a buddy of mine, and after I get bored with that... I'll upgrade it with one of these wheels. :D

Thats good to know. I have an extra B16G in my garage that I'm not doing anything with. Maybe I can get a little more out of that before I figure out what turbo I really want to go with.

I just can't seem to find a turbo that suits what I want.
 
There are no boutique turbo parts makers in Japan selling on ebay. Kamack and all the rest of them are all the same group in China, user beware. The "big 16g" compressor used to fly apart with great regularity, they responded by clipping the inducer edges of the blades, but its a material issue really. They arent doing any aero design work at all, just making parts that look like compressor wheels and sorta move air until they break, then you use a new one.

We have tried some of these parts in the past from this group to see if they could be suitable, and most of the parts had to be rejected. Was a very large waste of time and money.

To Recap, the parts in that link are not made in Japan, or shipped to you from Japan, and more importantly they are not made very well and show very little consistency whatsoever, caveat emptor my friends.


BOOSTON!

Robert Young
 
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