What did I do?

[MichaelSuch]

Alright guys I was just driving home from work and about after driving 2 miles on the highway it slightly started knocking then it got louder and it started revving up when I wasn't giving it anymore gas (I was only revving 2-2.4k RPM) and by time it got to 3k RPM I shut it off and let it roll to a stop. There was just a little oil on the ground but and seen a hole in the back of the block where cylinder #1 is. I just got this thing running last week after a rebuild, I have a total of 82 miles on it... Also the T-Belt was still tight and didn't jump from the looks. I'll try my best to pull it out tomorrow and see what all happened. I'm guessing this probably bent my valves as well? What did I do wrong when I put this thing together? I had everything torqued down properly...

My dad claims that doing a BSE kit caused too much vibration...

 

[thatblondechik]

Sounds to me like you threw a rod. It's safe to say you're up for another rebuild.

 

[MichaelSuch]

Well I definately threw a rod, but I guess that one didn't get torqued to spec's then? With it lightly knocking to suddenly knocking very loud... I just don't want this to happen again, now I'll be down a bunch of money again. Just like the guy at the machine shop knew what was up with this turbo DSM, he said I'd be back there in about a month, yeah, he was right...

 

[thatblondechik]

That's a big possibility. But you won't know for sure till it's ripped down (obviously). But with the way you describe it (starting out quiet, then just blowing up), that's what seems most likely.

Just finished a swap myself. I'm starting it up tomorrow...all these threads about new engines blowing up is seriously making me want to stick my Dizzum in a clear glass box and never touch it again.

 

[MichaelSuch]

Well after you make the 500 mile mark I'm sure you're good to go, I'm going to kill myself though if I find out it was my screw up... Hopefully tomorrow we will find out though. Damnit it was such a nice 6 bolt too. ugh

 

[thatblondechik]

God I hope it makes it that far.

Oh and if you're Dad really thinks it was the BSE...tell him to talk to the thousands of people running without balance shafts with 50k plus miles.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

I removed my balance shafts and had my crank balanced, and weighed all my rods and pitons to match the weight of them as closely as possible. I don't get any vibration, nor do any of my rods fly out of the engine. That story really sucks, sorry to hear that.

Why did the machine shop guy say he would see you in a month, was it because of the BSE?

 

[MichaelSuch]

Nah just because I'm a kid with a high revving "ricer"... He saw it was turbo'd and that's why he said it.

 

[crimsondragon]

Did you port the oil relief valve after doing the BSE kit?

 

[caged]

Id say you spun a rod bearing and it eventually seized and threw the rod.

 

[JusMX141]

Sounds to me like the rod caps weren't torqued right. A spun bearing will knock, but the rod cap should still stay intact for the short amount of mileage you traveled.

 

[MichaelSuch]

Did you port the oil relief valve after doing the BSE kit?

Never read anything about doing that while reading on how to do a BSE kit. What do I need to do for this?

 

[frosh29]

Terrible to hear... I myself am at the 6,000 mark on my 6-bolt rebuild, have done the BSE, and have NOT ported the oil filter housing... I think it's to relieve the higher pressure that the BSE creates (someone correct me if i am wrong).

what pistons/rods did you use?

 

[crimsondragon]

Never read anything about doing that while reading on how to do a BSE kit. What do I need to do for this?

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/319342-oil-pressure-relief-valve-porting.html

 

[MichaelSuch]

I used stock rods which I had a machine shop inspect and they reconditioned one because the big end was a little out of spec. I had them mate the rods with brand new NPR pistons. What's weird is earlier I was engine breaking the car, doing WOT pulls to 4-5k RPM in 1st gear and never heard a hint of this coming...

 

[need2boostpsi]

I used stock rods which I had a machine shop inspect and they reconditioned one because the big end was a little out of spec. I had them mate the rods with brand new NPR pistons. What's weird is earlier I was engine breaking the car, doing WOT pulls to 4-5k RPM in 1st gear and never heard a hint of this coming...

what type of logger were you using to make sure you were not getting a ton of knock on these puls?

 

[92awddsm]

If you find 1 undamaged rod nut in the pan, chances are it wasnt torqued properly. If the rod is just blue, broken, and mangled but still attached to the crank, it was probably poor bearing clearances or oil starved. Or it could have just just been rod bolt failure. Take pics when you tear it apart.

 

[MichaelSuch]

Wasn't using a logger, the car is pretty well stock (just a K&N Filter), the pistons used are the same CR as the stock OEM Pistons so I didn't feel there was a need to have a logger.

 

[90BlackGSX]

If you only had 82 miles on a fresh rebuild why where you beating on it doing 5k pulls. Correct me if i am wrong, but shouldn't you break the engine in for the first few hundred miles?

 

[MichaelSuch]

If you only had 82 miles on a fresh rebuild why where you beating on it doing 5k pulls. Correct me if i am wrong, but shouldn't you break the engine in for the first few hundred miles?

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

 

[Dsm2Nv]

If you only had 82 miles on a fresh rebuild why where you beating on it doing 5k pulls. Correct me if i am wrong, but shouldn't you break the engine in for the first few hundred miles?

You are wrong the first time you turn on the engine rev it up to 3k and let it warm up turn off the engine and change the oil put new oil back in take the car out and go for a good drive give it a couple of good pulls and bring it back recheck the head bolts and change the oil again.

 

[MichaelSuch]

From what I understand the ARP Head studs do not need to be retorqued after the car has been running. The only thing I didn't last night that I normally would do is let it idle for a good while, but I don't think that would've made a difference in this case.

I didn't pull the engine yet, I have everything pretty much done to pull the engine, but I went out today and looked at a '90 GSX with a LOT of extra parts, doesn't have the new paint mine does but he's only asking $1000 (which he probably has over that in extra parts, but the car doesn't run yet) and I may just take him up on that offer and drive it until I get out of school and get some time back on my hands. Not going to pull it until I know exactly what I plan on doing since once it's out of the car, the car can't really be moved. I think I'm just going to roll it behind the house and cover it up until summer and until I get another short block.

 

[dsmfa9nutter]

Find a stock shortblock and don't touch the bottom end. I grabbed mine for $300 (with 121k on it) and it's lasted 2k+ so far daily driving.

 

[Dsm2Nv]

From what I understand the ARP Head studs do not need to be retorqued after the car has been running.

Arp also need to be torqued from what i no and from what other dsm'ers have told me and even if ## not sure if they do or dont it dosent realy hurt to retorque them and isint that hard to do.

 

[MichaelSuch]

Well I finally got around to pulling the motor. I was tired of being layered with clothes like the Michelin man and waited for a warmer day. We'll here in Illinois it was 60 degrees yesterday and I had most of the day off so I dropped the transmission though the bottom of the car and pulled the motor out through the top by myself, only took about 2 hours to do since I have pretty much everything disconnected and it was ready to be pulled. Here's the block:

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And this is what I found in my oil pan (piston was still in the cylinder, well whatever was left of it I just pushed it out).

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I'll get some better detailed pictures, it's too dark outside now and my flash is horrible.