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Welding the valve cover.. alloy?

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talon20g

15+ Year Contributor
206
6
Mar 21, 2007
WHITAKERS, North Carolina
I was wondering if the 4g63 valve covers were weldable (tig) with a aluminum rod? Is the valve cover an aluminum and magnesium or what it is exactly. Magnesium wouldn't be good to weld. Slightly hard to put out if she catches on fire.:D I plan on tigging her tonight so let me kow something soon please.
 
I believe its aluminum but I dont know if i would want to weld it. I had a crack in mine and I asked my dad if he could weld it and he said to just get a new one and he has 20 yrs + og tig welding exp. but if you do weld it tell us how it turns out
 
Well then maybe my dad was just lazy haha but if it is all aluminum then im pretty sure you have to use aluminum rods. Make sure you clean it up really nice because any junk still on it will make it harder to weld
 
I'll let you guys know how it works out tonight. And I'm sure it's a alloy not 100% aluminum.
 
Die-cast aluminum. It should weld okay, but it probably won't be pretty. Which won't matter if you're doing the underside.
But thirty bucks and less for a good used replacement is less than the juice to run the TIG would cost. They're just too common.
 
Well it turned out okay. Not my prettiest work but it worked.
 

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Here is a heat sheild I made last night also. It's going on my rewelded and braced ssautocrap manifold. And one more pic of the valve cover.
 

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Yeah... about that. Can you explain the importance of it.
Sure, but I'll need a picture of the underside of the VC with the baffling removed to help explain it. I have one in my garage, so when I get home from work this afternoon, I'll snap a picture and explain it's importance.

Here goes.


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The green circle shows the divider underneath the baffle. This divider separates the path of air entering and air evacuating. The red arrows show the path of air evacuating via the PCV valve. As that happens, fresh air is drawn in on the other side (blue arrows).

If you weld fittings below the baffling and the divider, then most of the air that evacuates will be fresh air coming in. In a nutshell; both locations are relatively close to each other on the valve cover. If there's nothing there to keep them separated, then one will 'pull' on the other and the crankcase will not evacuate properly/efficiently.

The proper way would be to weld the fittings above the baffle like this: http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/files/1/0/2/1/2/2007build032_1.jpg
 

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Sure, but I'll need a picture of the underside of the VC with the baffling removed to help explain it. I have one in my garage, so when I get home from work this afternoon, I'll snap a picture and explain it's importance.

Here goes.


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The green circle shows the divider underneath the baffle. This divider separates the path of air entering and air evacuating. The red arrows show the path of air evacuating via the PCV valve. As that happens, fresh air is drawn in on the other side (blue arrows).

If you weld fittings below the baffling and the divider, then most of the air that evacuates will be fresh air coming in. In a nutshell; both locations are relatively close to each other on the valve cover. If there's nothing there to keep them separated, then one will 'pull' on the other and the crankcase will not evacuate properly/efficiently.

The proper way would be to weld the fittings above the baffle like this: http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/files/1/0/2/1/2/2007build032_1.jpg

do you still have your pcv valve?
 

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