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Weird suspension problem

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Qking95

10+ Year Contributor
91
0
Jun 10, 2010
Boulder, Colorado
So I was driving one day and noticed when I hit the brakes I start hearing some type of popping noise from the front passenger side. Then like a month later my wheel just makes this squeek noise while driving. So I jacked it up and noticed when I grab the wheel I can move it side to side a litttle like its wobbly but the passanger side doesn't move at all. The only thing I can think of is a warped rotor or a bad ball joint but I had my whole suspension rebiult a year ago. Please help! Thanks!
 
Were you moving the wheel with 12-6 or 9-3? If its 12-6 it might be the wheel bearing, if its 9-3 it might be the tie-rod assy (inner/outer).

Also, check the straight control arms. The ball joints are known to fail and have a recall for them.
 
I was moving it 9-3. I had all my ball joints replaced last year. I gotta look at the tie rods. The control arms I got replaced last year too. Thinks rotors are possible? When I hit my brakes it sounds awful. Just even a lil tap makes the noise.
 
A wiggly wheel + brake noises usually = wheel bearing. A wiggly wheel + no brake issues usually = ball-joint, control-arm, or tie-rod. Why this set of "rules"? Because only a bad wheel bearing changes the locations of the rotors and calipers relative to each other; the other issues all cause the rotor and caliper to move together.

Drive in two circles, one clockwise and one counter-clockwise: which produces louder weird noises (without touching the brakes)?
 
When I took the wheel off I grabbed the rotor and could wiggle side to side. I drove in two circles. Both sides sound the same just the wheel with all the problems always squeeks while I drive.
 
Your post isn't clear enough. When you were wiggling the rotor, were the knuckle and caliper moving with it or was just the rotor moving? If just the rotor was moving, it's the wheel bearing; if it all moved together, you need to check controls arms and tie rod.

Note: I suppose that with the wheel off, it's possible for the rotor to wiggle on the hub and, therefore, not be a wheel bearing. But I have never - ever - seen a rotor on a DSM that wasn't solidly stuck on the hub (even five minutes after installing a new rotor), so I'm ignoring this possibility.
 
Yeah I just checked it and the rotor and caliper all move togethor. I looked at everything and everything looked ok except this one ball joint I had replaced last year. The boot is starting to rip on it. Could that be it considering it was replaced recently though.
 
When a balljoint boot rips/tears/degrades with cracks, the joint will fail shortly after. On another car, I replaced ball-joints and within a year the boots had degraded with cracks. Aftermarket parts from China (no-brand) have anyone's guess as to what materials are used. Generally, a name brand will require specifications to meet their standards (regardless of where they were made).
 
Those cotter pins are tiny and just plain metal. I had some rust away and they got loose. Since your at it go to the hardware store and get some stainless steel pins.
 
Hmm thats a good idea. Thanks. Still got my brakes creaking and popping. Also while i'm driving my wheel still chirps. My wheel doesn't move side to side anymore when jacked up though. Anyone know why my brakes and wheel are still actin like this. Please and thank you!!!
 
You may need to get some caliper grease and put it on everything that makes contact. Well except the brake pad surface.:D You'll have to unbolt your calipers to grease them up. Autozone has caliper grease for a dollar or something.
The tires may just be the compound they are. I had some uniroyal's that on blacktop they barked and yiped like a beaten dog when I turned. I wasn't even going fast at all. Pedestrians, lot lizards, and cops would all turn and look thinking I was burning out or being dumb.
 
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