Weird, stiff, inconsistent clutch

[dwdsm]

Well I got my car back together and all is going well except for the clutch problem..
Here's what I have

SBR 3500 (new but sat for the last 2 years)
Shep stage 3 (new) new ball
Fidanza flywheel (new surface)
new braided line
new master and slave cyclinders
new TOB
Old clutch fork

So at first it was nasty to engauge. It moves smooth untill about 3" from the floor and then you have to stand on the SOB to get it down and to engauge into gear. Every now and then it wouldn't go into gear at all and I would have to crack the bleeder open on the spot. Happened at an intersection one time! Just cracking it open would temp. fix it. We thought slave cyclinder, so I changed it..Still the same...So then we thought master cyclinder....nothing still the same! Now we are thinking it's the old clutch fork, That I can't believe I didn't replace! Does this sound right? We thought that it could be the clutch but it seems fine and doesn't slip at all. Did SBR 3500s ever have problems like this right out of the box? I have had GREAT service from them so I'm sure it's cool. Before I crack this bit@% back open I'd like to hear from someone who bent a clutch fork or tried not shimming their NEW clutch fork ball after a new clutch install.

Thanks-
Dave

 

[Maglin]

Don't need to shim. It's most likely your peddle assembly. They wear out. You don't get enough peddle movement. The binding is most likely comeing from the added force from the clutch dragging it on the very worn out bushings. Either replace the peddle assembly or get it repaired. And don't drive your car in this condition. You will destroy those new syncro's as your clutch isn't fully disengaging. It's dragging. Happens all the time and people try to do everything under the sun to band aid the problem but it's still their.

 

[dwdsm]

Don't need to shim. It's most likely your peddle assembly. They wear out. You don't get enough peddle movement. The binding is most likely comeing from the added force from the clutch dragging it on the very worn out bushings. Either replace the peddle assembly or get it repaired. And don't drive your car in this condition. You will destroy those new syncro's as your clutch isn't fully disengaging. It's dragging. Happens all the time and people try to do everything under the sun to band aid the problem but it's still their.

I don't think it's the peddal assembly. I get enough movement It's just that the last 3" are extreemly stiff. I know what a dragging clutch feels like and it's not it....We tested that with all four wheels off the ground, in gear and with the clutch in, the wheels didn't turn at all.

 

[jtmcinder]

I'm not following this completely, but is there any chance of this being 2G clutch "pump-up"? (I won't explain what that means, since I suspect that you know; if not, it's covered on RRE's site.)

- Jtoby

 

[dwdsm]

I have the stop all the way out...It didn't help at all...could it be a faulty pressure plate? that clutch is new so how could I even tell? I should probally call shep but he can be tough to get some time with.. It's something like I've never felt before..I guess we will drop the tranny tomorrow...

 

[dwdsm]

Fixed the problem..It was a bent/worn clutch fork that I should of replaced when I did my tranny/clutch in the first place. IJt felt so stiff the last 2-4" because it was bottoming out on the bell housing and using that as a piviot point. It had way less leverage making it stiff at the end.The clutch feels great now!

 

[paper_clip_boy]

Its always the little things that you kick yourself in the ass for not doing.

 

[Maglin]

Indeed. I got a new fork and ball when I did my TRE tranny. Guess I've never really had to worry about it. Just make sure to put some moly lube on that pivot ball when you put the new one on.

 

[dwdsm]

Indeed. I got a new fork and ball when I did my TRE tranny. Guess I've never really had to worry about it. Just make sure to put some moly lube on that pivot ball when you put the new one on.

ooops!