The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

wb issues!!lean?theres no way!!

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

camas90gsx

10+ Year Contributor
234
0
Jul 16, 2011
seaside, Oregon
I installed a aem uego today that i bought from a local guy and im having issues.Ill start off with my mods-evo3 16g,evo3 exh mani,evo3 o2,wally 255,2g maf unhacked,evo 560's,264-272 cams,3 inch tbe(no cat) and other mods that would have no bearing on this issue.When i start the car it reads 14 for the first 10 seconds then goes up to 18 then-----red.Then when i am driving in 3rd gear at 3000 rpms its at 14.9-17 ish,if i let off the gas the wb goes to way rich for a second then back up to 18 then ----red at idle.The higher i rev the engine the lower the number(richer)it gets??It seems like the readings are backwards.I honestly thought that when i installed the wb it would read rich and i would have to do some tweaking to lean it out.Honestly the wideband is so all over the place that there is no way to make sense of it.There is a leak between the turbo and manifold that im battling that is there but not huge by any means.I welded the bung in about 3 feet back from the turbo.I dont know,im lost??? The only way to get any reading is to revv the s**t out of it,then it goes to stoich!! Any help would be most appreciated.
 
Ehh,yeah possibly.They did my exhaust and wally 255 install a while back.I'm picking up a afpr online from summit for a good price.I am buying a maf-t v2 as well this weekend so i dont know if a trip to english is in the future quite yet,unless i cant get the tune straight myself.If i was getting link again i would probably hit up p.s.i. or english for a tune,but im waiting until summer to decide if i want to go high horsepower.Im just looking to have a ballsy d.d. for now and enjoy having my car actually driving for a change.After throwing a rod and going through a 3 month nightmare with a mentally challenged so called mechanic to get my car running this seems like the best choice.My stella is quite the little beast as she sits,if only i could get this a/f thing figured out! I am going to the guys house who sold me the w/b to try another sensor to rule that out,if it isnt the sensor maybe hooking up my gm maf and maf-t v2 might get things a little more stable since i can atleast account for bigger injectors and maf.The afpr might do wonders as well.Its just a process of elimination from here i guess.Atleast it seems to be running great though!!

did you ever fix the exhaust leaks?
 
did you ever fix the exhaust leaks?

Yes i fixed the leak between the turbo exhaust housing and the exh. manifold as good as i can without snapping my bolts from over torqueing.The leak is so minimal that if you put your finger next to it you can barely feel it.That was the only exhaust leak i had though,and honestly it was so small that im didnt really need to bring it up.Im just kind of a freak when it comes to any leak at all,most people wouldnt even notice it.I ordered a nice thick 7cm gasket that should be here today or tomorrow and that should take care of that along with all new bolts,nuts,and washers.Im going to the guys house who sold me the w/b soon hopefully if he gets back to me today.I have a feeling its either a bad sensor or something to do with my timing being strange due to needing to account for the bigger injectors.This weekend hopefully i'll fix the leak,install my gm maf/maf-t,and maybe throw in my 650's if needed along with the gm maf.I just dont have alot of time because of work and commuting during the week and the fact that its snowing and i dont have a garage doesnt help much either.
 
The P00 means that you have it set at 0, the default setting. If you get a really small standard (micro) screwdriver, you can change on the back of the gauge itself just under where the smaller (4 prong) plug goes, you'll see a small hole. I don't know if your car will react like mine did, but give it a shot. I set mine at P4 & it made a big difference.

Setting the min & max lambda made big difference as well & I know you're unable to do that now, but try the different P settings & see if it helps. There was a definite difference between all the settings on my ride that was instantly noticeable.

Just curious if you tried changing the setting on the back of the WB yet? My car was acting almost the same way - give it a shot, it only takes a minute with a small screwdriver.
 
Considering the distance of the wb from the head and that there is an exhaust leak it's entirely possible this is the issue. I don't recall the aem units but, they can or can't be recalibrated?
 
Ok i am currently driving my car with the 1g maf because i still dont know what is going on with my car and i figured that i would rater run a little rich than lean.There is no difference on the w/b other that the only time it read anything other than----red lean is if i let off the throttle then it spikes up to 12-13 rich and spikes back to ----red lean and stays there.The odd thing is that my car seems to have more throttle response than when i had my 2g maf on.Im running the 1g maf with lower honeycombs removed and the filter behind the maf removed with the stock snorkel and k and n filter.I dont know what to do at this point.Im pretty sure it HAS to be a bad sensor.Im going to see if the guy i got the w/b from will let me try another sensor on sunday and if not i might buy another w/b kit and hope it works this time.Ive been going through thread after thread and tried everything and im stumped.I have absolutely no signs of being lean other than the w/b readings.Any ideas?
 
Ok i am currently driving my car with the 1g maf because i still dont know what is going on with my car and i figured that i would rater run a little rich than lean.There is no difference on the w/b other that the only time it read anything other than----red lean is if i let off the throttle then it spikes up to 12-13 rich and spikes back to ----red lean and stays there.The odd thing is that my car seems to have more throttle response than when i had my 2g maf on.Im running the 1g maf with lower honeycombs removed and the filter behind the maf removed with the stock snorkel and k and n filter.I dont know what to do at this point.Im pretty sure it HAS to be a bad sensor.Im going to see if the guy i got the w/b from will let me try another sensor on sunday and if not i might buy another w/b kit and hope it works this time.Ive been going through thread after thread and tried everything and im stumped.I have absolutely no signs of being lean other than the w/b readings.Any ideas?

Ouch, just fyi widebands jump when on and off the throttle.So when you let off the gas it goes rich for second even if your recirculate and then leans out the injectors turn off till about 1,300k rmp, even my mine does that.But I could sell you my safc and well you could get a pocket logger but it's pretty easy to get a base tune just off the safc and wideband that should be pretty safe for daily driving.I have been running that setup for a while.I have tuesday off so maybe after you get off work we can take a look at your car.Also I was rereading your post does it show a contant number at cruising speeds?
 
Your A/F ratio will change depending on gear vs speed vs load. If your in 5th gear going up a hill at 20mph you will never hit 11.1 no matter how much throttle you give. However, if your going 30, drop it in to 2nd gear and floor it, you should be hitting 11.1 (or somewhere close) everytime. So don't be alarmed by the A/F ratio changing in various conditions. :thumb:

And like posted above, the wideband will jump around quite a bit as it's very sensitive to changes in oxygen levels. So no worries there either.
 
Before it would be at ----red lean at idle but at 45mph in 4th gear it would gravitate between 14.9-15.9 but that was pretty much it, it would fluctuate so fast and frequently it made no sense at all.And before if i would floor it and get up to 10-12lbs of boost and hold it there it would stay around 11.3-12 but then when i let off it would gravitate around 13.9-14.9 for a few seconds and then drop to fully lean and -----red. But now all it does is if i let off the throttle it will spike up to 12 really quick then back to fully lean---red,and when driving it stays at fully lean----- unless i give it throttle then let off then it spikes rich for a mili-second.When i go into full boost i get no response at all.I honestly think either i've got it hooked up wrong or the sensor is bad.With my other aem w/b i had the exact same set-up on my old motor and it acted wayyyy different,i could actually get an idea on where to start with my a/f tuning.I did notice a wire disconnected below the alternator it is in the same harness as the wire that plugs into the oil filter housing.It has a yellow or white wire with a yellow plug on it.It seems like it should connect to somewhere around the alternator or o.f.h. or something in that area.The shortblock im using is from a 91 and my car is a 90 and my mechanic used the 91 ofh (yes i know i should have used the 90!!)so maybe it is something that would connect to the 90 ofh and not the 91 ofh,idk?Also there is a vacuum line not functioning that goes from the top of the t.b.(there are 2 nipples on top of the tb, its the one on the left) to the harness that i tapped into for my boost gauge.The vacuum line is there and attached to the nipple on top of the t.b. but it is broken from the plastic plug it goes into just in front of the drivers window under the hood where all the other vacuum lines come out.Its the black vacuum line on the far right with the green stripes on it.Not the one i tapped into for my boost gauge.That is prob nothing to do with it either,just thought i would bring up some things i noticed today.Thanks for the help so far y'all

Ouch, just fyi widebands jump when on and off the throttle.So when you let off the gas it goes rich for second even if your recirculate and then leans out the injectors turn off till about 1,300k rmp, even my mine does that.But I could sell you my safc and well you could get a pocket logger but it's pretty easy to get a base tune just off the safc and wideband that should be pretty safe for daily driving.I have been running that setup for a while.I have tuesday off so maybe after you get off work we can take a look at your car.Also I was rereading your post does it show a contant number at cruising speeds?

An extra set of eyes from a fellow dsm'er would be nice.I am off sunday and will be home after 5:00 during the week so hit me up on my cell and maybe you could swing by or we could meet up.And to answer your question yes at cruising speeds now it is constantly at ------red.No numbers at all
 
SOLVED!!!!! :hellyeah: I went to the guy's house that sold me the wideband and he pulled his o2 sensor off of the wideband on his car and i went for a drive and wala!! It is reading between 14-15 at cruising and 11-11.6 at wot.It still reads at 18-----lean at idle? I guess maybe its just the way the w/b works,but the main thing is that it is reading exactly where i want at cruising and wot.I got extremely lucky with my setup and no tune and no afpr for me to be as even as i am.The reason why none of this made sense in the first place is because my car is running so great,but lean readings are scary.Im lucky that i bought from such a straight up guy,otherwise i would have gone through alot to figure this out and replaced who knows what for no reason.I didnt think it was the sensor but it was.He gave me the sensor off his car and didnt charge me anything at all and we did it at his house with his tools.He legitimately didnt know,when i bought it i saw it work in his car then we pulled it out right then and there.Iguess the sensor just decided to go out when i hooked it up.Thanks, evil94evo for being straight up.If i need any dsm parts in the future i know who i'll call first:thumb:
 
Sweet glad you got that taken care of!Not to sure about that lean at idle but yea now your making progress.:thumb:
 
Well i did a b.l.t. and found a HUGE boost leak at the tb and intake manifold and fixed that and WOW!!! It idles at 850 rpm's with NO surge whatsoever,14.1-14.7 at idle and 11.1-11.3 at wot and has like 2 times the pull.Goes to show that if you have any issues it does not hurt to do a b.l.t. even if you did one recently,i had just done one two weeks ago and never would have thought.It runs PERFECT!!Thanks for all the help y'all. So the long and the short is that i had a bad w/b 02 sensor and a HUGE boost leak.It all came down to process of elimination.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

  • Wanted 2g Shot in the dark (2g Pass strut cut out)
    Need 2g strut tower to save time.
    • frosh29
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud
    2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud $200 + shipping and paypal feesYou must be registered to...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale VIRGIN 4G63 6-BOLT TURBO HEAD
    Came off a virgin stock AWD Auto 1G DMS (91), also have matching block and crank which are also...
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1G DSM 4G63 6-BOLT TIMING COVER
    Used, see condition in photos. Buyer covers shipping / fees.
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Garage clean out
    Changing setups on the car and getting rid of some stuff as well that's been laying around. Will...
    • 92GSXtacy
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top