Waterpump is junk after 2k miles

[costas14]

I believe the waterpump has gone. Bought a new one going to go back to the shop in the morning and put it on. Just wanted to know do i have to remove the timing belt to do the waterpump? That wouldnt be great at all. I had bought a timing belt set from pd in september when i got the gsx and the first thing that went was the tensioner and now the pump is whining and making lots of noises. Also belts are tight as hell, no a/c and at certain rpms the waterpump freezes and wont turn. So im guessing the bearing is shot. I have no a/c condenser and the fans work perfect, new thermostat and cap so this is the last thing. Its def not a headgasket, if you put the car in park and it idle surges it wont overheat when you drop it in drive the temp gauge starts going up and if you drive over 3krpm. The belts btw are brand new none of the pulleys are frozen. I put the belts in when i got the pump and timing belt etc done which was 2k miles ago. Also the temp gauge just doesnt creep up slowly and go down slowly, it shots up to high then drove it in neutral or park to idle surge and it drops back down to half way.

 

[luv2rallye]

Yes you have to remove the timing belt. Tip: Don't use an after market pump or you will regret it later (especially considering the job to replace it again). They just don't last (even half the time a factory one will) and are not worth the cost savings.

 

[costas14]

ah crap this one i had from pd is like from september, its been having issues since day 1

 

[costas14]

also im guessing theres a bolt on the waterpump thast behind one of the timing belt pulleys and thats why it requires the belt off?

 

[Jubei]

Also belts are tight as hell.

You might now want to overtighten the belts. I've been told not to do that, because it can damage things like the waterpump.

 

[cavillac]

You might now want to overtighten the belts. I've been told not to do that, because it can damage things like the waterpump.

He's may be onto something

If the belt is "Tight as hell" then wouldnt that put all sorts of tension on the waterpump bearings?.. then wouldnt all that extra load on the bearing cause it to wear faster?

 

[luv2rallye]

If the belt is "Tight as hell" then wouldnt that put all sorts of tension on the waterpump bearings?.. then wouldnt all that extra load on the bearing cause it to wear faster?

Definately. The same holds true for other belts too...eg. alternator, ps, ac.

 

[cheap90gsx]

so would a bosch water pump from the auto parts store be a bad one to buy?

 

[costas14]

yea wasnt the pump, i did change it though, timing wasnt hard to do i just forgot to tension it the first time, the stupid car stilloverheats on the highway

theres nothing in front of the radiator no a/c condenser
new thermostat
hoses etc are perfect

somepeople say i should have a sensor on the radiator called thermosister to control fans? not there
no coolant tempature sensor on housing and its blocked off and no wires anywere so i can put one on

 

[nlzn]

also im guessing theres a bolt on the waterpump thast behind one of the timing belt pulleys and thats why it requires the belt off?

The bolt on the far right hand side (if youre looking dead at the water pump how it attaches to the block) is behind the bracket that the tensioner pulley bolts to. (and there isn't enough clearance, at least on mine to get a wrench back there.)

 

[vanilla gorilla]

It shouldnt be your fans, because if it was it would overheat when idling, not driving.

 

[Jubei]

I second what the Vanilla Gorilla said. Try flushing your coolant and removing the thermostat first and see if that fixes your issue. If I am reading your first post correctly, over 3K rpm would drop the temp down, could be due to air or gum up radiator. I had the same symptoms with my first re-build, but that was due to a head port job that hit a coolant passage.

 

[jrohner]

somepeople say i should have a sensor on the radiator called thermosister to control fans? not there
no coolant tempature sensor on housing and its blocked off and no wires anywere so i can put one on

What you are referring to is only on a 1g. On a 2g, the ECU controls the fans.

Your belts should be snug but not super tight, or your water pump is likely to fail quickly. The tighter the belts are, the more load is put on the water pump bearing, and the bearings on the accessories (alternator, ps pump, etc) too. If you need them insanely tight to not squeak and slip, there is something wrong.

 

[costas14]

you could let it sit idle for 3 or 4 hours and it'll be fine, drive on the streets around normally your all set, go on the highway and after a couple miles the gauge will go up a tiny bit, then down, the shoot all teh way to high and drop automatically to half and then after a bit just shoot straight up to high

 

[deviousgst]

you could let it sit idle for 3 or 4 hours and it'll be fine, drive on the streets around normally your all set, go on the highway and after a couple miles the gauge will go up a tiny bit, then down, the shoot all teh way to high and drop automatically to half and then after a bit just shoot straight up to high

same happend to me..changed thermostat, and nothing, still overheating..
i changed my radiartor cap and it was all good..
have u tried it

 

[costas14]

yea i got another radiator cap, same stuff, i forgot to mention that my thermostat housing is from a 1g

 

[treebonker]

In general, any restriction in flow(bad tstat/water pump...) and fan problems will overheat at idle and get better when you drive as the coolant/air flows more. Loss in pressure(bad cap,leaks) will overheat at idle and get worse if you drive. Overheating under load would suggest an insufficient coolant system(rad/coolant) or a head gasket leak. I think you did everything except the first thing you should have done, which is sniff the coolant for gas. Stop replacing things and take it to a mechanic!!

 

[jrohner]

I would almost bet it is a bad head gasket. If you don't feel like replacing the head gasket right now, go check out a product called steel seal, it is like 60 bucks though, so a cheap headgasket is actually cheaper. I used it on my 2g when I had a coolant push (from a line breaking and putting me up to about 300 degrees) and it sealed it for about a year. Mine is pushing coolant again now (after a 'test' of 31psi at really high timing), but I've been driving it like this since summer with the boost turned down to about 20.

 

[costas14]

wow the mechanic at the shop said we should try blue devil, theres so much pressure in the system its insane, once i drive it and pull over you cant even squeeze the hoses, ive overheated this thing so many times its insane, and it just starts right up. i got a new slowboyracing head that i want to put on in the spring time but i guess ill try the steal seal for a temp fix for the winter then do the head and gasket

also i do work at a shop but this overheating and like the ones i see everyday, i was expecting oil mixed with antifreeze or the thing to not run at all

 

[cavillac]

umm? Block tester?

 

[vanilla gorilla]

yes, blue devil is a good sealer