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2G Water/Meth injection, tons of smoke on throttle lift

zachdavidc

Proven Member
40
7
Jun 22, 2014
Bridgeton, New_Jersey
Hello everyone! So I have been fighting an issue with my snow performance kit for awhile now. First and foremost, allow me to describe how I have the kit installed. I have my tank installed in my trunk. The pump is mounted opposite side of the trunk and a few inches below the tank. Right before the pump, I have a meth solenoid installed. Now, I ran the meth line inside the car under the door sill. Right before I ran the line through the firewall, I have the filter/check valve. Recently, I have just installed another meth solenoid a couple feet before the nozzle. For the nozzle, I have an aem v3 with a 1000cc jet installed about 1 foot down from the throttle body elbow in my upper intercooler pipe.
Ok, now that I have described the installation, let me describe my issue. I have it spraying at 3500rpm, 12lbs of boost, over 60 percent throttle and over 1.4 load. I have it spraying from my egr solenoid controlled by ecmlink v3. When I wot and my led for spraying illuminates, there is about 500 rpm where you can tell meth actually is not coming out because it will be about 12 afr and some counts of knock. Now after that short period of time, my afr will drop to 11 and my knock retard decreases gradually. When I let off, the street is filled with white smoke for about 5 seconds after my pull and every time I touch throttle.
Thanks for bearing with me thus far. So here's some info that I missed. I run snow performance boost juice. The nozzle is installed on about a 60 degree upward sloped intercooler pipe. With the meth turned off, there is no smoke at all.
Now here's my theory. Upon throttle lift, the amount of vacuum is over coming the meth solenoids and sucking the long line of meth clear which would explain the beginning lean moment and explain the white smoke upon extreme vacuum.
So I believe I have touched base on everything I needed to. What do you guys think? Should I try to move my pump to the engine bay? Is there a better meth solenoid? Thanks in advance for your input.
 

trogador2005

Proven Member
88
18
Mar 18, 2013
Fort Wayne, Indiana
What turbo and how much boost are you running? sounds like you need to kick the meth on sooner?

I have the exact same kit running from the EGR with link and mine is plumbed almost the exact same way except, I don't have any solenoids, just the check valve right behind the nozzle. I'm also running a 1000cc nozzle but it is the snow performance nozzle. I'm not having the same problem you are, so that makes me think that the meth is not getting sucked in, it could be another problem.

Are you having link pull fuel when you're injecting?

my typical tune for meth is: hit my target arf on a lower boost setting to redline without meth, then add the meth in, have link pull fuel when EGR solenoid is active so that my afr hits my target again while spraying. then turn the boost up and make sure the target afr is still being hit. you always want the meth to come on before you get knock.

Hope some of that helps!
 

zachdavidc

Proven Member
40
7
Jun 22, 2014
Bridgeton, New_Jersey
So I am running 28lbs of boost on a precision pt5858 mitsu back housing. If I kick the meth in sooner it still doesn't help with the fact of the lean spot and smoke on let off. I've tried it before with no success. Link is pulling about 12 percent fuel when spraying meth. And to answer how I tuned it, I did the same exact thing you did. Maybe I should move my check valve right before the nozzle? I just would have thought the solenoids would be a better method to stop flow.
 

trogador2005

Proven Member
88
18
Mar 18, 2013
Fort Wayne, Indiana
Hmm that is interesting. There's still the matter of you not hitting your target afr before the meth hits. i think that a separate issue than the smoke screen.

Yeah try the check valve right at the nozzle!

I'm running the same amount of boost on almost the same size turbo. 25g.
 

zachdavidc

Proven Member
40
7
Jun 22, 2014
Bridgeton, New_Jersey
Definitely going to try that next, thank you!
 

zachdavidc

Proven Member
40
7
Jun 22, 2014
Bridgeton, New_Jersey
It is within 2 feet of the nozzle. When I added this one it did not change the amount of smoke. I am going to be trying the check valve closer to the nozzle first.
 

zachdavidc

Proven Member
40
7
Jun 22, 2014
Bridgeton, New_Jersey
On off with ecmlink.
 

v8s_are_slow

20+ Year Contributor
2,773
245
Sep 30, 2002
Panama City, Florida
Why are you running two solenoids??? You only need one. As close to the nozzle as possible.
 

zachdavidc

Proven Member
40
7
Jun 22, 2014
Bridgeton, New_Jersey
I had an extra one so I threw it in just to see if it would help. I will be deleting the one in the trunk. I have been extremely busy, but this weekend I should be able to mess with it. I'm still having issues and I may try to move the pump in the engine bay.
 

v8s_are_slow

20+ Year Contributor
2,773
245
Sep 30, 2002
Panama City, Florida
Shouldn't need the pump in the engine bay. Just delete the solenoid near the tank and just keep the one in the bay near the nozzle.
 

zachdavidc

Proven Member
40
7
Jun 22, 2014
Bridgeton, New_Jersey
Ok ill clip the wires and see. Any reasoning why that would cause an issue?
 

v8s_are_slow

20+ Year Contributor
2,773
245
Sep 30, 2002
Panama City, Florida
The solenoid is there for the sole purpose of stopping the fluid from flowing if the nozzle leaks. Nothing more. So if you have it in the back, everything in front of that can still drain into your pipes (not good when the car is off). Not to mention all the fluid draining and then wait for the fluid to get all the way back to the front everytime the pump kicks back on.
 

zachdavidc

Proven Member
40
7
Jun 22, 2014
Bridgeton, New_Jersey
Thanks brother, I'll certainly try it and post back.
 
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