Water injection + GM MAF = not working. GM 3 bar instead?

[dragrush]

My water injection is getting the gm maf damp and it sends bad signals and causes the engine to stutter and bog. The nozzle is about 6in after the maf and is pointing in the correct direction. The guy who was tunning recommended completely eliminating the maf/maft and using a gm map sensor. Will this correct my problem? FYI I have dsmlink

Is there anything else needed with the gm 3 bar map sensor and dsmlink in order for this to work? such as this
http://www.fullthrottlespeed.com/itemdesc.asp?CartId={8C022A9E-7D8F-EVEREST457B-9B36-060C0AF432A7}&ic=050SD2G&eq=&Tp=
or is that just for easy installation? It also says there is a harness for a temp sensor, is that neccesary

Also I have a blitz BOV which I can not recirculate, I know it is alright not to recirculate with the gm maf, but would it cause any driveability issues not recirculating with the gm map and no maf?

 

[shleppy]

If the nozzle is pointed in the right direction then your not getting water on the gm maf with all the airflow going away from the maf. However if your injecting too much water at low boost then you will studder and bog. Try raising the boost level that you start injecting at and see if this helps your problem. I know that I had to experiment with what boost level I started injecting at and how high I adjusted the pressure to inject enough for high boost-27psi, and not bog down at low boost-10psi. The setup I'm using starts injecting at 10psi as the default which means that since I have a single stage for now, I inject almost the same at 10psi as I do at 27psi where I can obviously utilize alot more water. I hope this helps you out.

 

[dragrush]

He tried using at 15 psi which should be enough but is still sputtered and boged. It still sputters even when he is not using the water injection, but only pulls after it has been used. The only time is does not sputter is when he takes the maf and sits it out to dry off puts in back in and does not use the water injection. He said looking at the readings from dsmlink the signal from the maf is jumping all over the place. And thanks for the help

 

[shleppy]

What size nozzle do you have? What kind and brand h2o injection? At 10 to 15 psi there is a huge amount of airflow going away from the mas, so it should be impossible for it to get wet unless the nozzle is pointed at it. Having h2o injection 6 inches after the mas is tried and true. If this setup is not working for your mechanic the solution shouldn't be for you to spend more money-instead it should be to correct the problem. Has your mechanic installed water injection before? Is it possible that you have water in your intercooler that's making the mas wet? I hope you don't think I'm attacking you, it's just that you shouldn't be having this problem if the water injection is installed correctly.

 

[dragrush]

I got the delux single stage kit from coolingmist. And i'm not sure if they installed h20 injection before, but im assuming so. There is no water in my IC pipes, it is only a fine mist that is getting to my MAF, but enough to short out the connections. They said they dont know how it is getting back to the maf, but it is.

 

[shleppy]

I have the exact same kit with a gm mas, and with the nozzle around 6 inches past the mas I get no water on it at all. I really think they put the nozzle pointing the wrong way. Try taking the nozzle out and look at it to see whats up. Odds are its a simple/stupid fix that you can easily correct. Once you get this fixed I think you'll be really happy with the combo-I know I am. I've run as much as 30psi/56.5lbs with no knock on 93 and 15 degrees timing with dsmlink/gm mas/coolingmist h2o injection. Edit: according to coolingmist it dosent really matter where it points-into or away from the airstream. Can you move the injector farther away from the gm mas?

 

[dragrush]

I talk to the guy from coolingmist and he also recommended moving it further from the maf, but if I move it closer to the IC it will be right next to the BOV and if I move the nozzle it will be to close to the TB. Im putting the oem 2g maf on and see how that works.

 

[RavenX]

I don't have a gm maf yet. But I do have a meth kit and my injectors are 6 inches away from the throttle body and i don't have problems.

 

[dragrush]

The tech from coolingmist told me that he heard of problems of gm maf with water/alcohol injection messing up the signals before. He mentioned that any other maf such as the ones on suburaus and srt4's never seemed to have the problem. The gm maf may just be sensitive to moisture. But why does it work for others such as shleepy, i dont know

 

[shleppy]

I have the injector on the throttlebody elbow itself around 2 inches from it, and have no problems with the throttlebody at all. Maybe you should try this.

 

[destrux]

Sounds to me like the system isn't shutting off fast enough when you shift and the car drops out of boost. The surge of air that goes back through the BOV might be pulling water back, but I still doubt even that. Sounds more like water is pooling in the IC pipes, intercooler, or even in the MAS itself (they can trap water inside between the castings if they get wet from the inside) and then when you start the car it's pulling it in. Check your WI solenoid or check valve, or check for line leaks between the solenoid/checkvalve and the nozzle, if there's a leak there it will let air in and the water in the line will get drawn in under vaccum.

 

[TURFNNSURF]

Dragrush,

I am posting a picture of my GM mas setup. Photochop my picture to show where the H2O nozzle is in YOUR setup. This will help us to give you a better location for the nozzle. By the way My Cooling mist kit has been installed for almost a yr now and I have had NO GM MAF problems ever. My nozzle is in the throttle body elbow about 5 inches from the throttle body.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[dragrush]

I actually went back to the oem MAF and the problems was solved