steve-o_95_GST
Supporting Member
- 675
- 37
- Feb 29, 2004
-
Central,
Minnesota
I had a W4A33 rebuilt about 11 years ago and it sat in storage until last fall through this summer. Completely gone through with the items below.
BORG WARNER HIGH ENERGY FRICTIONS,
HIGH ENERGY BAND,
KIGGLY 5 CLUTCH FRONT KIT,
CRYO TREATED & COATED TRANSFER GEARS,
RACE PREPPED PUMP AND VALVEBODY
I got 54 miles on it before I lost all drive in any gear.
Consulted the FSM which states to check reducing pressure, if bad then clean valve body then check oil pump. Following steps I measured ~ 40 PSI for what seemed to last about 30 seconds which momentarily rose to ~ 70 then almost immediately fell to 0. I took the pan off and saw what looks like black clutch material everywhere and magnets were coated with about the same amount of material I saw on a 200k mile Ford F150 transmission pan magnet. The smell was similar to taking an angle grinder to steel. So I took the valve body off to clean, put back together and retest. I followed the IPT videos on YouTube and was surprised with an extra item when taking the lower valve body off.
There was a very small hex nut that appeared after taking the lower valve body off. I took the lower body off with the steel plate attached to it, so it did not come from that side of it. I took many pictures while taking this apart to make sure I have as much info as possible for reassembly.
I have attached a picture I took immediately after removing it and the spring, circled in blue; appears to be still compressed? The second picture is a wider angle and shows the hex nut circled in blue and the spring had extended. The hex nut is too small to belong to any fastener I took off. It can fit in many of the holes but the only one that makes sense is to shim the spring on the line pressure relief hole as it is the exact diameter. The nut on the spring seems to almost completely put the spring into coil bind when fully installed.
I've been searching but I can't find any information on why this would be done.
Is this something that makes sense? Can anyone confirm this is something that has a benefit? Does the nut go somewhere else?
I want to reinstall the valve body with a new filter to see if I have any drive but have my doubts it will change anything without a soft goods kit overhaul.
I was worried about the clutches drying over time and rust on parts when I was putting everything together. I am guessing this a failure resulting from stitting for too long.
BORG WARNER HIGH ENERGY FRICTIONS,
HIGH ENERGY BAND,
KIGGLY 5 CLUTCH FRONT KIT,
CRYO TREATED & COATED TRANSFER GEARS,
RACE PREPPED PUMP AND VALVEBODY
I got 54 miles on it before I lost all drive in any gear.
Consulted the FSM which states to check reducing pressure, if bad then clean valve body then check oil pump. Following steps I measured ~ 40 PSI for what seemed to last about 30 seconds which momentarily rose to ~ 70 then almost immediately fell to 0. I took the pan off and saw what looks like black clutch material everywhere and magnets were coated with about the same amount of material I saw on a 200k mile Ford F150 transmission pan magnet. The smell was similar to taking an angle grinder to steel. So I took the valve body off to clean, put back together and retest. I followed the IPT videos on YouTube and was surprised with an extra item when taking the lower valve body off.
There was a very small hex nut that appeared after taking the lower valve body off. I took the lower body off with the steel plate attached to it, so it did not come from that side of it. I took many pictures while taking this apart to make sure I have as much info as possible for reassembly.
I have attached a picture I took immediately after removing it and the spring, circled in blue; appears to be still compressed? The second picture is a wider angle and shows the hex nut circled in blue and the spring had extended. The hex nut is too small to belong to any fastener I took off. It can fit in many of the holes but the only one that makes sense is to shim the spring on the line pressure relief hole as it is the exact diameter. The nut on the spring seems to almost completely put the spring into coil bind when fully installed.
I've been searching but I can't find any information on why this would be done.
Is this something that makes sense? Can anyone confirm this is something that has a benefit? Does the nut go somewhere else?
I want to reinstall the valve body with a new filter to see if I have any drive but have my doubts it will change anything without a soft goods kit overhaul.
I was worried about the clutches drying over time and rust on parts when I was putting everything together. I am guessing this a failure resulting from stitting for too long.
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