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Valve replacement. No way to get around timing belt Removal?

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95EclipseGST

20+ Year Contributor
406
1
Mar 1, 2002
Kansas City, Missouri
I am thinking of doing a valve job for the first time to replace valves and stem seals. I am buying the mitsubishi spring comprssor and all that, but was wondering how difficult is this job? I am trying to get away from doing the timing belt since thats the reason i am replacing valves in the first place, "timing belt jumped teeth" Anyway is there a way to clamp or mark the belt or get away from doing a full timing belt job in any way? Thanks for answering my Newbie question.:coy:
 
you will need to remove and replace the TB. If you are paranoid about that then you shouldn't proceed.
 
The first question i would ask: "how will you get the valves out without removing the head?" You don't. So be ready to do a tb job. And why did it 'jump teeth'? You might look at the tensioner and pulleys along with that new belt when you tackle this job. Skipping teeth surely can't be good for that old belt. As stated, if you feel unsure of yourself doing the work, find a buddy that can supervise your 'on the job training' or take it to a shop.

Jim
 
I jumped teeth cause the timing belt tensioner pin split and broke off at the end. I took it to the dealer to have a timing belt job redone before coming to Italy. They said i didnt have bent valves AND retorqued my head bolts but my car is eating oil like crazy, have no boost until 6000 rpm and when i did a boost leak test from the turbo, it wouldn't hold air and you could hear it under the valve cover. I am blowing blue and white smoke between shifts also. I was just going to replace the valve stem seals and valve guides and see if i still have the problem. I am going to do another boost leak test from the LICP and one from the Throttle Body elbow. If i cant find whats wrong im just going to buy brand new heads and a new turbo and start from scratch with a new head gasket etc. I have zero shaft play in the turbo. I am leaking some oil from the moon seal on the valve cover and was going to put on the new seals when i put in new valve guides etc. I know you cant take out the valves without a timing belt job, but can i do all the guides and seals from the top without a timing belt job? This is a new 6 bolt with a new Evo 3 16g and 5 angle valve job etc. I dont know why i have been having so many problems. It seems like my turbo is toast but theres no shaft play, or it seems like my head gasket is bad but they said it was fine. So im just going through and replacing crap one by one. I live in Sardegna Italy, so i am stuck doing this on my own with no dealer around. I did manage to complete the entire 6 bolt swap by myself and zero help, so im sure i can fix this, its just hard to pinpoint whats wrong. I am ordering a compressor to finish the boost leak test and then a leak down tester before swapping the entire head. Any inputs are welcome. Even though i did the swap myself i still consider myself a newbie as far as troubleshooting or replacing a timing belt.:rolleyes:
 
I know you can use the Miller tool http://www.vfaq.com/mods/Valvestem-seals.html to get at the valve stem seals with the head on. If it is a fresh head I find it hard to beleive that you have blown the stem seals so quickly unless the stems are scratched up.
I have never used this tool before so I could not tell you if you can change the guides also. Also you would still have to do the tb job.

Jim
 
It says: "This tool will work on all MMC engines along with 3.0L, 3.3L, 3.5L, 3.8L, 5.2L, & 8.0 Liter Chrysler engines, 1992 thru Current." Will this work on my 1990 6 bolt? I will just pay the money for one if it will work on my engine. I just bought a leakdown tester also. I was reading on one of the posts about at a minimum a comprssor should put out "blank" and be a certain amt of horsepower compressor. I couldnt find it again though. I am getting a Senco 1/2 gallon 125 psi compressor for this and hope it works. Let me know if i need a larger one cause im bidding on one from ebay. Thanks
 
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