V3 not reading fuel trims. Advice please

[techlogic89]

I would post this in tuning forum but I am still probationary.

Anyways, I got V3 installed and running properly. However after I enter my captured values and do a few sample logs. I realize something is wrong.

My combinedFT, LTFT, and other FT values all read 0%. They never fluctuate or move at all. The car is very rich and sluggish, can anyone give me any input on this? I haven't been able to find anything searching.

Thanks in advance.

 

[viperlp01]

What is your front o2 doing? If the car is locked into open loop mode or you have no front o2 sensor to let the ECU know WTF is going on you will have no fuel trim.

 

[MY1GDSM]

As said no signal from the O2 for to long will keep it locked in Openloop or if the car it's self is locked in openloop in ECMLink.

Here is a few other things to keep in mind as well. fueltrimupdatepoints [ECMTuning - wiki]

 

[techlogic89]

I figured it had to be something obvious. I thought that could be a problem. I have an LC1 wideband that has been giving me trouble, it functions for 5-15 min then errors out and starts flashing. I've checked the grounds but I am hoping it is just a bad sensor. However as I said the WB does give me a believeable reading for several minutes, maybe a heater problem?

Its wired to simulate WB02. I dont have the logs in front of me but I don't think it was cycling like it is supposed to. Let me replace the sensor and try again, I'll get back to you.

Thanks for the replies.

 

[MY1GDSM]

Are you getting an error code on the LED when it flashes?

If so, This maybe helpful then.

It May just need a free air calibration as well. That is something that never hurts to try if you are getting weird readings for the Wideband... .

As well, Knowing how the Wideband is wired exactly and how things are setup in ECMlink... .

 

[techlogic89]

Ok, its a code 8, heater calibration.

02 sensor is in stock location, so I probably fried the sensor. Will replace sensor when I get off from work. I am just going to keep the stock 02 location for now since I will be fabricating a bumper side exit exhaust in the near future anyways. Hopefully the new sensor will last a few months.

This sounds like my issue, hopefully this is my only issue. I miss driving this car, my DD is a civic...

Thanks for the help. I will update with results asap.

 

[MY1GDSM]

Not a problem, at least you have a wideband smart enough that it knows to tell you it is having an issue where it is... .

 

[techlogic89]

Ok so I replaced the sensor, the wideband seems to be functioning. So far so good there.

But I am still stuck in open loop, still no FT values. 02 voltage ranges from .16v to 1.0v not a rapid cycle, its long periods of a constant voltage.
Another thing is it looks like ECMlink isn't seeing the actual A/F readings. It reads a constant 14.7, which I know the LC1 simulates the narrowband but I cant sync the wideband.

Ah, why couldn't everything just plug and play

 

[n0de]

Ok, its a code 8, heater calibration.

02 sensor is in stock location, so I probably fried the sensor. Will replace sensor when I get off from work. I am just going to keep the stock 02 location for now since I will be fabricating a bumper side exit exhaust in the near future anyways. Hopefully the new sensor will last a few months.

This sounds like my issue, hopefully this is my only issue. I miss driving this car, my DD is a civic...

Thanks for the help. I will update with results asap.

Well. Did you calibrate it first before installing the sensor? If you haven't, you can try doing that before shelling out $$ for a new sensor.

 

[techlogic89]

Sorry I thought I mentioned that.

Yes I did an open-air and heater calibration on the old sensor first. Plus if it turns out to be a different problem, I'll have a spare 02 sensor. I'm confident I will be replacing these every couple years at least.

 

[MY1GDSM]

Post a log you may just have the wrong settings for things in Ecmlink or a wiring issue with the wideband outputs.

Hence why I asked the first time in post #5

 

[techlogic89]

Ok so apparently I am not simulating a narrowband signal.

So essentially the wideband isn't configured at all in link.
So at this point I just need to do more research about initial setup.

I was able to post in the tuning/logs sub section there is a log there if you still want to look. It's pretty much unconfigured...

 

[MY1GDSM]

You will get much better advice if you keep it all in one thread... As you may get differing advice based off the information available.

I'd say that Keeping the rest of this in one thread would be best... . Link to other thread

As far as getting things setup right. All that you/we need to know is what outputs from the W/b are logging to what Inputs of the ECU. Just how is it wired up in short.

Here for reference to setup a Narrowband simulation install with (DB gauge, Logging, ECMlink v3 setup) [LC-1 sensor placed in front o2 spot]

You would wire things up like this...

Red wire – 12v accessory power source ~ An Used/unused Fuse with power only when key'd on works well with something like this
Blue wire – a GOOD chassis ground
White wire - ECU sensor ground (pin 24)
Brown – ECU pin 15 or pin 4 (ECU Pinout)
Yellow – DB gauge's white wire
(*Must reprogram Analog Out 1 values to match Analog Out 2 values using LM Config 3.15. Screenshots and software - innovatelc1orlm1install [ECMTuning - wiki])
Black – Calibration push button to monitoring LED to ground
*Note – The brown and yellow wires can be swapped in this scenario.

Narrowband simulation is then done inside the v3 software - v3narrowbandsim [ECMTuning - wiki]
I've never been in agreement with most here as far as placing the W/b in the Front 02 as I've seen quite a few fail. I think it depends a lot on the tune and the car as well as the wideband being used. Just keep in mind it's life Will be shorter.

 

[techlogic89]

That's helpful.

I followed that wiring guide initially, but will go back over everything to be sure. I put the yellow wire on PIN 4. I haven't reprogrammed the analog values yet either, as I seem to have lost the serial cable....FML

Dually noted about the front 02 location, I honestly just used it out of laziness. I feel the near instant reading is worth the heat risk. I will make a copper heat sink for it as suggested on the ECM wiki, hopefully its pretty effective. I plan to move 02 location down about a foot (right past the alternator) when I put the bumper exit exhaust on.

EDIT: I am using the MAF cable NOT a MAFT