UNDERDRIVE (crank) PULLEY?

[doug]

Originally posted by GRNDSM but in now days you pay $300 for a set of UR pulleys.

Isn't that for a complete set, though, and not just the crank pulley?

Originally posted by GRNDSM
It is NOT about saving weight! It is all about “underdrive” feature. If you want save weight, get a super light flywheel. It is much easier to shed a few pounds that way. But with lighter rotating assy will come much trickier launching…

It's mostly about reducing rotating crankshaft mass as well, isn't it? And I don't have to worry about launching, since I have an A/T.

 

[GRNDSM]

>Isn't that for a complete set, though, and not just the crank pulley?

True, but that is the only one that matters…

>It's mostly about reducing rotating crankshaft mass as well, isn't it?

They use it in their advertising, but the real benefit comes from the “underdrive” feature. Whatever the case, the gains are very modest. Every time that I see a magazine test them, they dyno them at 3-8hp (depending on the car). Which is far cry from 10-15hp that they claim for almost all cars.

>And I don't have to worry about launching, since I have an A/T.

Since you have FWD, you right, you do not need to worry about it. But this is an issue on AWD cars.

Leon
RR

 

[Newlogics]

Originally posted by GRNDSM
\
Since you have FWD, you right, you do not need to worry about it. But this is an issue on AWD cars.

Leon
RR

I have AWD GSX and it launches faster then anything outhere. I haven't seen a notch of launch probems with the pulley.

Can you describe exactly what launch problems if would inflict ?

 

[GRNDSM]

>I have AWD GSX and it launches faster then anything outhere.
>I haven't seen a notch of launch probems with the pulley.

Right, that is what I am saying… That is because you do NOT get any meaningful weight reduction with the pulley!

If you would have installed something that actually had reasonably lighter weight (like lightweight FW), you would have noticed the difference.

Accessory pulleys are too small in weight and in diameter to really make weight reduction meaningful in ether way (be it more power or less launching energy).

Leon
RR

 

[Nikita]

to install, do i need to unmount the motor and lift/lower to access the crank pulley or what?

also, what tools are absolutley necessary?

 

[doug]

This answer is going to be a little vague, but here goes. It's not that complicated and requires no special tools. My brother-in-law and I (well, mostly him) did mine in about 10 minutes. You don't need to drop the engine or anything. Sorry I don't remember more-- I'll try to find out.

 

[Newlogics]

You jacck the car up, remove passenger wheel, remove top timing belt cover (makes easier for your hand to get to tight spots).
Remove wheel-well panels and you'll see the pulley. Loosen up all the tensioners and remove belts. ( I had to actually remove one tensioner on power steering belt compeletely to get the belt out) Insert something square (I actually used flat end of the lug wrench, but it's a bit too smal) into the center hole on the pulley (you'll understand as soon as you see it), and use it to hold pulley in place and undo the bolts that hold it.

Slap new one on, tighten bolts and put new belts on. Alternator belt is a breeze, the second one is trickier and requires you to get into pretty tight spaces. You will need a socket wrench with long (at least 8" extention and also regular (none-socket) wrench to tighten nuts on tensioner between wheel well and the engine (socket wrench doesn't fit in there). After you put all the belts back on and tension them, run the engine for a few minutes and tension them again. To get an idea on how tense they shoudl be, try the old ones before you remove them.

Run the engine before you put wheel and panels back on the car, so you can see the pulley to make sure there is no play and belts are not wobling.

 

[doug]

Newlogics' way is the "best" way, but at the time we did mine, I couldn't find my lug nut key, so we couldn't remove the wheel or wheel well panels. It still wasn't too hard, though. One thing you will have to watch for is that since the new pulley is a slightly smaller diameter, the belts will have to be tightened up some or they will be loose. My air conditioner belt still slips some and I need to get in there and tighten it down some more.

 

[Nikita]

what size belts are needed to fit properly or will the current ones work? thanks...

 

[Newlogics]

Originally posted by Nikita
what size belts are needed to fit properly or will the current ones work? thanks...

I can't remember now, but the pulley I bought came with belt numbers required for it. I think most do, and I'm sure seller will know.

 

[doug]

My pulley didn't come with any belt numbers-- from what I remember, we had to use belts 1/4" shorter than stock. That's the reason my A/C is slipping-- it's still the stock size. You can probably get the stock ones to work, but it'll take some effort to tighten all the accessories down as much as possible to keep them from slipping.

 

[jdmawd]

Originally posted by L2RTSiAWD
I have these

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A fulley-pulley set. I beileve it uses the same crank pulley machv sells since they sell DSM-Performance stuff.

me to

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made my belts squeek thats the only bad part

 

[DSMJim]

Originally posted by GRNDSM
>think that $350 for the Buschur pulley is a lot of money.

It is NOT about saving weight! It is all about “underdrive” feature. If you want save weight, get a super light flywheel. It is much easier to shed a few pounds that way. But with lighter rotating assy will come much trickier launching…

Leon
RR

Acctually that is not true. Call up unorthodox. They have tested the pullies being under driven and lightened and just lightened. I was told directly from unorthodox that their pullies HP is made 85% from the weight reduction and 15% from under driving. Some applications they make they don't even under drive it because it didn't make extra HP.

The 2002 accord pulies they made dynoed at 22hp and 21ft/lbs increase and they were not under driven at all, stock belts are used unlike under driven pullies that need a gates replacement that is shorter.

 

[GRNDSM]

>Call up unorthodox.

No thanks… They discredited themselves when they went on to Talon Digest and proclaimed that 4G63T does not have a harmonic torsional damper (aka harmonic balancer), back in ’97.

>They have tested the pullies being under driven and lightened and
>just lightened. I was told directly from unorthodox that their pullies
>HP is made 85% from the weight reduction and 15% from under
>driving. Some applications they make they don't even under drive
>it because it didn't make extra HP.

This is such BS (at least for 4G63s) that I do not even know where to start on this… So I will pass…

Leon
RR

 

[ChrisHKS]

for every pound taken off the crank, like 3 HP is increased ive seen somewhere. extreme technologies sells a harmonic dampener for 349.00. STeeP! they also claim it to work as an underdrive too. let me know what u guys think

 

[GRNDSM]

>for every pound taken off the crank, like 3 HP is increased ive seen
>somewhere

That is BS... The weight itself is not all that important. What is important is the weight AND its distance from the center. Pulleys are only 5-6" in diameter, so weight reduction on them is no-where near as significant as it is on a flywheel which is 12-13" in diameter.

That is why I said before: if you want lighter rotating mass (which is not good for everyone), start with the the FW...

Leon
RR

 

[Nikita]

ok, let's not turn this into another UDP argument. through my research (so far) i'd say about 98% of the people who have actually perfromed this mod have seen a noticeable difference...which seems to prove something....

 

[jizzo007]

i put my cams in at the same time as my pulleys so i really don't know what difference they made. i haven't had any probs with them.