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turning my eclipse into my dreamcar

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Blackop456

Probationary Member
11
0
Sep 22, 2013
Ashburn, Virginia
Hey guys i recently just purchased a 1999 gst spyder eclipse for 2100 and i noticed some issues going on.. im kind of new into the dsm world and im going to use this thread as me going from what it is now to what i really want it to be, i want my car to turn heads but i really dont know where to start..:hmm: the cars convertible top had a gigantic rip under the rear windshield so i decided just to buy a new convertible top and throw it on there :hellyeah: i noticed that my radiator was leaking so i bought a cx racing radiator and installed that one :cool: i continued on to do an oil change (i used 10w-30 synthetic) i also put in new ngk bpr6es sparkplugs in.... this is where it starts to get ugly :barf: i decided to change the valve cover gasket and did so, everything went well until i tried screwing in the last bolt (front-middle bolt)i noticed that the bolt wasnt grabbing thread on the bottom half of the block i took off the valve cover (again :banghead:) and saw that the thread was worn out i ran to advanced and they told me just to use the same thread bolt just longer, and thats exactly what i did the new bolt screwed in just dandy! (correct me now if what i did was a noob/rice move please) my bro is telling me just to tap it and put the oem bolt back in but im not too sure how i feel about that :| so i closed everything up and noticed that oil started building up on top of the valve cover (forgot to mention that i had bought a new oem dipstick too) and i dont know why.. :toobad: and thats not the best part i noticed that im also leaking some oil under the car :|any advice for a rook like me please!! ill keep you updated on my progress! :)
 
If you have oil pooling in the valve cover and the dipstick is leaking/popping out, then you have issues with crank case pressure. Is your car actually a turbocharged GS, or a factory turbo GST?
 
If you have oil pooling in the valve cover and the dipstick is leaking/popping out, then you have issues with crank case pressure. Is your car actually a turbocharged GS, or a factory turbo GST?

looking at his profile its a turbo'd gs. Sorry sonny the 4g64 was not meant for force induction, you'll be better off cutting your losses and selling the car now if you want a boosted car.
 
ive already taken a look at it, it was incredibly useful when i tried to disconnect the pcv valve to check it, it is very difficult to come off i tried twisting it off and pulling it off it doesnt budge
 
You may need a new oil cap or need to double up the oil cap rubber seal. If you do that and you're still getting oil pooling up, you may need to take a good look at your valve cover with the car running and check for cracks, or see where it's coming from.
 
ive already taken a look at it, it was incredibly useful when i tried to disconnect the pcv valve to check it, it is very difficult to come off i tried twisting it off and pulling it off it doesnt budge

The actual valve on the rear of the valve cover? It screws in. Just take an adjustable wrench and twist it out.

Even if the valve cover is cracked or the oilcap is leaking, any pooling oil in the valve cover is still a sign of high crankcase pressure.
 
so i opened up to check if any oil is getting in the spark plugs :hmm: noticed that plug #4 is filling up with a bit of oil maybe a faulty gasket job :toobad: would it be a good idea to reopen the valve cover and redo the gasket job?
 
You may not need to redo the gasket but at least pull the valve cover and take a look at it. It only takes a few minutes to remove it. Did you make sure you replaced the gaskets around the spark plug holes? You might have part of the gasket pinched somewhere which is allowing oil through.
 
so i opened up to check if any oil is getting in the spark plugs :hmm: noticed that plug #4 is filling up with a bit of oil maybe a faulty gasket job :toobad: would it be a good idea to reopen the valve cover and redo the gasket job?

Disconnect the rubber hose from the PCV valve which screws into the back of your valve cover. Boost leak test your car and check if it's leaking out of the end where the rubber hose connects. If any air is leaking with a test pressure of 15psi (should hold up to 30 psi at least, but 15psi is a good test for the PCV valve), you need a new OEM PCV valve. The auto parts store PCV valves won't cut it...go to a Mitsu dealership and get one...~$8. If you don't know what a boost lead test is, search. If you don't want to do a boost leak test, sell the car or deal with its poor performance.

If the PCV valve is good, make sure you properly installed the valve cover gasket kit. Did you use a sealer when you installed the kit?

There are many other causes for too-high crankcase pressure, and any of those could cause your issue. If the crankcase pressure is large, the engine can leak somewhere, and with that leak comes oil. In your case, oil is getting pushed out of the top of the motor, past the sparkplug o-ring and into a sparkplug well. At least, that's what it sounds like. If you see a trail of oil from somewhere else such as the oil cap, then the oil cap is leaking, but you don't usually get a large leak from a bad oil cap seal unless there's pressure behind it (bad PCV system).
 
So I redid the valve cover and gladfully the oil isn't pooling up anymore :) I checked the Pcv valve with the Pcv valve on the cover and I was able to suck and blow when I took it out and checked it I was only able to suck 0,0
 
I highly recommend buying a US Plastics 3/8 Kynar check valve and putting it inline with the pcv valve now to avoid any unwanted oil leaks due to pcv failures in the future. Even the Oem pcvs can get stuck open/closed rather quickly. You really don't want to turn the boost up one day and throw all that positive pressure right into your crankcase. It's ones of the most straightforward reasons why some people pop dipsticks. Of course it can't help with blowby.....Buy a few of the check valves as shipping isn't cheap compared to their individual prices. You'll always find a use for them and if not, you can always sell some of them on the forums for a quick few bucks when you gain access to the classifieds.
 
Like Joe said, get a check valve and put it in line with the pcv. Stock pcv s do not like boost after a little age gets on them and replacements from autozone? Junk. The kynar valve is the best mini-upgrade i did to my pcv system.
 
I also agree with the check valve. I've had one on my car for a couple years and it hasn't clogged and still blocks flow from the IM to the VC. I did have an issue with the vaccuum line splitting this past summer and replaced the line, but it was 17 years old. The other benefit of the check valve is that you can use the $2 AutoZone PCV valves instead of the $8 OEM ones.

I'd definitely still do a boost leak test. You can't blow through a PCV valve very hard with your lungs, but your turbo will push 12psi. If you're popping your dipstick, I'd do the boost leak test and also a compression test. Excessive ring blow-by or valve stem seal leaks would increase crank case pressure and overwhelm the VC breather leading to a dipstick tube popping out.

If you own a turbo DSM, you should do boost leak tests regularly, at least once a year.
 
^^ Also: Compression and leak down tests. Great and really quick way to check an engines overall health.
 
Lol great advice guy! Sorry I haven't responded lately, but work has been crazy for me paycheck soon :) so this weekend I'll get everything I need
 
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