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turbo the n/t JDM 4g63?

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Mighty Mouse

15+ Year Contributor
38
0
Nov 6, 2003
The engine in my 90 GSX is getting close to that 200,000 mile mark and I want to buy an engine to replace it when this one blows. there is not really any thing wrong with it but I want to make it go faster and don't want to blow it and not have a spare engine siting in my garage. I was looking at JDM engines and the turbo 4G63 are $1200. then I thought why do I need to by a new engine with a turbo? I could just buy a non turbo JDM engine and bolt on the turbo parts from the engine I already have. my turbo is in excellent condition and I already have a JDM ECU.
My question is: is it safe to just bolt up a turbo to this JDM 4G63 170 hp engine? :thumb: :notgood: :confused: please I need some good advice. I don't want to blow two engines in a row. this is my daily driver.
 
first of all i would not buy a "jdm" motor.

think about it if i bought a new evo or 12 years ago a dsm and i knew i am only gonna put 30-40k miles on it id beat the living shit out of it.....


well any way i have a non turbo us motor i pout a turbo on running 8 psi . My afr before the wideband was like 17 under boost. for 5k miles no problems now i tuned it with a wide band.

gary knows soem one who ran 11's with a na motor. jsut make sure the tuning is good and u wont melt anything
 
sorry what do you mean by ran under 17 boost?
and do you know if it would be safe to just bolt on all the turbo parts from my old engin and hook it up to my curant ECU and run the stalk 12psi that my car normaly runs?
 
I have one of the "normal" n/a 4g63s in my talon. I got it for like $550 on Ebay. I'm running like 18 psi on the 9:1 stock pistons in it and it takes it like a champ. You really just have to take into account that higher compression isn't as forgiving to poor tuning as lower compression is.

Kent
 
Before, I use just an safc to tune with. I have done A LOT of logged pulls keeping that thing just on the rich side to stay safe. But I have water and alcohol injection to keep knock under control and to keep cylinder preessures lower so I can afford to lean it out just a little.

Kent
 
Kent-
i am kinda a novice so would it be better for me to just get some some 2g turbo or or evo pistons that have a lower compression? i could also put my turbo cams from out of my existing motor in also to be safer, or wold that mater?
 
Hell yeah man, if you have the money to get 2g 8.5:1 comp pistons do it. That would be pretty cool cause then you'd have the common build 1g rod 2g piston setup that so many people have been successful with. Remember that there is slight machining necessary to make the 2g pistons fit onto the 1g rods.

Another thing you should be aware of though is that the n/a blocks do not have oil squirters.

Kent
 
Kent-
Sorry this is kind of off the topic but I had a look at your gallery and noticed you had white face gauges with matching boost and a/f gauges. Are they reverse? I mean do the numbers light up only or do the backgrounds light up? If so where did you find the boost and a/f gauges? I have white face reverse gauges in my car also and I have been searching like a crazy man trying to find gauges to match.
 
I think the brand on those was like AC or something like that. I got them at a local tuner shop. I wouldn't recommend them though. I got rid of them b/c the boost gauge randomly decided to break one day and the af ratio gauge was stupid. It didn't have any numbers so it wasn't specific enough for me as most aren't.

Kent

PS: sorry for the rediculously old pics in my gallery.
 
dsmpride said:
Hell yeah man, if you have the money to get 2g 8.5:1 comp pistons do it. That would be pretty cool cause then you'd have the common build 1g rod 2g piston setup that so many people have been successful with. Remember that there is slight machining necessary to make the 2g pistons fit onto the 1g rods.

Another thing you should be aware of though is that the n/a blocks do not have oil squirters.

Kent

what kind of machining? do i have to machine the rod or the piston?
i work at a machine shop right now so that might not be so bad. :thumb:
 
I think that the rod needs to be narrowed slightly where the pin goes through and the hole where the pin goes through needs to be slightly bigger. But don't take my word for it, I've never had it done. But I'm sure that if you work at a machine shop you can figure out what needs to be done because the modifications are not that extensive.

Kent
 
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