Turbo question as far as breaking in Engine

[nightspeed87]

Im going to break in my new 6bolt with the motoman techniques by the way
of breaking it in sort of hard ( not like redlineing it hard, but not babying it either)
to help seat the rings fully to keep full compression.
But besides that, was told by a wiseman that every engine he broke in basically
messed up the turbo on that engine. I imagen it was from all the loose metal "break in" shavings floating around in the engine and making their way up into the turbo itself.
I have a new 14b going on with the motor and certainly dont want to mess it up,
therefore I am concerned about breaking it in with that. Was told to find some junk turbo to break it in with and if it is that big a deal I def. will... ( and can a junk p.o.s. turbo harm anything? )
Just wanted to hear any different view point, or just a toll of different things and expierences with the turbo from breaking in an engine...
By the way I Also thought of breaking it in all motor with reg. non turbo headers/ or manifold, which seems easy, but was also told that boost actually helps seats the rings better/faster....

 

[nightspeed87]

Every motor my buddies and I have ever rebuilt has had the oil changed almost immediatley, no driving. We ususally start the motor, check for leaks let it run for about 5 min then shut it down. Change the oil, then go and give it hell.

Thats good to hear, but thats contradictive to the motoman tech-
he says you arent suppose to let it idle at all during ring seating period
But I guess since you drove it hard after the oil change i guess it still works out.
I may let it idle for a couple mins with a few revs then change the oil myself.
Can you confirm any compression numbers, and turbo longevity with your
experience.

 

[andymoraitis]

Warming and idling the motor for five minutes to heat everything up while checking for leaks is sound advice. After the oil change, commence the break in procedure. What the article is referring to is that the motor shouldn't be started and idled until you're ready to break it in. Failure to warm it up properly while beating on it will contribute to blowby instead.

 

[HustlerTalon]

Thats good to hear, but thats contradictive to the motoman tech-
he says you arent suppose to let it idle at all during ring seating period
But I guess since you drove it hard after the oil change i guess it still works out.
I may let it idle for a couple mins with a few revs then change the oil myself.
Can you confirm any compression numbers, and turbo longevity with your
experience.

I don't think its contradictive at all. The car will take a few minutes to warm up anyways, whether its 3 minutes or 5 minutes, its not going to make a difference. Just don't let it idle there for half an hour. . I too am going to break in my motor soon. I am just waiting for Slowboy to ship it any day now. I did my research and will do the motoman break in procedure...I was also concern about using my new gt30r while i break in the motor so i was adviced to buy a 14b at my local junk yard...and now that i read this thread, i might go with race gas during the initial 20-30miles hard break in just to eliminate all my knock if I don't get my water injection in time.

 

[nightspeed87]

I don't think its contradictive at all. The car will take a few minutes to warm up anyways, whether its 3 minutes or 5 minutes, its not going to make a difference. Just don't let it idle there for half an hour. . I too am going to break in my motor soon. I am just waiting for Slowboy to ship it any day now. I did my research and will do the motoman break in procedure...I was also concern about using my new gt30r while i break in the motor so i was adviced to buy a 14b at my local junk yard...and now that i read this thread, i might go with race gas during the initial 20-30miles hard break in just to eliminate all my knock if I don't get my water injection in time.

only reason i was worried about knock was because of boost creep, but i mean if you have more mods than me to control boost just keep it low.

Warming and idling the motor for five minutes to heat everything up while checking for leaks is sound advice. After the oil change, commence the break in procedure. What the article is referring to is that the motor shouldn't be started and idled until you're ready to break it in. Failure to warm it up properly while beating on it will contribute to blowby instead.

makes sense... Well glad I asked, I have a lot better understanding on breaking in my motor now since this thread.

Another quick question, does the clutch and flywheel need to be reseated after every time you take it off the crank shaft before driving again even if its an old clutch or flywheel thats been broken in before? ( Took off clutch and flywheel asembly during engine build so I can install new lightened Aluminum flywheel on )
I know your not suppose to get on your car hard while seating clutches/flywheels, but that will interfere with breaking in the motor with the motoman techniques kind of? I figured so far that I can still get on it hard ( not too high in the revs like 5k or something, just enough to get full boost going ) And im under the impression that as long as I dont launch or shift too fast or something that the clutch and flywheel will be ok during this time?

 

[HustlerTalon]

I am going to keep my rpms under 4.5k with the motoman method on a brand new 2600lb clutch...as long as you don't go high on the rpms and don't shift like a mad man everything should be ok.

 

[1gcrazy]

Ok, i pretty much got tired of reading about half way through, so if someones already said this I appologize.

Do you think mitsubishi supplied a dumby turbo for every TEL they sold and made sure the new owner replaced it after 2000 miles?

Just slap on that new turbo and change the oil very very frequently. I also like the inline filter idea(filter from the pan to the turbo...).

If a 1g turbo will last up to 100k on some cars from the factory...why do anything different? I'm not sure if Mitsu breaks in the motors before sending them out but if youre genuinely worried about the problem. Call mitsu and ask how they break in their evo motors.

Just my .02.

 

[nightspeed87]

Ok, i pretty much got tired of reading about half way through, so if someones already said this I appologize.

Do you think mitsubishi supplied a dumby turbo for every TEL they sold and made sure the new owner replaced it after 2000 miles?

Just slap on that new turbo and change the oil very very frequently. I also like the inline filter idea(filter from the pan to the turbo...).

If a 1g turbo will last up to 100k on some cars from the factory...why do anything different? I'm not sure if Mitsu breaks in the motors before sending them out but if youre genuinely worried about the problem. Call mitsu and ask how they break in their evo motors.

Just my .02.

yea i guess it wouldnt hurt to ask but only reason this thread was brought up was because a wiseman told me on every motor he's broken in, the turbo didnt last too long.... So therefore hearing it from him I got worried about it. Id think mitsu changes the oil after start up and then leaves it to you to break in after wards...

 

[VanIsleDSM]

I'd be interested to know what they do, I dunno about mitsu but when I used to detail we'd get new car packages (GM and Kia contracts), gotta take off all the plastic and clean it up from it's journey, train brake dust and whatnot.. that's ugly stuff.. anyway they only ever had 8-15km on them, so that's not broken in in the car..

 

[1gcrazy]

Yeah, I used to be a salesman and always got to drive cars with only 3 miles and what not...