turbo head on non turbo block? Car wont idle?

[herms99gst]

How can u telll the difference between the head on a turbo car and n/t car? My buddy just bought a 91 non-turbo and its barely ideling, and takes forever to start. I was just wondering if the non turbo head would cause this problem? The head has the bolt for the turbo feed line, and the motor has been out...no bolts on the driverside motor mounts. But for 100 dollars it was a steal. The valve cover is silver with red lettering, like a turbo head. And the manifold has the rivets in it like the turbo intake manifold. And if it is a turbo head, would you just have to replace the ecu and wiring harness to convert it completly?

 

[Colt4G63 also]

Exact same head. The only difference is the cam grind. The lifters are probably all pumped full of oil and need to bleed down a bit so the valves fully shut. Have you let it sit overnight yet since the head was assembled?

 

[Durdamax]

i would also assume that with the different cam grind and no air being "helped" in by a turbo that this would affect the idle??? i would probably...
1.) adjust the idle screw up so it will idle without stalling. and possibly deal with a slightly rough idle, or...

2.) put the correct cams in out of a N/A car. or...

3.) just put some boost to it and be done with it.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

Boost isn't pushing air at idle, so I doubt switching it to turbo will solve anything but slowness.

You might want to check valve timing and make sure the harmonic balancer isn't slipped before you set spark timing. But if the cams were off the head recently, refer to my first answer.

 

[Durdamax]

your valves would still be opening/closing at the incorrect time, for timing, injecto pulse, air/fuel ratio, etc. would still say put the right cams in to make it right.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

Who knows, he probably did put the right cams on it, and that's probably why the lifters are all sprung out. Once they pop out, it can take forever for them to hydraulically adjust on their own, given that they are all full of oil.

 

[Oliver@Slowboy]

your valves would still be opening/closing at the incorrect time, for timing, injecto pulse, air/fuel ratio, etc. would still say put the right cams in to make it right.

My 2g ran fine for a year and a half with a NA 6 bolt head/cams in it.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

^^^^ See proof^^^ Same damn head for all intents and purposes.

 

[Oliver@Slowboy]

^^^^ See proof^^^ Same damn head for all intents and purposes.

Yeah, same thing. The only differences I have found are the cams (no brainer) the bolt that blocks off your turbo feed and the thing where you would put your "HLA" no idea what it is called but on the NA cars it has a couple inch long canister (for lack of a better word) on the bottom of it and the turbo heads have nothing on the bottom. all your valves, springs, retainers, lash adjusters, ect are all the same. I didn't change any of it on mine, car ran beautiful until I pulled the engine out.

The head is not your issue. Check timing, is it running fine at part throttle?

 

[herms99gst]

Once you get the car started you have to keep on the gas to keep it runninng. he took it down the road and back....i told him not to just in case the timing was off....and he said it pulled hard. Once you let off the gas it will slowly idle down untill it stalls. The fuel is getn to the injectors, and we are obviously getn spark...Could the injectors be clogged? If so how would you check? And this may be a dumb ? but i looked at the cam gears, and the timing marks look to be all out of whack. Shouldnt the intake and exhaust timing marks be 180 degrees opposite of eachoter? Meaning if the int. mark is facing the firewall, shouldnt the exh. one be facing the radiator, that way their would be a point where they meet? I ve never set timing b4 but that would make since, considering you have to have the marks lined up when timed.
dont know if cams have been out r ne thing...he just bought the car