tuning an evo3 16g with safc help needed

[blitzed97]

i need some help with my tuning on my car. it seems to be running rich. ive updated my mods in my profile so they are curent. i have some logs and i need to know about my fuel trims also. because my stft is set to 0 at idle and stays at zero through my pull however my ltft is set at -10 at idle and in the first part of my pull it goes to -12 then at about 4200rpm it goes to 0 also and they both stay at 0.
here are my logs

log 1 safc settings all on zero boost at 13 crepping to about 20 past 5500rpms

tps o2 timing rpm
100 .97 8 2707
100 1.00 6 2984
100 1.00 6 3343
100 1.00 9 3734
100 1.00 10 4113
100 1.01 9 4480
100 1.00 10 4800
100 1.00 10 5140
100 .97 13 5484
100 .87 15 5832
100 .56 15 6148
100 .37 15 6441
100 .25 15 6695


log 2 same boost safc settings 2500rpm -1 3000-5000rpm -2 6000rpm +1 7000rpm +2 these settings are after i saw the fist log and though i was running rich through the pull and leaning out after 5500

tps o2 timing rpm
100 .95 10 2890
100 .97 7 3207
100 .97 9 3648
100 1.00 10 4074
100 1.00 9 4496
100 1.00 10 4859
100 1.00 10 5207
100 .97 12 5589
100 .91 15 5910
100 .51 15 6277

to me it still looks like im running rich from 4000rpms to 5200rpms what might be causing this and should i turn up the boost or adjust my safc because i have read that you should not adjust you safc with the stock injectors. if you guys need any other info let me know. please dont get an attitude if im incorrect in doing what i did just let me know how i screwed up and what i have to do to fix it im still learning all this tuning stuff
thanks for any help you guys can give me and hopefully others can get an idea frm this thread too

 

[spyderturbo007]

FT's mean absolutely nothing at WOT. At WOT the ECU only really cares about airflow, barometric pressure, coolant temp, intake air temp, etc. It does not use the FT's in it's fuel calculation.

You shouldn't, unless your O2 sensor is shot, need to adjust the low throttle settings to correct the FT's unless you are on larger injectors. The ECU should do a fine job at taking care of the adjustments on it's own.

Just out of curiosity, why are you tuning when you haven't installed those 550cc injectors. You are pretty much wasting your time trying to adjust the stock fuel curve. You have to remember that the ECU does a very good job by itself. The ECU is actually one thing Mitsubishi got right! Other than the fact that they dropped the EPROM after 1995

No one is going to make fun of you or try to embarrass you because you are still learning. That's not what this forum is about.

EDIT> After posting I noticed that in your first log at about 5500 rpm your O2 voltage drops like a rock. Did you let up at 5500?

 

[blitzed97]

thanks for the reply, as for the injectors i bought some used rx7 injectors i know they will fit but they are used and im a little worried about them not all working correctly. as for the logs my o2 readings dropped while i was still 100% throttle. i think its from the boost creep. so without me putting in the injectors what do you suggest i do? continue tuning to get my o2s right or turn the boost up a little bit more to around 15psi?

 

[CanadianTSi]

You're pig rich until it starts to creep and then it goes real lean.

 

[blitzed97]

yea thats what i think to but what shoud i do about it?

 

[blitzed97]

also what would be causing it to be so rich? i would have been expecting it to run lean with the evo airflow being more than stock

 

[gman991057]

turbo size doesnt effect your lean/rich condition. air flow is air flow fuel cut is the only thing you might run into with the 16g

 

[blitzed97]

so wouldnt i have more airflow than stock so my so my air/fuel ratio should be leaner?

 

[WhiteCloud]

turbo size doesnt effect your lean/rich condition. air flow is air flow fuel cut is the only thing you might run into with the 16g

Not exclusively, no. But, larger turbo size, coupled with high boost (in this case, an evo 16g creeping to 20 psi or more) does make you run leaner. You can run into more problems than fuel cut with a 16g.

If I were the original poster, I would limit my wot pulls until those injectors are in. You are knocking fairly badly at 20 psi on pump gas and 450s. In the mean time, port the hell out of your o2 housing and try to reduce that boost creep issue. If I were you, I would take a few percent away from your 3k-5k rpm settings; leave those at -3% or something, with the rest at 0. Re-log, and see where you stand. Take more fuel away if necessary, but don't lean out up top any more than you already are. Ideally, you should have more than 15* of timing at 6500 rpm.

 

[blitzed97]

i put the 550ccinjectors in yesterday. ive got a prettyecent tune so far but now when i start the cr it takes about 6 cranks for the fuel to get to the engine to startup. but after sitting last night the car fired right up. but after its warm and has been sitting for at leats 15 mins. it takes a while to get fuel to the engine. it just started after the injector install. what can i do to fix this?

 

[Korndogg]

i put the 550ccinjectors in yesterday. ive got a prettyecent tune so far but now when i start the cr it takes about 6 cranks for the fuel to get to the engine to startup. but after sitting last night the car fired right up. but after its warm and has been sitting for at leats 15 mins. it takes a while to get fuel to the engine. it just started after the injector install. what can i do to fix this?

did you install a fuel pump? (recently?)
perhaps you ripped the Oring

 

[1fast97gsx]

did you install a fuel pump? (recently?)
perhaps you ripped the Oring

My car did this same thing after a 255 install but the O ring isn't damaged ... afpr is needed to eliminate this. ( me = rewired as well )

 

[blitzed97]

i have had the fuel pump installed for several weeks with no problems, his just started when i installed the injectors. could it be a torn oring on one of the injectors?

 

[WhiteCloud]

It's unlikely to be a torn ring on just one of the injectors; the car will still start running on 3 cylinders. If gas isn't injecting properly, you'll see it running down or squirting out around the intake mani.

Run a fuel system cleaner in your next tank of gas. The injectors could be clogged or not flowing optimally (if they were used). If that doesn't fix it, get them flow tested and cleaned professionally.

All of this is dependent on your AFC settings being correct enough for the car to run right...are you sure the settings themselves are not causing this problem?

 

[blitzed97]

i pulled my plugs to see how they looked and the no 4 plug was soaked in gas but not black like its fouled just fresh gas like the injector was constantly dripping into the cylinder. and if all the gas is running out of the fuel rail into that cylinder the car may start like you say but i think that not having the gas in the fuel rail when i start it is causing it to be pumped to the fuel rail and thats why it takes about 7-8 cranks to start. so does this mean that one injector is bad or could the oring or insulator being bad cause it to leak somehow? there is no smell of gas around the rail or injector and no sign of gas leaks either. its just leaking into the cylinder so should i put the old injectors back in and wait and buy some new injectors. i dont really want to spend the money to get these cleaned and tested because what ive read just getting these tested costs over 100.00 so i might as well buy new ones.

 

[yukondoit]

you could try cleaning it on your own, a singe 1.5 v battery, aa,aaa, c it doesnt matter but just one, wire to the injector to hold it open and shoot some carb clean through it. did for a buddy of mine with he bought used dsm 450's for his honduh.

 

[WhiteCloud]

i think that not having the gas in the fuel rail when i start it is causing it to be pumped to the fuel rail and thats why it takes about 7-8 cranks to start. so does this mean that one injector is bad or could the oring or insulator being bad cause it to leak somehow? there is no smell of gas around the rail or injector and no sign of gas leaks either. its just leaking into the cylinder so should i put the old injectors back in and wait and buy some new injectors. i dont really want to spend the money to get these cleaned and tested because what ive read just getting these tested costs over 100.00 so i might as well buy new ones.

If you don't think the problem is the injectors themselves, then troubleshoot elsewhere. You just posted that you think it is taking a long time for the fuel to get into the fuel rail; maybe you did not hook everything up properly after the injector install. Is your fpr working right?

Take a look for some used Evo8 560cc injectors in EvolutionM.net--most go for $100-150, depending on the seller.

 

[blitzed97]

i switched back to stock and everything is fine now. i will try cleaning that injector myself. but i think im going to try and find sone rc550 s thanks for the help guys