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Tuned Turbo Header!!

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Well i agree that MIG is better than TIG.. TIG is only good on light thin stuff.. but wouldln't a oxy accetline torch do even better then a mig?

not saying a mig is a weak weld... just I personaly like my welds that i do myself with a torch when posible,.. just i feel that i have more control over the weld.. although it's alot slower than a mig.. but anyway..
 
ok tig is the best... its just a matter of beveling the joints so that the bead penatrates the whole thing, and sometimes welders run dueal beads... i know that for like nuclear facility welds its all tig. also gas weldign woudl warp the hell out of those things.

hmm, i actualy was planing on getting the dnr mani, but yours would have to be amazingly reliable to sway me. also if anyone knows about physics which it seems some do, then cracking is really cause by the rapid expansion or contraction of metal due to fast heat change. and i know how nice the manifolds look but wraping them in in header wrap and what not will insulate them so that the cool off slower and arnt super cool on a winters day... also the turbo timer would not only alow the turbo to cool properly but also the manifold
 
I must say those are some nasty welds. For 300 I guess you get what you pay for. If you could make it look as good as something like this
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and sell it for 300 you would be a rich man and the king of the world! LOL
 
Originally posted by Yellow4g63
I must say those are some nasty welds. For 300 I guess you get what you pay for. If you could make it look as good as something like this
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and sell it for 300 you would be a rich man and the king of the world! LOL

i thought i was looking at an octupos at first.
 
Originally posted by larryd
So let me get this straight. You are going to steal the design from www.dnperformance.com (openly admitted) and your proud of this?

Not to mention you have the nerve to advertise this on DSMtuners obviously without reading the <A HREF="http://www.dsmtuners.com/termsofuse.php#rules">RULES</a> of the site..

"NO SPAM, advertising, or self promotion in the forums in any way - PERIOD.Vendors are encouraged to share their knowledge with our members in the forums, not talk about products they sell or services they provide. You should not post in the forums for the purpose of increasing your shops' revenue. "

I couldn't have said it better. Thank you.

Rules are rules there exploited...whether YOU like it or not. You even changed your story when someone else called you on stealing another design. You said "I never said stealing" yet that's exactly what you said.

A couple things I noticed looking through this thread...
-1.25" ID runners are entirely too small to make decent power with...
-300 dollars...that price is going to change very quickly when you figure out how much time goes into each manifold...
-3/16" thick material is entirely unnecessary if you just build some bracing into the manifold...anything thicker than .065 is a waste
-304 > 316
-MIG welded?? ugh...
-equal length does not = tuned

just my thoughts,
marshall

I agree Marshall, and to add to that, I would like to know what your manifold is "tuned" for? Is it a 4th order pulse header?

Before you go and run your mouth about "tuned" this and "tuned" that, I suggest you actually know what you are talking about, not everyone is stupid enough to just say "A tuned mani for $300? Whaaaa" Unfortunately there ARE a lot of people who would just buy that POS blindly.

For those saying MIG welding is better than TIG, I say you have a LOT to learn about metal fabrication and when each application applies best. I work for an aerospace manufacturer...we make parts for NASA, the Gov, and commercial airlines. You see NOTHING MIG welded here.

TIG welding keeps the integrity of the metal much better than MIG due to the nature of not intruducing much foreign material into the weld (I.E. Stick) and also allows for MUCH less contamination from the atmosphere.

Either way judging by the way you present yourself and the looks of your car and your garage, I wouldn't pay $50 for that manifold.
 
Any manifold made from carbon steel will break in very short order. I had a customer with one, after 1 season it was welded back 4 times in different places because of cracks.

This is generally not because it heats up and expands but just from the sheer weight of the turbo hanging off it that it makes it crack. Carbon steel is notorius for this and I would go as far as to say that I highly doubt any carbon steel manifold will last longer than 1 summer without some type of cracking problem.
 
you'll see it when its done... itll be different so really it wont be "stealing" there design.. anyways let me first finish one and get pics of it then we'll see what u all think of it. and on that header u posted pics of that u got.. looked TERRIBLE!!!!!! they couldve at least been decent enough to clean all the fricken spatter they left on it!!!!! i never seen so much spatter before.. my welder doesnt spatter at all! plus that guy just strait up couldnt weld.
 
Originally posted by JayHass

For those saying MIG welding is better than TIG, I say you have a LOT to learn about metal fabrication and when each application applies best. I work for an aerospace manufacturer...we make parts for NASA, the Gov, and commercial airlines. You see NOTHING MIG welded here.

TIG welding keeps the integrity of the metal much better than MIG due to the nature of not intruducing much foreign material into the weld (I.E. Stick) and also allows for MUCH less contamination from the atmosphere.


well since i dont know a LOT about metelurgy (guess thats how you spell it) then i'll take your word on that..

i just know how to use a Arc, torch and Mig welder.. I do a good job if i say so myself.. but thats on thick steel normaly i dont think i have realy ever weleded on anything thiner than 1/8" soo :shhh:

what you said makes perfect since.. it was just from my experiance (never used a TIG before) i just have heared it is similer to brazeing so i figured it's jsut wleded the top of the metal and not sinking down fuseing the too.. so i was thinking it's weaker.. well anyway
 
Originally posted by RipperXX



well since i dont know a LOT about metelurgy (guess thats how you spell it) then i'll take your word on that..

It's all good. :)

but thats on thick steel normaly i dont think i have realy ever weleded on anything thiner than 1/8" soo :shhh:

Yep, in that application I can see MIG and or Arc being a good choice.

i just have heared it is similer to brazeing so i figured it's jsut wleded the top of the metal and not sinking down fuseing the too.. so i was thinking it's weaker.. well anyway

Oh no, nothing like brazing. You basically create an arc and melt the two adjoining surfaces into a puddle and create a super strong and super clean bead that pretty much resembles as if the weld never existed. (From a metalurgical standpoint anyway)

The only problem with TIG is it's real easy to not push the "puddle" along quick enough and blow a hole in the work you are doing. Not that I've done that or anything. OMG ;)
 
Your shop cars consist of a a civic, cavalier, and talon that scream rice. NO dyno results, no track times, hell no proof that any of the cars even RUN period. Wow I'm really impressed so far :rolleyes:

Your car doesn't even have any real mods, what makes you think you can design parts for cars making 400hp when your car won't break 13s at the track?
It would be nice if you could post using something that more closely resembles english also. When reading a post on the internet that is your only way to make a first impression. You're not giving off a signal of intelligence writing like that.

The collectors on your current manifolds are TERRIBLE. These are what real collectors look like:
http://www.burnsstainless.com/MergeCollectors/TurboCollectors/turbocollectors.html
Notice the price, that's how much skilled work costs.

Anybody can pick up a welder, tubing, and try to rip off current products. It takes experience, knowledge, and intelligence to make a product that not only last, but actually makes power. Judging by your current products and posts on this board you lack ALL of those.
 
eXploitedGST, if you own a company shouldn't you be registered as a vendor on this site? seems kinda shady to me.
 
Originally posted by NDgsx
Your shop cars consist of a a civic, cavalier, and talon that scream rice. NO dyno results, no track times, hell no proof that any of the cars even RUN period. Wow I'm really impressed so far :rolleyes:

Your car doesn't even have any real mods, what makes you think you can design parts for cars making 400hp when your car won't break 13s at the track?
It would be nice if you could post using something that more closely resembles english also. When reading a post on the internet that is your only way to make a first impression. You're not giving off a signal of intelligence writing like that.

The collectors on your current manifolds are TERRIBLE. These are what real collectors look like:
http://www.burnsstainless.com/MergeCollectors/TurboCollectors/turbocollectors.html
Notice the price, that's how much skilled work costs.

Anybody can pick up a welder, tubing, and try to rip off current products. It takes experience, knowledge, and intelligence to make a product that not only last, but actually makes power. Judging by your current products and posts on this board you lack ALL of those.

OWN3D
 
I wouldn't consider him that bad of a ricer. He makes headers and turbo kits not aluminum bi plane wings and vinyl graphics. I give him credit for trying however the "stealing" part was pretty bad. I see a lot of people in here saying, well this is how it should be done and at my work we do this and these are the proper materials to use etc.

I wish that one of you with all this knowledge of metal, welding, temperature, etc would step up and make a quality product that actually works.... and for a smokin price. Like one guy said, you'd be rich.

So I say let this guy make his copied mani out of different materials and sell it for 300 bucks. If it has a warranty I will buy one, abuse the sh it out of it and if it breaks, get my money back one way or another. Then I will just go and pick up a good old tried and true, but ugly, 2g mani at a junkyard and have 200 bucks leftover to spend on beer and race gas. ;)
 
Your going to break studs if you dont make the #1 and #4 flange holes larger to allow for expansion. An alternative is to cut the flange between runners. I've never seen anyone cut the flange around the studs like you did.
 
Originally posted by 4ged4G63
Then I will just go and pick up a good old tried and true, but ugly, 2g mani at a junkyard and have 200 bucks leftover to spend on beer and race gas. ;)

Sounds like a plan to me.......

You can't just copy a design and expect it to work perfectly like the one you copied. Companies have LOTS of cash involved in testing these manifolds to make sure they work correctly.

And I 'm sorry but I really wouldn't take someone too serious who has that bad of an ill-fitting and unpainted kit on their dsm.......

Good luck though.....
 
don't mean to sound like i support this guy or anything (i've suspended judgement), but you're bashing work that's not his if you're referring to the link posted by twitch
 
I just thought this was funny...

His first post:

heres a pic of the header im stealing the design from....

Then once he got bashed for stealing the design... every post after had some variation of this statement in it:


im not stealing the design... geeze... i said mine was going to look like it...
 
Originally posted by 4ged4G63
I wish that one of you with all this knowledge of metal, welding, temperature, etc would step up and make a quality product that actually works.... and for a smokin price. Like one guy said, you'd be rich.

That's just it though. Get it? You get what you pay for...period.

Some of our basic fasteners cost over $50. To put that in English, you would pay $50 for what is really just a bolt with some features machined in.

So why does a bolt cost $50? It holds the prop on a C-130 and CAN'T fail. Lots of engineering, super high quality material go into it. It's not your average bolt. ARP's stuff wouldn't pass our Q.C. department, and that's considered "high grade" and "expensive".

As the saying goes: Cheap, Reliable, Fast...pick any two.

I'm not knocking the guy for trying. What bothers me is the way he presents himself and the way he goes about it.
 
Originally posted by JayHass
I'm not knocking the guy for trying. What bothers me is the way he presents himself and the way he goes about it.

I think that's what it comes down to. I'm not worried about trying new things. In fact I have no problem being the "guinea pig", but only if this company is a respectable one. You came across as some kid who just picked up welding equipment, some metal flanges and some piping.

I think if you would have created the product first, TESTED and RESEARCHED your product with the facts at hand, and presented yourself correctly, your response here would have been much better.

May I suggest after school today (my guess, since you sound like you're still in school) you pick up some books on business, etc. (not to mention and english book or two)

Good luck, it's hard to make a better image of yourself once you've been shit on by the most important members on the board; the moderators and the people with money.
 
Originally posted by 4ged4G63

I wish that one of you with all this knowledge of metal, welding, temperature, etc would step up and make a quality product that actually works.... and for a smokin price. Like one guy said, you'd be rich.

It seems to me like DN's manifold is a nice design, good quality, and a good price. You really can't imagine how much time goes into one of those manifolds - expecting anyone to make a quality manifold for 300 dollars is absolutely ridiculous.

Marshall
 
I see what both you guys are sayin, Jay, Marshall. It would be nice to have a beautiful looking header for our cars that can offer more performance than a ported 2g. However if we look at the majority of the fastest dsm's aren't they using just a stock mani? If not an SFP, or two others I can't think of. And someone I know already sent their SFP back for crack repair...they've only had it about 4 months.

I like the looks of the dnperformance one but am having a hard time justifying the price with all this talk of cracking aftermarket headers.

does anyone on the board or related dsm board have/use a dnp header?
 
To help extend manifold's life you could fabricate a bracket for your DP just like stock that bolts up to the block and helps support the turbo.
 
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