Tubular manifold question

[mikevar94]

Hey so I have a tubular manifold on my gsx. I know it's normal for them to get hot because they are thinner but is it normal that it heats up my engine bay? The dip stick literally burns when you touch it. I've heard it's normal but I just need a second opinion. Also since its so hot after a long drive the bay just smells like heated metal and doesn't smell very good. Normal with a tubular manny? Oh and after I drive i look to see if its glowing and it's kinda of hard to tell. If it were glowing and getting too hot wouldn't it be really glowing hardcore and obvious? I'm just so paranoid because before I had a bad maf sensor and the manny was glowing red hot so now every time I smell the heat building up I look at it to make sure it's not and i can't tell if its the color of the manifold changing from the heat or if its actually glowing.

 

[Blue Talon Boy]

Tubular manifolds are lighter, which means less metal. I had one on my Talon for a while until a couple of the welds went. Mine would glow orange after a pull. They tend to raise engine bay temps for 2 reasons: they don't have the mass to contain the heat, and they don't have heat shields. That gives you two options to address it: put the stock manifold and heat shields on or, exhaust wrap the current manifold.

 

[tunermatt15]

You can also burn the paint on the hood if the hood isnt insulated

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Is it an ebay bought manifold? I have a tubular manifold and a carbon finer hood, nothing melts. Not even the 2g rad hose 1/4 inch from #4

Oh and mine doesnt glow red, it's a sch10 thickness. With an hx40 hanging off it.

 

[Apache]

Tubular manifolds are lighter, which means less metal. I had one on my Talon for a while until a couple of the welds went. Mine would glow orange after a pull. They tend to raise engine bay temps for 2 reasons: they don't have the mass to contain the heat, and they don't have heat shields. That gives you two options to address it: put the stock manifold and heat shields on or, exhaust wrap the current manifold.[/QUOTE]

Another option would be to send the manifold off and have it ceramic coated. However, this option assumes that you have a manifold that is worth putting more money into. If it's just an eBay special I'd just wrap it like Blue Talon Boy said. But if it's actually a good manifold with good welds and solid flanges, I'd invest in a ceramic coating of some kind. If that's not enough, you can always wrap it after that too.

 

[Blue Talon Boy]

Another option would be to send the manifold off and have it ceramic coated. However, this option assumes that you have a manifold that is worth putting more money into. If it's just an eBay special I'd just wrap it like Blue Talon Boy said. But if it's actually a good manifold with good welds and solid flanges, I'd invest in a ceramic coating of some kind. If that's not enough, you can always wrap it after that too.

The only reason I did not suggest the ceramic coat, is Forced Performance actually suggests against it. They claim that coating it can actually shorten service life by 75%.

 

[AWDtalontsi96]

Id heat wrap it. I have a punishment racing hot kit and its a gorgous manifold. but even being a high dollar manifold it still heats up under the hood of my talon. After wrapping it hug difference in under hood temps. Plus keeping the exhaust gas super heated even more your flow will increase some which will lessen the affect of turbo lag.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

The only reason I did not suggest the ceramic coat, is Forced Performance actually suggests against it. They claim that coating it can actually shorten service life by 75%.

Source?

 

[YzRacer119]

I'd double wrap it then spray it wit "dei" heat wrap sealant.

 

[boost97gst]

Source?

Very recent in the vendor announcements section. I read it too

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Yah, where

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

The only reason I did not suggest the ceramic coat, is Forced Performance actually suggests against it. They claim that coating it can actually shorten service life by 75%.

Ceramic coating a header is about the same as running a cast mani. Fp manifolds are coated and they sell turbo blankets and manifold blankets all of which do the same job ceramic coating does. If its a cheapo header yeah it probably will crack faster holding in the heat. I proper header will be fine though.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

Is it an ebay bought manifold? I have a tubular manifold and a carbon finer hood, nothing melts. Not even the 2g rad hose 1/4 inch from #4

Oh and mine doesnt glow red, it's a sch10 thickness. With an hx40 hanging off it.

Mine doesn't burn anything around it either. I've had my turbine glowing red before.

 

[mikevar94]

Yeah unfortunately it's just an ebay header(got it because I was in desperate need and didn't have the money for a good one). I dunno if I wanna wrap it tho because everyone says it'll crack. Anyone think it'll be fine the way it is until I get something better? Or is the heat dangerous for the other in bay components. Btw I can feel a little of the heat when I rest my leg against the center console in the drivers foot area

 

[T is for TURBO]

The only reason I did not suggest the ceramic coat, is Forced Performance actually suggests against it. They claim that coating it can actually shorten service life by 75%.

That quote was regarding a CAST manifold not a tubular

The simple act of coating does not void the warranty but depending on the usage of the part coating may shorten the life span of the part by as much as 75%.

-Michael

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

Yeah unfortunately it's just an ebay header(got it because I was in desperate need and didn't have the money for a good one). I dunno if I wanna wrap it tho because everyone says it'll crack. Anyone think it'll be fine the way it is until I get something better? Or is the heat dangerous for the other in bay components. Btw I can feel a little of the heat when I rest my leg against the center console in the drivers foot area

Best thing to do is get some metal rods or something to make supports on the mani. That may help it last alil longer.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Source?

here http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/vendor-announcements/467993-our-summer-specials.html

ive got a tubular manifold and it does make it very hot under there. if you have the stock rad it makes the top neck brittle and snap in the end!

i am currently looking to buy a FP cast manifold and just have a blanket over it to help lower some temps for racing a bit, tubulars are good but im am going for function over looks now

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Yah thats talking about fp's cast manifold.

Ive
Also got an oem plastic rad, as log as you oil the plastic it wot crack.


Also, if your going for finction, a tubular is better because of the long runners, creates more
Velocity going into the turbine housing. If tubular manifolds werent functional, why would they exist. (Rhetorical)

 

[RWD4G63]

Ceramic coating a header is about the same as running a cast mani.

This is a bit too general of a statement for me. A thickwall tubular manifold will actually transfer less heat into the bay because stainless is a much better insulator than cast iron.

i am currently looking to buy a FP cast manifold and just have a blanket over it to help lower some temps for racing a bit, tubulars are good but im am going for function over looks now

A proper, thickwall tubular manifold will function and look better than a cast iron manifold. Not only will it get more heat to the turbine, but if it has a collector that's worth a dang, it'll outflow it as well.

Unfortunately for the DSM crowd, I don't think anyone currently makes a quality tubular manifold for stock-flanged turbos. I'll have to see if we can get some made up here at the shop.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

I can make them, STM can make them im sure you can too, with what ever flange you want... But why would you stay with dsm flange if your buying a nice manifold. (Most dsmers think this way) You have so many more options with open t3... Believe me i used to think like that id stay dsm flange, had an scm6152, anf a bolt pn .55AR hx40 and i had a DNP tubular manifold (still have it not being used ) and it looked great and flowed great, but i was only stuck with either stock turbos, large turbos small turbine housings... Or FP dsm turbks which IMO is pretty up there in price...and still only one option AR turbine housing (.68)

 

[Jon91TSi]

This is a bit too general of a statement for me. A thickwall tubular manifold will actually transfer less heat into the bay because stainless is a much better insulator than cast iron.



A proper, thickwall tubular manifold will function and look better than a cast iron manifold. Not only will it get more heat to the turbine, but if it has a collector that's worth a dang, it'll outflow it as well.

Unfortunately for the DSM crowd, I don't think anyone currently makes a quality tubular manifold for stock-flanged turbos. I'll have to see if we can get some made up here at the shop.

ORLY?

DSM Stock Replacement 7CM Exhaust Manifold - JM Fabrications

 

[Archer Fabrications]

So what happens when you need T3 and just spent the same amount on a bolton setup.

 

[Jon91TSi]

So what happens when you need T3 and just spent the same amount on a bolton setup.

You spend the same price on a t3 manifold and make the mitsu flanged manifold wall art.

 

[RWD4G63]

JMfab one looks nice, I'd probably stick with 1.25in schedule 10 stuff though.

I don't really understand why anyone runs an open flange at all anymore.

Twin-scroll blows everything out of the water, and if you're upgrading, why not?

 

[Jon91TSi]

JMfab one looks nice, I'd probably stick with 1.25in schedule 10 stuff though.

I don't really understand why anyone runs an open flange at all anymore.

Twin-scroll blows everything out of the water, and if you're upgrading, why not?

I whole heartedly agree, however some turbo manufacturers do not offer their turbos in divided t3, my 6766 for instance is only offered in open t3. They do offer it in divided t4, but that really doesn't benefit me.

I would take a t3 manifold over a mitsu flanged manifold any day of the week.