92AWDTalonTSI
10+ Year Contributor
- 334
- 5
- Jun 2, 2010
-
Somonauk,
Illinois
Ok, I bought a 1992 TSI auto and it is stuck in limp mode. We located the TCU and opened it up. No leaking caps and no foul odors. So I'm assuming it is good. The 4 A/T fuse is good also. tested the power wire on the TCU and we had power. The transmission does not shift hard into drive or reverse and there are no metal shavings in the transmission fluid. Nor does it have any metallic shine. We checked the transmission fluid and it is over filled. The fluid comes up about 4 inches past the "Full" mark. Also the oil and coolant light is on.
Is there any correlation between these lights and the limp mode?
Or even just the high amount of ATF?
Solenoid A and B inside the transmission is the next thing we are looking at. It there any way we can check to see it they are functioning before cracking the case? Also someone mentioned the harness going to the transmission could be wicked up with transmission fluid and causing errors.
Would you recommend looking into anything else?
Also, as I'm new to the DSM scene. I was wondering if the oil soaked hood is normal. The PO said the head gasket went out and the big turbo they had on the car had to be replaced as well. They purchased a JY head and had it refurbished. And replaced the big turbo with a stock TD05H I believe. The lines going to and from the turbo (Hard lines) are soaked in oil. The turbo is brand new. The motor also vibrates when you let off the throttle. Maybe caused by a loose timing tensioner?
Other than that it is a solid car. Minimal rust in front of the back tire and one little spot on the hood.
Let me know if you have any concerns. I want to drive this car as an every day driver.
^^----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Original Post------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------^^
I've decided to alter this post more as informational than requesting help. As no one can help me I am narrowing the problems down one by one and I am going to post them above with all sorts of information. Since this appears to be a common problem I hope I can help everyone else all the while solving my problems.
Causes for limp mode:
Pulse Generators A and B.
Throttle Positioning Sensor.
Connector 1 (4pin) (*A51* in 2nd diagram below) (*A39* on Alldata) is to the Pulse Generator.
Colors: Black, White, Green, Red.
Connector 2 (1pin) (*A38* in 2nd diagram below) (*A38* on Alldata) is to the Kick Down Servo.
Colors: Brown with Green.
Connector 3 (3pin) (*A37* in 2nd diagram below) (*A37* on Alldata) is to the AT Fluid Temp Sensor.
Colors: Light Yellow, Brown with Red, Brown with Blue.
You can test the pulse generators on Connector 1. For PGA check the resistance between pins 1 and 2. For PGB check the resistance between pins 3 and 4. Both should read out from 215 to 275 ohms *With a cold transmission*.
To test the TPS, Pull the connector and inspect the pins for debris or gunk. With a multimeter, ground the negative probe to the chassis and probe pin 1 with the positive lead. Turn the ignition on. It should read 4-5 volts. Now with the ignition still on jump pin 1 with pin 2. Ground the negative probe to the chassis and probe pin 4 with the positive lead. If you have 4-5 volts your TPS is bad. If not your TCU is bad. To double check the TPS it should output a standard value of 0.48 - 0.52 volts.
Here are the diagrams.
I will elaborate more on everything after I check more information and crawl around my car more
After further investigation. The transmission was not in limp mode. I took the car out yesterday and I have no issues so far. I just have to figure out why it makes a grinding noise when I let off the throttle. ^^^ The above information could help someone and if I have time after solving my other problems I will finish the post.
Is there any correlation between these lights and the limp mode?
Or even just the high amount of ATF?
Solenoid A and B inside the transmission is the next thing we are looking at. It there any way we can check to see it they are functioning before cracking the case? Also someone mentioned the harness going to the transmission could be wicked up with transmission fluid and causing errors.
Would you recommend looking into anything else?
Also, as I'm new to the DSM scene. I was wondering if the oil soaked hood is normal. The PO said the head gasket went out and the big turbo they had on the car had to be replaced as well. They purchased a JY head and had it refurbished. And replaced the big turbo with a stock TD05H I believe. The lines going to and from the turbo (Hard lines) are soaked in oil. The turbo is brand new. The motor also vibrates when you let off the throttle. Maybe caused by a loose timing tensioner?
Other than that it is a solid car. Minimal rust in front of the back tire and one little spot on the hood.
Let me know if you have any concerns. I want to drive this car as an every day driver.
^^----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Original Post------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------^^
I've decided to alter this post more as informational than requesting help. As no one can help me I am narrowing the problems down one by one and I am going to post them above with all sorts of information. Since this appears to be a common problem I hope I can help everyone else all the while solving my problems.
Causes for limp mode:
Pulse Generators A and B.
Throttle Positioning Sensor.
Connector 1 (4pin) (*A51* in 2nd diagram below) (*A39* on Alldata) is to the Pulse Generator.
Colors: Black, White, Green, Red.
Connector 2 (1pin) (*A38* in 2nd diagram below) (*A38* on Alldata) is to the Kick Down Servo.
Colors: Brown with Green.
Connector 3 (3pin) (*A37* in 2nd diagram below) (*A37* on Alldata) is to the AT Fluid Temp Sensor.
Colors: Light Yellow, Brown with Red, Brown with Blue.
You can test the pulse generators on Connector 1. For PGA check the resistance between pins 1 and 2. For PGB check the resistance between pins 3 and 4. Both should read out from 215 to 275 ohms *With a cold transmission*.
To test the TPS, Pull the connector and inspect the pins for debris or gunk. With a multimeter, ground the negative probe to the chassis and probe pin 1 with the positive lead. Turn the ignition on. It should read 4-5 volts. Now with the ignition still on jump pin 1 with pin 2. Ground the negative probe to the chassis and probe pin 4 with the positive lead. If you have 4-5 volts your TPS is bad. If not your TCU is bad. To double check the TPS it should output a standard value of 0.48 - 0.52 volts.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Here are the diagrams.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
I will elaborate more on everything after I check more information and crawl around my car more
After further investigation. The transmission was not in limp mode. I took the car out yesterday and I have no issues so far. I just have to figure out why it makes a grinding noise when I let off the throttle. ^^^ The above information could help someone and if I have time after solving my other problems I will finish the post.
Last edited: