Trunk Project

[TRBOBLU]

I used 3M undercoating available at any auto parts store. From past experiences, Ive noticed it has the best spray pattern and still well. Once my interior pieces are trimmed to fit, Ill post the trunk with the interior in. Thanks for the comments.

 

[GSTinCO]

Your welds don't look that bad, especially if you've never welded aluminum. No roll of dimes but hey you take what you can get. How much weight do you think it cut out? Have you checked in with any racing sanctioning bodies to see if it will effect your class?

 

[TRBOBLU]

Maybe 2 pounds. Believe it or not that thin sheetmetal steel from the factory weighed quite a bit. The aluminum piece has a crossbrace welded on the underside for more support. So like I said maybe 2 pounds max. It looks amazing in person, and is alot stronger than the stock piece so I am very happy with the turn out.

 

[WMD]

Couldnt you have just ditched the cross brace and just put beads in the sheet. It would reduce the flexability and give it more strength to support the battery.

 

[jott5555]

i agree i would have ridged it as well for some support.. but whateva... looks nice.. side note ya should have painted it to match your car...

 

[logic]

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Hey, that looks familiar...

 

[Byrd]

So while we're on the topic of cutting out interiors, would it be harfull to the structural integrity if the metal in the back seat area was cut out as well?

And is there any hope for 1g awd's? I don't think we can do this to ours because of that hump.

 

[TRBOBLU]

I would not cut out the back seat metal if it were me. Would it hurt the structural integrity? I dont know, but is is nice to keep it because it has a nice body line and can be easily carpeted and look good. I know that what I cut out has in no way harmed anything because it was about as stiff as wet speghetti(spelling?) and rusted totally out. The 1g is just the reverse of the 2g. Where the 2g humps down the 1g humps up. I would see no reason why you couldn't cut it out like I did. (please pardon any grammar errors, Im a little toasted from a few pitchers at Fricker's).

 

[Byrd]

Thanks for the response. Keep up the good work! I'll be looking into this one

 

[zscheck]

I was wondering if you had a picture of the cross brace you put on it... I want to do this to my spyder and I want to keep the spare on an suv cable like some one suggested, ### I know the second that i get rid of my spare I'm gonna get a flat.

 

[motozachl]

Looks great TRBOBLU !!! I've been thinking about doing this myself as I have a tiny bit of rust, but perhaps doing it in fiberglass instead

 

[krackit]

haha. wow. revival of the dead.

 

[DashLaflash]

What gauge of sheet aluminum would be best for this? Also what are you guys doing for a windshild washer fluid reservoir after. I can't imagine running without one on a daily driver.

 

[thomcasey]

this seems like something that may benefit me greatly. I was just trying to figure out a way to do a fuel cell. Still on the stock re-wired pump. Have a 255 i would like to make use of and we all know of the great fun involved in trying to change a 1g pump. But while i was doing some measuring today the damn bubble for the spare tire was constantly in the way. Now i just need to figure out how to cut the floorpan out and make a similar plate. I lack the air tools that would help greatly. But i guess we shall see what I can do.

1G AWD pumps are very easy to change out. I have done several, only about a 20 minute job and you get to stand up doing it!! Now, the FWD 1g's are a different story.

The bump can be removed, but you will have to hammer down the gas tank too as it fills the bump, if you plan on keeping the stock tank.

 

[DashLaflash]

I found this in another thread the OP posted in: "Its 1/16" aluminum with one square support brace.
Pardon my crappy welding, this was my first time. This pic shows the one brace on the underside. And as stated before I can stand on it fine. I would stick with 1/16". The 1/8 was way to heavy and the 1/32 was like newspaper and would be impossible almost to weld unless you are pretty good."

I think it would be better to add a couple "ribs" (I don't know what they're really called. Some type of long dimple in the metal) down the center of the aluminum to add some strength instead of welding a square brace underneath.

I also think I found a solution for the windshield washer fluid reservoir. It's from a non turbo eclipse that has the rear wiper option. This reservoir only has one pump though but who needs the rear squirter anyways. I'm going to hook this up to my front squirter where I really need it.

 

[DirtyDave21]

very cool.. i covered my spare tire with a stop sign i had laying around.

 

[Red 4G63]

I'm also very interested in this idea. I know I'm bringing this back from the dead... again, but I can't help it. Cutting the spot welds for the jack and spare tire bracket have proved to be a HUGE PITA. I've already cut one hole in the tire well and the jack bracket it spot welded 13 times to the body... dumb. I've tried all methods of getting it out, none have been close to what I'm looking for. Seeing as though I'm running air ride on a Spyder, I now have no trunk space AT ALL. The 5gal tank takes up half the trunk and the one 12" sub with amp takes up the other half.... no room for my tool carry bag. I'm going to try and mock up a design that will allow me to build a "Fuel Cell" like tank for the air tank that plums flush to the floor. Hopefully this will give me more cubic air space in a tank and hide it at the same time. I figure the guys that build air ride trucks, that tuck their Fuel Cells in between the rear frame have started a trend that I would like to carry over into the import world, with air ride systems. A tank that sits under the car, flush to the floor and easy to remove has to be pretty sweet. I'll post back with information as I get it. Cost is a huge factor in this because I'm a broke A$$, like most DSM'ers.

Here is a pic of my concept. I hope it looks good, it was just a quick mock-up of the idea. If anyone has any questions or concerns, let me know. I don't have any experience with this extensive modding, so I won't be offended. Thanks.

 

[97ClipseGSX]

I have a bad hole in my trunk underneath where the spare tire goes, its about a foot long and all the edges are completely rusted. I was wondering whats the cheapest way to fix it and seal it up nicely?

 

[Stealth93]

Reminds me of my 89 Escort GT, cut a clean spare tire tray out of a junk car and tack welded it in every .5 to 1 inch and then covered it in NP1. From there I just undercoated it and looked almost like a factory seam.

 

[EAKEREAK]

Its good idea

 

[Boostinsideways]

I have a bad hole in my trunk underneath where the spare tire goes, its about a foot long and all the edges are completely rusted. I was wondering whats the cheapest way to fix it and seal it up nicely?

Cut it out and rivet/weld in aluminum or sheet metal. If you want to keep the original shape you will need to cut the trunk floor out of a dsm at a junkyard.

 

[Red 4G63]

So, just for a quick update. I didn't go with that idea for now... funds are too low and other things took priority over the project car. I did do some more work to the trunk and a lot of the pictures are up at my Cardomain site. So, if anyone would like to go check them out, here is the link...

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3223456/1997-mitsubishi-eclipse

Let me know what you think!