tried every thing-still over heaating help!!!1

[mopar4Life]

my car keeps over heating replaced old radiator hoses water pump and thermo stat but still over heats keeps coming out the over flow tank and i also have a new radiator cap so its not that and i have a afc and i run it a bit rich to keep it cooli am so lost oh yeah and i rebuilt the engine like 4k ago and it was a just a rering and a head job please help

 

[IronnFisTT]

in your first post, you said you have a new radiator cap, and now you are saying its a year old

if you got some cheap pepboy or autozone special radiator cap, its very likely that its not functioning properly anymore.

-attia
94 Tsi AWD
98 Supra Turbo

 

[Mugsy]

have you checked your heater core by any chance or drilling a little hole in the thermostat incase its not opening even tho it is new

 

[Enigma_Man]

Have you done a damn compression test yet? It's the simplest thing to do, and it will tell you if your head gasket was installed improperly.

Listen to what people are telling you. Just because it's new doesn't mean it's not broken.

-Jesse

 

[mopar4Life]

Originally posted by Enigma_Man
Have you done a damn compression test yet? It's the simplest thing to do, and it will tell you if your head gasket was installed improperly.

Listen to what people are telling you. Just because it's new doesn't mean it's not broken.

-Jesse

I already checked for compression and it's fine.

 

[IronnFisTT]

a compression test doesnt necessarily reveal a leaky head gasket. the compression on my car was perfect and the head gasket was leaking.

initially you said your radiator cap was new then went back and said its a year old, how many of those other parts you listed as new are old??? maybe you should go back and revisit the thermostat next.

-attia
94 Tsi AWD
98 Supra Turbo

 

[mopar4Life]

ok the radiator cap is about 6-7 months old which is pretty much new the radiator is 2 weeks old both hoses are brand new and i took out the 6 month old thermostat

 

[BUCK]

Originally posted by mopar4Life
ohh yeah and its a metal head gasket

BINGO!

 

[LandoAWD]

Originally posted by mopar4Life
hey dick wad you dont have to be a jack ass i already checked for compression and its fine

I recommend you don't do anything like this again.

 

[L2RTSiAWD]

Yes you can turn a very informative thread into a flamefest. All you have to is answer "I already checked it and it was fine" no insults needed.

 

[mopar4Life]

Sorry I apologize if I responded like an axx I was just in a bad mood cause I cant figure out what the problem is and could do with out some one demeaning me sorry again

 

[Morphius]

If you pop the cap while it is running, do you see any tiny bubbles? That can be a sign of a leaking head gasket.

 

[mopar4Life]

any ways im going tomorow to get a radiator cap tester i belive they rent them at auto zone they have preasure checkers that presurize the system by pump but stupid auto zone only has adapters for big necks like chevy and ford.

 

[jott5555]

this is a long shot but i would change your oil, when its draining and when it has drained look for bubbles or froth in the oil, this will quell ne head gasket issues. you can also get have a test done to see if you have oil in your water any shop should be able to do this test.

ok so next drain your cooling system. refill it to the best of your ability then turn the car on let it run with the rad cap off and have two gallons of coolant (premixed which u can buy) opened and ready. As the level of coolant goes down fill it slowly. and press the press gently in on the hoses so that any air bubbles get out. now fill and watch your car for about 15 min so that the thermostat has a chance to reach temp and open and suck the coolant into your engine block. gently press on the hoses during this whole process so that air bubbles dislodge.

mabey when the system is empty replace the thermostat if u feel the need make sure your fans are engageing at the correct temps.

i know its a long shot buy your heater core may also be blown. mine went and i didnt get any water or anything in the interrior i had no clue till a shop figured it out. it is possable to have a compresson test done on the cooling system to see if it has a leak or slow leak, have one done and make sure.

these are just a couple ideas good luck

 

[GTM]

Originally posted by mopar4Life
any ways im going tomorow to get a radiator cap tester i belive they rent them at auto zone they have preasure checkers that presurize the system by pump but stupid auto zone only has adapters for big necks like chevy and ford.

Has the shooting stoped??

What would be great is an extension for the radiator fill for it's probably difficult to get a good block check with the water rushing right past the opening. Maybe that adapter will extend the Block Check up enough to keep if free from the water wash. While you are testing plain water is fine. The fact it turned green tells me you DO have a gasket leak. There is no place else to get CO in the system.

Will the engine boil only when being driven? If so about the only choices you have are to drive it with the Block check plugged in somehow or to put it on a dyno and test it under load.
............

You could measure the cap to seal distance and compare it with a factory cap. The problem with some of these cap testers is they have a 1 size fits all mentality. Thus if the depth from the cap seal to the actual pressure seal is not correct for your cap it can test good but when seated it's only giving a couple lbs pressure. It's critical to know what it's supposed to be and what you have. Some manuals will give that spec in the cooling system section.
...................

The fact the solution turns green is saying yes there is a leak but it's been my experience this is not enough to cause what you are experiencing. Wish I could be of more help but I'm running out of ideas. Let us know what happens with the cap tester and if you can use that extender / adapter to get some distance from the tool yet have the system filled.

Cheers,
GTM

 

[mopar4Life]

is there a posibiltiy that a clog in a heater core could be the problem if so is there a way to bypass the heater core to take it out of the cooling system all together i am positive im not leaking any where besides the over flow when it gets really hot. I filled it up yester day and drove it around and it was fine but when i drive it for prolonged peroids of time it has problems.

 

[GTM]

Originally posted by mopar4Life
is there a posibiltiy that a clog in a heater core could be the problem if so is there a way to bypass the heater core to take it out of the cooling system all together i am positive im not leaking any where besides the over flow when it gets really hot. I filled it up yester day and drove it around and it was fine but when i drive it for prolonged peroids of time it has problems.

A clogged heater won't cause problems; however; trapped air in the core will expand and force water into the overflow. When it cools AND the rad. cap check valve is defective it will not recover the overflow water back into the system, thus will take in a charge of air instead. Next runnings will repeat forcing more water into the bottle until there is not enough water to circulate.

Yes it's possible to take the heater out of the circuit, you take off the hose at t'stat housing, add another hose, take off hose at lower pipe fitting and hook new hose there. You must put a plug in the hose to keep it from bypassing the t.stat. This can be made from a short length of wooden dowel to which you have added a wood screw in the end so you can remove the plug or just cut the hose off when you don't need it anymore.

My money is on the head gasket, I realize the test was not as pronounced as you would like but you did get a positive indication. If you can figure out some way to keep the circulating water from washing up into the Block check and put it under load I think the results will be much greater.

Did you use any gasked sealer on the head gasket or is it just bare metal to metal?? I don't remember if you told us that you tried a retorque of the head bolts??
...............

You may be the first person who I have caused to spend money on a tool. It's easier to say get a set of plugs and keep the old ones as spares. If you have _not_ done so, try another test after you have taken the car out, put it thorugh it's paces and gotten the overheat condition. The problem there is if it boils it will force both the gasses and steam out.

If you just leave the test unit on the engine during the warm up process does it keep generating bubbles in the test fluid? This should be a finite amount of air (gas) expanding and then stop expanding once temp as been achieved. If it continues then where is it coming from~ water pump seals will sometimes leak and because of rotational speed (water velocity) will actually pull the seal away from it's seat and suck air into the system yet never leak under pressure. I don't see this too often and never at idle or low rpm. On old pumps you can examine the area near and under the impeller for pitting which is a good sign this is been happening. That's the only other source of getting air in the system.

I've sent customers out indicating the headgasket was suspect but test results were inconclusive enough to not warrant spending their money. Month later here they come again but this time there was no doubt. You have tried everything reasonable, you have replaced components and busted your arse trying to make it NOT so but the finger keeps pointing that's the problem. I'm not going to tell you to pull it off, you are going to have to make that decision... see how easy that was to get out of the responsibility of being _wrong_ You have been at this for a couple of weeks with no significant improvement, you have had a bunch of people on your side. There is no place else to spend money except lifting the radiator cap and replacing the car.

If you do pull it down be careful with the gasket, just sit there and stare at it before you touch, look at the head, look for anything which will convince you this was the problem. If you paid for a pressuer test call them up and tell them what's been happening, take head and gasket with so they too can have a good look. I don't know how often these get cracks but you must be thorough.

Cheers,
GTM

 

[mopar4Life]

well purchased a brand new radiator cap which did not help because it over heated again but i will try to use the block tester when the car is under a load and if that fails its time to crack open the engine

Thank you every one for all your help i really appreciate it

 

[jott5555]

did you even read my post, odviously not

 

[mopar4Life]

ive given up and am going to just crack open the engine and look at the head gasket sorry but i cant wait any longe