2G Transmission Rebuild Help

[Dr Ronald]

So I finally decided to rebuild my transmission (2g AWD). I've rebuilt engines, but this is my first transmission rebuild. So far it's going well, but I've got a few questions.

1. How do you remove the needle bearing race from the input shaft? I don't have a press, and a shop near me said it would be $200 to press off and press back on all the bearings, so I would guess about $50 just to get that race off. Has anyone here gotten it off without a press? I got the roller bearing race off the opposite side with a dremel and a chisel. It worked really well, but that obviously ruins the race.

2. I need to do my first and second gear synchros. Is it possible to take my intermediate shaft roller bearing off and reuse it or is it not reusable? My input shaft bearings were completely shot, but the intermediate bearings were good.. They have tons of galling from chunks of cast aluminum, which leads me to my next question.

3. My intermediate shaft was rubbing my case on both ends (sounds dirty). The bell housing end has a large groove in it, whereas the other end I can just barely start to see some wear. What would cause this and how to I fix it? There is a metal shim on the side opposite the bell housing. Where do I find one of these?

4. Where can I get the snap rings for the shaft ends? Can I just go grab some from home depot, or do I need special snap rings. What sizes and is there a special tool that I need?

5. What is an appropriate thickness for a 6 puck clutch disk? I need to know if mine needs replaced. It has probably a little less than 1/8" left on each side if my memory serves me. I can measure it exactly if you me to.

I know this is a lot. Sorry for that. Thanks a lot in advance.

 

[pauleyman]

1. You need a press
2. If you remove the whole gear stack at once with the bearing you can press the bearing back on.
Use a bearing splitter on the bearing then no.
3. You intermediate bearings are bad. Replace them and reshim
4. They are lock rings and they are oem. They are also different thickness. Read the manual, measure and find out what you need. Buy a pair of lisle lock ring pliers

5. No idea. Depends on what brand etc.

 

[Dr Ronald]

How sure are you about that bearing? It doesn't have any indication of being bad. Also, it was my input shaft bearing that had all the galling, but it is my intermediate shaft that is rubbing. You would think that my intermediate shaft would have galling on it too. This doesn't make sense to me. It seems like first gear on the intermediate shaft has a lot of side to side play. What is an excessive amount of side to side play? Thanks for the help.

 

[pauleyman]

If you have a groove on the case that bearing was bad at one time. If it isn't contacting now it's been changed. Bearings are cheap anyway, relatively. Do it right or do it twice.

 

[Dr Ronald]

Well since I'm going to be doing my 1 and 2 synchros, I may as well do the one bearing. The other one I might leave go, unless you really thing I should get it. It seems like the trans was rebuild at one time. I can tell where the person dremeled the input shaft bearing off. This makes me think that 1st gear was rubbing, so the rebuilt it. But this makes me wonder where that metal that was all over my input bearings came from. I am going to reshim the whole trans. Is there supposed to be a metal shim on the intermediate shaft bell housing side? Also, what is that plastic piece and should it be there? It is black and circular and is sitting right behind the bearing race. Thanks again for the help.

 

[pauleyman]

No shims on bellhousing side. Black thing is an oil guide. Best bet is all new bearings. If you're taking it apart take it all the way down and make sure its clean. Center diff shaft, hubs and sliders, forks...all common wear items.

 

[luv2rallye]

For specs and shim selection see p.22B-6 thru 22B-11 of the (Backup) Mitsubishi Eclipse Volume 1 Chassis and Body manual (97-99ECB.pdf).

Make sure you take the time to measure for shim selection using the solder method described on:
p. 22B-30 <H> Spacers Selection and
p. 22B-33 <S> Spacers Installation

It will make all the difference in the world for reliability and shifting smoothness. Many/most tranny shops won't do this due to the time and effort involved (but they claim they do - I have personal experience at this when I had to rebuild my own a year after they did and saw how they had not done this shimming part right. They also didn't even bother to replace that circular oil guide which was torn probably because it would take 7-10 days to get it from Mitsu (as does the shims). They won't do anything that takes that long to get the "correct" parts from Mitsu).

Some tips: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...build-dsm-fwd-transmission.html#post151757065.

I assume you've already seen this: Dre.

TAKE YOUR TIME so you won't be pulling it again!
I'm impressed your rebuilding it yourself. I rebuilt mine knowing nothing about trannies but followed the manual and rebuild article (which has pics).
Good luck!

 

[talon2gbuyer]

OK quick question, I believe my intermediate shaft is messed, and I also just today lost my Reverse gear. Now for the rebuild im probably going to get a jackstransmissions.com rebuild kit, on a scale of 1-10 1 being changing the oil, 10 being full engine tear down, how difficult is a tranny rebuild going to be? Ive never delved into transmissions before, and have very limited knowledge about the transmission. To be completely honest, i dont feel too confident about this at all. Is it worth it as a learning experience? or should i just take it to a pro?

 

[evileagleawd]

robertbaxley03 did a great write up on his transmission rebuild. You might want to look over this!

DSM Forums - 1990 Holset Build 11's

 

[talon2gbuyer]

Gotcha, figured i missed one, i read 2 of them already but as i figured there are probably dozens . Thanks for the help!