The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

to stroke or not to stroke....

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

I stroked it (no pun intended)... I put a 7 bolt 4g64 crank into a 93 block with eagle rods and JE pistons. I'm hopefully going to start the car today, and I'll let all of you know how it goes. I figured with the cost of building a 6 bolt it cost about 200 bucks more to build the stroker... worth it IMO> :thumb:
 
Once you get all the parts needed together, is there more labor involved building a 2.3 as opposed to just building up the 2.0?
 
No, the only things you change are the pistons and the crank. So just pretend you are building a 2.0, just using a different crank and pistons in place of the 2.0 pieces. Simple actually. As long as you're at it you will want to put in stronger rods so you never have to worry about them again...
 
laggin3 said:
Hey Swordfish, does Polk want to kill you even more now that the rods are redesigned and he doesnt have to rip into the block? :p

Actually, we are building a new engine with the new rods as we speak. There has been a lot of flooding locally and this engine became a victim of hydro lock. It is toast. What a lame way to kill and engine huh.
:laugh:

jeff
 
Mirage2LTurbo said:
The guy above replied that his 50 trim was spooling 400-600rpm sooner on a 2.3 versus a 2.0. For street applications, this might be all fine and dandy. Lag is over rated, and with a competent driver, should never be an issue. A simple downshift will bring you instantly into boost with just about any turbo.



Try running a turbo that takes 2000 rpm to respool after a shift. ;) You'll change your opinion... Even with a stroker, my turbo wont build boost with a 5500 rpm stutter box. Only agressive antilag settings will spool it up a few psi. This turbo would be impossible to run on a 2 liter, unless you rev to 9k rpm and NTLS every gear. Would still affect ET. Its not all about gett spool quicker. Its more about being able to run a bigger more VE-efficient turbine side without adding lag. ;) IMO of course...

And I could have sworn back when I was thinking about going with a 2.4 block there was some BS you had to do to make the 4G63 head work with it. Perhaps people have come up with better methods, now that everyone has one... :)
 
What do you guys do to compensate for timing. I'm having timing issues with my 2.3. When the turbo kicks it pulls timing down to 0 even -2 degrees and then by 6900 rpm I get 15 degrees. I have Maf T.
 
im not a newb to the site, but to intensive engine tech i am still mostly clueless. I read this post to see what you guys had to say because i was debating to go with a stroker kit. I have a 6 bolt 4g waiting to be built up. The question i have is, isnt the whole point of a 6 bolt to stay away from crankwalk? and if you put a 7 bolt crank in a 6 bolt block, do you still need to worry about this? Like i said, im stupid, but i would really appreciate any help you can give me. Thanks guys!
 
92jclpRS said:
im not a newb to the site, but to intensive engine tech i am still mostly clueless. I read this post to see what you guys had to say because i was debating to go with a stroker kit. I have a 6 bolt 4g waiting to be built up. The question i have is, isnt the whole point of a 6 bolt to stay away from crankwalk? and if you put a 7 bolt crank in a 6 bolt block, do you still need to worry about this? Like i said, im stupid, but i would really appreciate any help you can give me. Thanks guys!


I dont think a 6 bolt crank will fit in a 7 bolt block and same for a 7 bolt in a 6 bolt. If you wanna do a stoker with a 6 bolt you use a 6 bolt crank....either with like a kit or out of a galant i think.
 
Hes right, a 6 blot 4g63 gets a 6 bolt 4g64 crank. The 7 bolt 4g64 does not have the same problem with crank walk from what I have read, only the 7 bolt 4g63.
 
I've heard from several people that have had 7 bolt 4g64s crankwalk. But who knows wether or not its due to improper installation/alignment of the thrust bearing.
 
I still don’t understand why people waste money on 7 bolt engines. How much money do they “save”? A couple of hundred bucks now and they end up with what? A lousy 7 bolt!
 
I could have built a 6 bolt for only $150 more than the 7 bolt. I never had problems with crankwalk and it wasn't really too much of a concern for me. It's waaaay over rated and other than crankwalk the 7 bolt is superior imo. I like the main girdle design better on the 7 bolt.
 
you mean 6 bolt right? And most people dont want to mess with a 7 bolt because no one knows what really causes crankwalk, therefore you are taking a crap shoot by building one. Some are successful, many arent. Why take the risk when there is a better and safer alternative. I think the 6 bolt main design is more than adequate.
 
what exact make and model can i find a 6bolt 4g64 crank? and what are all of the other parts needed to make this stroker kit work right?
 
bigjangin said:
you mean 6 bolt right? And most people dont want to mess with a 7 bolt because no one knows what really causes crankwalk, therefore you are taking a crap shoot by building one. Some are successful, many arent. Why take the risk when there is a better and safer alternative. I think the 6 bolt main design is more than adequate.

Yea I meant 6 bolt ... didn't proof read. I agree its risky but 6 bolts CAN crankwalk as well and what causes it on those? Less likely? Yes ... Possible? Yes.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top