tips on rebuilding a 4g63 block

[Suparata]

Originally posted by Cesar
I will actually be putting the motor together myself... it's already been taken apart. I just finding out as much as I can for my first rebuild, and I just never heard of assembly lube before.

There are guys that now what they are talking about so listen to them. Go and discuss things with your machinist and if you do not understand everything he tells you come back here and ask . Rebuilding an engine is not as easy as it sounds and you definitely need help to do it.
How did you figure out what size pistons to order?
How about the crankshaft ? How did you check it?

 

[Cesar]

Originally posted by Suparata
There are guys that now what they are talking about so listen to them. Go and discuss things with your machinist and if you do not understand everything he tells you come back here and ask . Rebuilding an engine is not as easy as it sounds and you definitely need help to do it.
How did you figure out what size pistons to order?
How about the crankshaft ? How did you check it?

I will be taking the block and the crank to a machine shop to have it checked sometime this week or next. My plan is to run the highest boost possible on 94 octane so I would like to keep stock compression. I will tell them that I would like to have the least amount of material as possible from the head as well as the block. As far as pistons go I would probably go with the standard size since the walls are not scared nor is there a rigde at the top of the cylinder. My bearings looked good, so I'm hoping that the crank is up to spec. I would like to have it polished, knifedged, and the whole rotating assembly balanced, but am not sure whether I will be able to afford that. I also have to resurface the flywheel. I've been thinking of rebuilding the cylinder head myself, but I'm not sure if whether It will be worth it. I can replace the valve guides myself but I'm not sure how to test them for leaks before and after. I can also lap the valve seats myself... other than cleaning the head that's all there is to it NO???

this is where I was thinking of getting he kit
http://www.importperformanceparts.net/imports/mitsu_index.html
I e-mailed them And they said I have a choice of 1g or2g pistons, but I think I'm going with stock compression...thanks

 

[Suparata]

Originally posted by Cesar
I will be taking the block and the crank to a machine shop to have it checked sometime this week or next. My plan is to run the highest boost possible on 94 octane so I would like to keep stock compression. I will tell them that I would like to have the least amount of material as possible from the head as well as the block. As far as pistons go I would probably go with the standard size since the walls are not scared nor is there a rigde at the top of the cylinder. My bearings looked good, so I'm hoping that the crank is up to spec. I would like to have it polished, knifedged, and the whole rotating assembly balanced, but am not sure whether I will be able to afford that. I also have to resurface the flywheel. I've been thinking of rebuilding the cylinder head myself, but I'm not sure if whether It will be worth it. I can replace the valve guides myself but I'm not sure how to test them for leaks before and after. I can also lap the valve seats myself... other than cleaning the head that's all there is to it NO???

this is where I was thinking of getting he kit
http://www.importperformanceparts.net/imports/mitsu_index.html
I e-mailed them And they said I have a choice of 1g or2g pistons, but I think I'm going with stock compression...thanks

You CANNOT replace the guides yourself and lapping the seats is not enough. There is so much more involved in a cyl head rebuilt.
See what you can afford and your machinist will tell you what you need to have done to your engine. Before you get to knife-edge you will have to spend a lot more money than you think to have things done right.
Check your PM

 

[bigjangin]

be patient and expect it to take a while.

 

[Groomz]

Knife edging sounds cool but is not worth it. You should just go buy a new crankshaft. This way you are garunteed ( hopefully from whoever you got it fom ) that it won't fail from being welded and drilled or undercut like a remanufactured crankshaft would be. Unless you plan on extreme RPM operation for long durations ( ie racing ), do not get the crank knife edged. Money better spent elsewhere.

JMO

 

[jrivard00]

Originally posted by Suparata
You CANNOT replace the guides yourself and lapping the seats is not enough. There is so much more involved in a cyl head rebuilt.
See what you can afford and your machinist will tell you what you need to have done to your engine. Before you get to knife-edge you will have to spend a lot more money than you think to have things done right.
Check your PM

He's right, there is more to rebuilding a cylinder head then you think. If you replace the valve guides then you changed the angle of the valve. This means recutting the valve seats, honing the valve guide, adjusting spring height and lapping the valves. Not to mention checking spring tension, pressure testing, and milling. I would leave this up to your machinist.

As far the block you can do most of the work involved like honing, sizing rings, installing pistons, etc after you have had the block rebored and the crank checked.

 

[Suparata]

Originally posted by jrivard00

As far the block you can do most of the work involved like honing, sizing rings, installing pistons, etc after you have had the block rebored and the crank checked.

Well not really. If you could do the honing yourself than Rotler, Shelby, Sunnen and others would go out of business because nobody would buy their tens of thousands $ honing machines. Boring will get you within a few thou of an inch to the final size .A few more steps of honing will get you where you will supposed to be.
You won't be able to install the pistons on the rods if they are press-fit. There is an interference fit involved there. I won't even mention recondition those rods.
What about clean assembly?
Let your machinist do what he has to do and you worry about installing the head on the shortblock, waterpump, front case, timing and the rest of the things you can actually do if you are careful and clean.

 

[Cesar]

I will be doing the assembly of the shortblock myself. So I will be doing everything that I can to stay within budget. Regarding the pistons, do the stock ones need to be pressed on to the rods???

Should I use fasteners such as APR in order to fasten the main and rod caps?? Or is that not such and important upgrade.

I don't think I will need to bore the block since the walls look really good. Is boring standard procedure in all overhauls??

I would like to leave the block as close to factory spec as possible.... for now

 

[Groomz]

Originally posted by Cesar
I will be doing the assembly of the shortblock myself. So I will be doing everything that I can to stay within budget. Regarding the pistons, do the stock ones need to be pressed on to the rods???

Should I use fasteners such as APR in order to fasten the main and rod caps?? Or is that not such and important upgrade.

I don't think I will need to bore the block since the walls look really good. Is boring standard procedure in all overhauls??

I would like to leave the block as close to factory spec as possible.... for now

ARP fasteners are worth ever penny!!! They are definitely worth it, heck, they keep everything together!

Boring the block out ( usually 0.020 inches overbore for first time rebuilds ) is usually done to freshen up the cylinder walls for a good seal with new piston rings. Not necessary, but there are no downsides. 0.020 is not going to be noticable in any power sense, but will help with break in and longevity.

I am not sure about pressing the rods or not. Maybe a wiseman or moderator could chime in?

Good luck and remember, ARP!!!

 

[Suparata]

Originally posted by Groomz
ARP fasteners are worth ever penny!!! They are definitely worth it, heck, they keep everything together!

Boring the block out ( usually 0.020 inches overbore for first time rebuilds ) is usually done to freshen up the cylinder walls for a good seal with new piston rings. Not necessary, but there are no downsides. 0.020 is not going to be noticable in any power sense, but will help with break in and longevity.

I am not sure about pressing the rods or not. Maybe a wiseman or moderator could chime in?

Good luck and remember, ARP!!!

Stock pistons are press-fit.
Unless your eyes are also a bore gauge you cannot determine if the bore is in good condition (within specs). Boring IS necessary when the cyl are out of specs, out of round, taper or scratched.
^^^ARP fasteners are worth ever penny!!! ^^^
Yes but you will have to align-hone the mains, recondition the rods and use a torque plate when used.On the other hand you should all these no matter what you use.