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tips on assembling bottom end

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Saturdee

10+ Year Contributor
405
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Nov 9, 2010
Duncannon, Pennsylvania
I just ordered my piston/rod combo and before I start I want to know if there is any tips you guys could give me so I don't screw this up, it's my first rebuild. I have a 98, and I was wondering if there is anything special I need to do when putting in the thrust washers. Also, is checking the crank end play needed? I would like to do this myself, but if the chances of screwing something up is high, I'll have the machine shop do it. I would just always prefer doing things myself so I know exactly what is being done. I hate thinking "what if they didn't do it right". So yeah, any little tips or answers to my questions would be great, thanks.
 
Man it's alot of work. With just the short block. Rods,pistons,crank.

you got, Crank end play, but besides that you wan't to plastigauge the bearings.
Then you do the rods and plastigauge those.
For the pistons, you measure the pistons diameter that you got, bore the engine out to that diameter with factoring in oil clearance. This would insure a very tight fit.

You would then measure the ring gap and grind them down as needed.

That is just some of what you can do. There is much more. Including measuring the inside of the con rods, measuring crank journal width. It goes on and on.

To be honest I've pulled my crank out 3-4 times to double check everything, and pistons twice.
 
Well I already plan on having the machine shop bore/deck/hot tank/ and resurface my head, but I wanted to see if I could assemble it all myself without having them do it. What would you go with?
 
Do you own micrometers? Torque wrench? Engine Stand? Calipers? A very nice clean work area? A shop Manual? I'm not trying to be rude at all btw. Look at this as a Intro check list...

The head I would recommend having the machine shop install the valves and springs and stuff. This is due to I think it being a little more difficult then needed using the hand tool to install them. I prefer a machine. You still install it yourself, but the machine keeps the spring under pressure. When your done you can instantly go to the next one.

You also got to think about, them grinding the valve seats and the valves themselves so they seal good.
 
I don't have micrometers or calipers, I could most likely borrow a torque wrench, yes to engine stand and manual. I have a spring compressor so I could do the valves myself, but it seems like I'll probably have them put my block together.
 
For the head... You measure the cams, lobe diameters. The caps you measure the bore. You also can check for straightness.

The valves, you can check for any burnt or heat damage. The thickness of the valve margin.
For springs, free height.

Rockers usually check for just damage or alot of wear.

I was scared to, but theres only one way to learn.
 
alright I'll keep an eye out, thanks.

And if anyone else wants to throw in their thoughts go ahead.

I think I'm gonna try this myself, I've been reading my manual and I know the tools I need to buy, and I feel like I could do it as long as I stick to the manual, of course. I mean I probably will always be building cars, so I figure why just postpone it for another time? I might as well do it and learn now.
 
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