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timing belt off a few teeth each way bent valves?

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haddixjl

15+ Year Contributor
77
0
Jul 27, 2006
orangevale, California
Hi I just acquired a non running 91 talon tsi and today I fiinally pulled it apart to look at it. My crank and oil pump pulley line up on the mark. Num 1 piston is up and the can gears are off a ways. There appears to be two marks on each gear one on the tooth and the other in the valley? From the looks of it
I will attach a pic of it also. But for today I was wondering if I should pull the head? I know it was ran in this condition prior to me getting it


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Does it turn over really hard? My experience tells me you definitely have bent valves, but I've been wrong before. Generally if its off that far, there will be some bendage and even valves kissing pistons. I would definitely pull things apart and do it right the first time. But I find it interesting that if the marks are off as much as you say, that it was running at all.
 
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I got the car from my cousin and he said he drove it and it had no compression in num 4 but I don't know for sure as he is not mechanical at all. But he did say it was running. Any info about the dual timing marks or marks in different spots? I am in the process of looking up how to pull the head. As far as what wires and brackets need to be disconnected .

No it turns over really easy I rotated it over a bunch of times to make sure it was in the right spot
 

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So is it running or not running? You said your cousin had it running then it changed hands and now it doesn't run? If the crank is lined up correctly and the gears are that off I would say bent valves for sure. Is the belt tensioned at all?
 
I haven't tried to start it as I wanted to check it out first and see what was happening with it. The belt is still tensioned. I am trying to find out about the other marks on the gears. Cause I am guessing that both the teeth marks should be lined up and and its closer to one tooth and valley mark right now.

I also think I need to make the tool for compressing the tensioner can it hurt the tensioner to just unbolt it? Will it spring out or anything? I have read where people pull it off and use a vise to compress it.
 
As long as those dowel pins are facing up, the gears are installed correctly, and the timing marks should line up. I asked about the belt tension because ironically when setting the belt with the marks lined up, it actually will be off by a tooth. You need to rotate one of the cams a bit so the belt sits in the right tooth but once properly tension they will line up correctly.

As for the tensioner, if you compress it slowly, it won't damage it but my advice is to never reuse a tensioner. Get a new OEM one.
 
I have read about that before setting up the timing belt a tooth off so when you release the tension it goes to the correct spot? So are you saying that the timing is fine? Could the cam gears have gotten swapped? Meaning is it possible the intake and exhaust gears are switched? I still haven't found anything about the two diff marks
 
The markings are fine, the valley should be right next to the peek mark. This was the condition my car came in, it ran but because it was ran for so long like that the valves never sealed properly when I retimed it.
 
I never said the timing is fine. Your timing is ####ed. I'm saying when it's properly tensioned, it should line up. Yours is tensioned as you said it is and and out of alignment so it skipped. Cam gears are the same. Forget about the other marks. The marks inside aren't lining up when the crank is lined up. End of story. Pull the head and check it.
 
Just pulled it no obvious signs of bent valves did put some gas in the combustion chambers and the exhaust side leaked a little bit and I can see a little bit of light through it if I shine it on them. So I will take it to the machine shop and get it checked out. Amy suggestions In the Sacramento area?
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The motor is what it was supposed to be a slow boy stage one it looks good inside no wear on the cylinders just some carbon on top of the pistons cause it was running so rich at idle
Here are some pics
 

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Go out and grab all the parts for a head rebuild and the get the shop to rebuild it. If money is am issue than just go grab some new valves and some lapping compound and put them in yourself
 
Well first thing I see is cheap valves installed, I would not trust them in a turbo engine.

Factory valves have a 6T on them.

So the head has been gone through before.

The head needs to be fully torn down and inspected.
 
What would you charge if I sent it to you? I hate shipping parts but I won't settle for an ok machine shop. I talked to the prior owner and he had the head done at a generic machine shop. Is it just the one valve that is off? Cause one on the exhaust doesn't have Amy markings on it. Also what is the factory cc's of the head he thought it may have been milled down to much and I wanted to check. The valves are not flush with the deck fwiw
 
See all the valves marked " Made in japan" Those are replacement valves.

I would get a set of factory 6T valves, or get a set of stainless steel valves.

factory advertised combustion chamber volume is 47cc

It is not uncommon for the intake valves to protrude past the HG surface a tad bit
 
See all the valves marked " Made in japan" Those are replacement valves.

I would get a set of factory 6T valves, or get a set of stainless steel valves.

factory advertised combustion chamber volume is 47cc

It is not uncommon for the intake valves to protrude past the HG surface a tad bit

we have to pull the intake valves all the time to resurface the head.
as he was saying toss the valves out you do not want a burnt one.

on your first pic of the valves last chamber upper left valve looks like it did hit. you can see what looks like a flat spot at about 8 o'clock. could be a camera shadow to
 
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Yes I will get all new valves and springs. I don't like to do things twice so I will do what needs to be done the first time around. Thanks for the advice
Jason
 
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