Ticking sound from cracked manifold?

[PsiRemix]

I have read and searched almost, if not all the threads trying to find an answer, with no luck.

I recently installed a used Evo3 manifold with an external 38mm Tial flange on the #1 runner that the previous owner had welded together. The manifold also has an EGT bung that was drilled and welded fairly close to the wastegate flange. During the install, I noticed that the divider in the collection area right before the turbo had a crack on each side. I heard Evo mani's aren't prone to cracking, and I figured it wasn't really a threat so I bolted everything up.
I usually am not the person to buy a used manifold, but I got a great deal on it.

Everything was fine, although once everything was on, I noticed there was a very noticeable "ticking" sound emitting from the engine; especially upon acceleration. Idle is fine, the sound is just very apparent around about 2k rpm. I figured on the speculations about "lifter-tick", but this being my 4th 4g63 vehicle, I know all about "lifter-tick". This sound is quite a difference. Not so much a knocking, but more of an amplified "clicking". In fact, I almost sure that at idle, my usual "lifter tick" is gone.

Can those cracks be the reason for this sound? I just am worried about it being a bigger problem than I anticipate. I also noticed a pin-sized exhaust leak where the EGT bung had been welded on.

Sorry to ask a question like this when I should just take the manifold off, replace it, and see if the problem persists; but I don't have the funds at the moment to buy a brand new one with an 38mm flange, and I am in the process of finding another manifold, and having someone weld a flange on. Plus its my daily driver right now! Thanks in advance for the help!

 

[tkelly27]

Yes, small leaks will sound like a tick tick noise. Take some length of tubing, put one end in your ear, and the other near that little crack and you'll hear it, I can almost assure you of this.

That wasn't the fault of the EVO manifold, that was a poor welding job. If you don't heat cast iron properly before hand and let it cool, the alloys cool differently and the less than ductile cast iron cracks. Bummer. If you take it off a shop can fix it. Maybe try JB Weld? I lost the package, but it says worked for Bumpkin McSitzonstix on his diesel engine block

 

[PsiRemix]

What about on the divider cracks? I dont know if I would trust JB Weld in there. Then agian, I don't trust how it is to begin with, with the cracks being there. Thanks for your help tkelly.

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

JB weld won't hold at all. Not at 1300 degree's. Your best bet is to get it rewelded or just get a new manifold.

 

[PsiRemix]

Thanks for your help guys. I took your advice tkelly, and I used a piece of 3/8 hose to listen an somewhat pinpoint the noise location. It worked, and I came to the conclusion that the "ticking" is coming from where the hotside meets up with the O2 housing. I have a ss gasket in there, but then again, this was listening when it was at idle. Lifter tick is always present at idle, but through the tubing, the sound was definitely amplified at the O2 flange area. I'm going to take it off(hopefully), and check things out. Thanks again.

 

[Dream On]

Cracks in the divider are pretty normal from what I've heard/seen. Both my 1g and my 2g manifold had them. I've never seen anyone saying it broke off and went in their turbo so far, not to say that it hasn't happened though.

 

[tkelly27]

Glad you didn't do the JB weld thing Getting a crack re-welded should cost less than $20 at any welding place, so if that turns out to be where it is at the end of the day, don't worry about needing a new manifold.