Thicker oil reduce knock?

[64_Frankenstein]

I couldn’t find any topic on using thicker oil to reduce engine from knock so I decide to make this thread since I have this problem. I have a 6-bolt 4G63 engine and just convert it over to a 6-bolt 4G64. It has Eagle rods, JE piston 40 over, and the 100mm 4G64 crankshaft from FFWD Connection. Here is the web site about the crankshaft but got it from a owner on ebay which clam he don’t need it anymore. The crank was never been use or install according to the owner. The 4G64 crankshaft rod journals are 44.70mm same as the 4G63 if I’m not mistaken. FFWD Connection - Race Injuns That Will Freeze Your Brain My problem is the engine started to knock over 3,000 RPM and also shown in the datalogger. It show 5 to 20 counts of knocks. I can also hear it. Sound like a belts slapping against each other and I hope that is the problem. This only happens when I accelerate at 1 to 2 PSI. This does not happen during normal driving and slightly acceleration. Yes I did have the correct side rod and engine bearings and does not have any play during installation. The balance shaft has been remove. I was thinking if it’s not the alternator belt or the timing belt which making these noises then it must be coming from the engine. I’m going to check it again to see where it’s really coming from. The way it sounds Im sure it’s coming from the engine. My question is can I use thicker oil such as 20W-50 to reduce the engine from knocking? Some say thicker oil reduce engine nosie? My oil pressure gauge is dead and no longer function and I can’t tell the oil pressure. Do you think it could be oil pressure drop to cause the knocking? Is there any other way with out tearing it down? Since I just got it rebuild I hated to tear it apart again. Thanks in advance.

 

[64_Frankenstein]

well, your supposed to at least platigauge the brearings. just becuase they are stamped, doesn't mean they are correct. when working with machined parts it's check, recheck, and then check it again.

So, you have 200 miles on a fresh re-build and haven't changed the oil yet. After a rebuild the car should be started, brought up to operating temp, shut down, and new oil goes in. then you start the break in process... did you do this?

Yes it's less then 200 miles on a fresh rebuild. I didn't know you have to change the oil after few min of running. Since you mention that I'll do that in the next morning. It's getting late in NC I'll up date this thread later. Thanks for the advice.

 

[1992awdlaser]

well, your supposed to at least platigauge the brearings. just becuase they are stamped, doesn't mean they are correct. when working with machined parts it's check, recheck, and then check it again.

Exactly why I asked what he used instead of asking if he used plastigauge and feeler gauges. This way I didn't give the answer I was waiting for. Feeler gauges should have been used on the rings to check the end gap. You do this by putting the ring in the cylinder while it is off the piston. Then make sur the ring is in there straight and not sideways by putting the piston in upside down on top of the ring. Then take the piston out and check the ring gap with the feeler gauges. Also make sure the ring goes in the cylinder you gapped it for.

Did the machine shop mark each piston for what cylinder it should go in? Did they even use the pistons to set clearance or did they just bore it?

I wouldn't trust a machine shop without checking the work myself after they machine the block.

 

[64_Frankenstein]

Exactly why I asked what he used instead of asking if he used plastigauge and feeler gauges. This way I didn't give the answer I was waiting for. Feeler gauges should have been used on the rings to check the end gap. You do this by putting the ring in the cylinder while it is off the piston. Then make sur the ring is in there straight and not sideways by putting the piston in upside down on top of the ring. Then take the piston out and check the ring gap with the feeler gauges. Also make sure the ring goes in the cylinder you gapped it for.

Did the machine shop mark each piston for what cylinder it should go in? Did they even use the pistons to set clearance or did they just bore it?

I wouldn't trust a machine shop without checking the work myself after they machine the block.

I remember using a feeler gauge to measure the piston ring end gap but can't remember what's the clearance is. I can't hardly see the ring gap. I should of took all 4 piston and have it mark each cylinder of it's own. I took one of the new piston I just got from JE and gave it to the man who machine my block. The piston is 40 over, he saids the block is bored to fit the piston. There's not much of clreance for the piston, I have to slowly squeeze the each piston into each cylinder. Is that normal?

 

[twack]

Well just to clear things up im looking at the visor and on a 1g it says 10w-30, 20w-20, or 20w-40

 

[soldave]

This link might give you plenty of information about what oil viscosity to go to. I learnt a hell of a lot from reading the articles.

Motor Oil

 

[1992awdlaser]

I remember using a feeler gauge to measure the piston ring end gap but can't remember what's the clearance is. I can't hardly see the ring gap. I should of took all 4 piston and have it mark each cylinder of it's own. I took one of the new piston I just got from JE and gave it to the man who machine my block. The piston is 40 over, he saids the block is bored to fit the piston. There's not much of clreance for the piston, I have to slowly squeeze the each piston into each cylinder. Is that normal?

To do it correctly the machine shop would have used all 4 pistons. They would have marked each one for a specific cylinder. they would have put a 1 on top of one piston, a 2 on top of one of the pistons and so on. Then they would have measured the piston marked number 1 cylinder. Then they would have measured the number 1 cylinder bore. Now they would have bored it out slightly less then needed to get the desired clearance. For instance, if they needed to cut the bore .38 to get the clearance needed they would have actually cut something like .35. This is because they still have to hone the cylinder which will take more metal off the cylinder wall. So after they hone it the cylinder will be bigger then after they bored it. So if they bored it the .38 then after they honed it the clearance would be looser than desired. The reason they would need all four pistons is because they are not all going to be exactly the same size as eachother. So if they bore all the cylinder based on just one piston the clearance is going to vary between cylinders.

 

[64_Frankenstein]

Thats what I figure. I should of done that in the first place. Thanks!

 

[1992awdlaser]

No problem. Let me know if there is something else I can help with.

 

[64_Frankenstein]

No problem. Let me know if there is something else I can help with.

You know some thing funny? According to the datalogger on warm idle below 1,000 RPM some time it show 1 to 2 counts of knock. I don't think that's normal? I think the knock sensor is 3 years old. Do you think its got a bad knock sensor? When I took the block to have it machine, I didn't take the knock sensor off from the block. I guess the man who machine my block musted took it off and plug it back in with out tighting it with the right spec. Or he musted left it on there while he cooked the block which cause the knock sensor to go bad.

This link might give you plenty of information about what oil viscosity to go to. I learnt a hell of a lot from reading the articles.

Motor Oil

Thanks man.

 

[T is for TURBO]

You know some thing funny? According to the datalogger on warm idle below 1,000 RPM some time it show 1 to 2 counts of knock. I don't think that's normal? I think the knock sensor is 3 years old. Do you think its got a bad knock sensor? When I took the block to have it machine, I didn't take the knock sensor off from the block. I guess the man who machine my block musted took it off and plug it back in with out tighting it with the right spec. Or he musted left it on there while he cooked the block which cause the knock sensor to go bad.

Just be cause it's at idle doesn't mean it can't be knocking. Also, the knock sensor doesn't only pick up enige knock. If you have bad rod knock, the kock sensor with pick it up.

 

[64_Frankenstein]

Just be cause it's at idle doesn't mean it can't be knocking. Also, the knock sensor doesn't only pick up enige knock. If you have bad rod knock, the kock sensor with pick it up.

Dang. I hate to tear it apart again if that's the case. Funny thing is it have brand new Eagle rods and new rod bearings. Do you think it could be the cylinder head? Because the cylinder head is louder then before. It has Crower valve springs and CompCams. Before I had my cylinder head upgrade its very quiet.