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studabaker

Supporting Member
208
2
Nov 1, 2008
Sacramento, California
I have a diffeent idea of what this means than some people probably but i am interested in this subject. this is what i am building.. it does not have to be a bmw although i would like one i am building something decent for not very much. things i think should be considered: 1 clean electrical and safety when installing aftermarket stereo "tunes" :cool: but not too much to take up the entire cargo area. 2 reliability: meaning a well oiled machine that has more horse power than my old civic.. as fun as it would be there is a speed limit in california. 3 which brings me to the third thing is handling.. and 4 security ?
I like racing seats as well

I am about to work on my stereo electrical system putting in a power and ground line with distribution blocks for each which also help my cleaning up other electrical parts. remote door locks and edfc.

my brothers stereo got stolen the other day out of his 97 tacoma over night..
dsm doors dont have the slim jim problem? but this still scares me a little that those people are out there. my civic had the window broken to get to my subs but there was a trunk lock (i had locked) and all they could do was break the trunk latch and my window? 200$ point being dsm doors are not as slim jimable but windows can be broken. An alarm is good in he city.

stuart:cool:
 
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I still have only five volts going to the Popper for some reason which must be resistance or the door lock remote I am using. Before I try to cut a hole in the door panel I am going to try to get twelve volts to the door Popper and move it to the speaker location. :cool:
 
I have studied and test fit a relay which gives me 12 v to the popper. It works because it is a 75 lb popper with half the volts. I previously had a 45lb popper with half the volts so I should now be able to pop the door in the cold when the door sticks.

the door sticks due to the quality of the craftsmanship and driving skill of the previous owner. I am slowly uncovering history which had been concealed pretty well. The rear lights and words talon have junk yard paint marker on them. There is bondo all over on closer inspection and stuff. Im not even sure its a talon anymore.:cool:

The location of the popper is next going to be attempted under the window operation handle where there is a spot i think will allow me to put the door panel back on. the use of pulleys is going to be required. the least change in angle would be the best path when using pulleys based on physics.
 
Here ya go man. This is what I did to get the popper in the middle. Just use 16 or 18 gauge steel and cut it with good sheet metal sheers to that shape then just drill the holes. (shown in green LOL)

The 2 holes on the right go right through the door panel with 2 bolts to hold it on. Then put the popper bracket on the back side of the sheet metal bracket and use 1/4" elevator bolts found at any hardware store to fasten it onto the bracket. evelator bolts dont have a head on them just a flat circle and a square like a carrage bolt.

Its best to use elevator bolts for all 6 spots to clear all window moving parts.

Hope this helps ya dude!!!

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Oh and I know you guys love my nasty paintshop skills :cool: haha
 

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I am sure that works. i am planning on bolting it lower and redirecting the line as in these pictures. From holding it there i just think its slightly better after having my door panel.off for six.months now i have been thinking about it a.lot. I am not 100% sure i will be able to yet but as i said from holding it there and with some rubber to absorb any additional noise as well i think people will agree and like to try this way maybe if i can figure it out.
 
I have a diffeent idea of what this means than some people probably but i am interested in this subject. this is what i am building.. it does not have to be a bmw although i would like one i am building something decent for not very much. things i think should be considered: 1 clean electrical and safety when installing aftermarket stereo "tunes" :cool: but not too much to take up the entire cargo area. 2 reliability: meaning a well oiled machine that has more horse power than my old civic.. as fun as it would be there is a speed limit in california. 3 which brings me to the third thing is handling.. and 4 security ?
I like racing seats as well

I am about to work on my stereo electrical system putting in a power and ground line with distribution blocks for each which also help my cleaning up other electrical parts. remote door locks and edfc.

my brothers stereo got stolen the other day out of his 97 tacoma over night..
dsm doors dont have the slim jim problem? but this still scares me a little that those people are out there. my civic had the window broken to get to my subs but there was a trunk lock (i had locked) and all they could do was break the trunk latch and my window? 200$ point being dsm doors are not as slim jimable but windows can be broken. An alarm is good in he city.

stuart:cool:

Dont add all sorts of do dads to your interior, keep it looking stock so people wont want whats inside, to stop your car from being jacked just put a kill switch on your fuel pump ground and clutch wire. Most theives would rather steal a Civic than a DSM, thank goodness they are clueless dotes with no sence in their big heads. Also if you do put woofers in your car dont bass out near your neighborhood, not a smart thing to do if you like your subs.
 
My friend got.his cd.collection stolen before back.in the day. I went from.the fold.out dvd to the bluetooth cd player and i like it more. I play music off my phone. The ultimate driving experience is qbout fun suspension; well oiled engine with air conditoning and a full range audio system. Why i am having so much trouble is because of funding and surprises behind the plastic.
I hope to publish solutions to common problems in achieving the ultimate driving experience.
Door plan pictures will be up in am westside
 
Just a AWD Turbo car and the feeling of your face being ripped off from the torque in secong gear followed by the "phhhh" sound as you shift into third and brace for more seat destroying torque, thats my defenition of "The ultimate driving experience"
 
I am sure that works. i am planning on bolting it lower and redirecting the line as in these pictures. From holding it there i just think its slightly better after having my door panel.off for six.months now i have been thinking about it a.lot. I am not 100% sure i will be able to yet but as i said from holding it there and with some rubber to absorb any additional noise as well i think people will agree and like to try this way maybe if i can figure it out.

Yes there is a little added noise from the popper but when you use them your outside the car not inside it so the noise isn't that bad. If you are worried about the noise add some dynomat to the door panel and that will fix that problem.

The reason my poppers are there is that the poppers work linearly so a direct as possible line works the best which is what I have. My poppers have worked for over a year now with zero problems.

Also adding rubber mounts to the system will take way from you pulling popping effect because some of the force will be absurd into the rubber. Kinda like stock motor mounts compared to the all aluminum ones.

The noise you get comes from the popper it's self inside no mounting solution will help that. It's the magent getting energized and pulling the shaft in. If you are that worried about the noise use some dynomat.

Good luck dude!
 
i still am not 100 % that the new spot im trying is going to work but due to linear reasons and space i like this spot:cool:
 

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