The never ending build of my 1991 Galant VR4 #1062

[GalantVR41062]

91 Galant VR4 - MitsuStyle

The never ending build of 1062. | Galant VR-4 > General VR4 Discussions | GalantVR-4.org Mitsubishi Galant VR4 Forum

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cus...0-here-my-build-log-my-galant-vr4-1062-a.html

Any further questions feel free to ask. But the quick run down, the car makes good power, the car is light:2450lbs w/0 driver, and I plan to run WELL into the 8s next year.

As of 6-26-2011 its was the Fastest and Quickest 1/4 mile in a Mitsubishi Galant VR4. I ran a [email protected] at 42-44psi. Next year I want to run 50psi and have a dog box tranny, QTP tires etc to try and get the car a little more reliable.

Some guy with an Auto GVR4 ran a 9.34@146mph, so I still have the MPH but need my 60' a lot better to start driving down the ET.

~John

 

[GalantVR41062]

here are the goods:

91 Galant VR4 720 awhp e98 39psi - YouTube

John's 91 Galant VR4 816awhp 44psi dyno run - YouTube

John's 91 Galant VR4 [email protected] in car - YouTube

John's Galant VR4 1/4 Mile Time and Speed Record 6/26/11 9.45 @ 156 - YouTube


~John

 

[GalantVR41062]

I will have my rods and new set of pistons late next week. I have ordered stuff from parts dinosaur and am talking with MAP and Dukes for the rest of the parts.

Some good changes this year is new timing belt stuff, I am building a new head with 1mm over valves new springs and crazy light titanium retainers plus shims to tighten up the springs as much as possible.

The block with just get the glaze broken and new rings/bearings installed.

I am going to try a ICS Titan copper head gasket: SCE ICS Titan Head Gasket - Modern Automotive Performance

And new MAP ultimate duty L19 studs.

Also I am getting a set of Hoosier QTP tires: Hoosier Racing Tire 17415 - Hoosier Quick Time Pro D.O.T. Tires - SummitRacingEquipment.com

I will make a few minor changes to the entire setup. The goal is a little less rattles, fix some drivability, and get the car aligned, and have the ems control boost and have VSS input with an electronic speed sensor from a 2g.

I will post pics and updates as needed.

~John

Man I talk a lot in this thread.... input, compliments, criticism all welcome here.

 

[Awdspyderman]

great build man! =) That is a mean vr4 ........ YOU CAN DOOO IT (waterboy)

 

[GalantVR41062]

Thank you CP/Carrillo for looking over the old parts, and cutting up the new set of pistons for the year.

The new pistons have a little different out shape, to help piston stability, and they now have 6 gas ports for the top ring, and they added polishing to the final steps of machine work.

So a quick run down of the new parts for 2012:

MAP stage 5 head with SI 1mm over nitrite coated SS intake and exhaust valves, Crower springs and titanium retainers with new Ferrea locks, the retainers are 1/4 of the weight of the old chrome moly ones we had in the head the last few years.

We ended up with the Titan SCE copper gasket (not the ICS one, thank goodness), and the block is at MAP to get o ring groves cut into the deck surface. the head gasket will be coated with copper spray and torqued down with the new MAP ultimate duty L19 head studs. We also picked up all new timing belt components, and a Gates blue racing belt and will use the same Crower 288/288 cams and Crower cam gears as the last few years.

We also have a new set of Hoosier QTP's for the track this year, they are 26" x 9.5" x 15". From what I have read they are the C07 Hoosier compound, so a little harder then the full Hoosier slick option which uses the D06 compound and sized in at 26 x 8 x 15, which is section width vs tread width, both come in at a section width in the 9.5" range and tread width of 8".

I have read the QTP tires will be more consistent and last a little longer, and with no burn out put the car in the 1.5 60' range, and any one that knows silly 1/4 mile math.... I am just saying.

With the bigger tire diameter we gain 10% in each gear, which is good because on the record run last year the car crossed the line at BIR at almost 9800 rpm in 4th gear, so the new tires put the car at a top speed in 4th at about 175 mph (est for 2012), vs 162 mph (est for 2011).

So when we up the boost to 46-48psi and spray a 50-75 shot of nitrous, if the tranny holds at all, which the AEM will control and limit boost in 1st gear, we might see some series shit.

Here are some end of the year pics (2011) of the car driving down to the MAP fall dyno day, and driving up to Elk River for a car show at Broadway Bar and Grill. And prof that it did run and drive around, I estimate we ended up putting about 1500 miles on the car last year.

So believe it or not we do have more plans for the car in the works, this is not the end all goal, and part of me wishes it was the end all goal....

Where could one go from here.... well I will say a full round tube chassis, solid rear end, AWD, and retaining the Saloon theme are not out of my thoughts.

I am thinking late this year/next year the car will be 25.5 certified and have all the goods to push that chassis certification.

~John

PS for the ones that may not know, a 25.5 chassis in NHRA is good for a 7.50 ET@180mph.

I want to get some 60' testing in at Grove Creek or Rock Falls before the MAP shoot out, but we will see. My one big race event for this year will be the MAP event.

And a quick thanks to all my sponsors, and there are a few new ones this year: Modern Automotive Performance, Josh with CTS tuning, Ryan, Kyle, CP Pistons, Carrillo rods, Karl Ramm, KRAMM-LOX, Paul, Chuck at HTM, Jacks Trans.

 

[BOOSTIN21]

Fvck me...
Awesome build, I enjoyed watching your progress on the galant board. Makes me miss my old car in a way.
Are you going to be at the MAP Proving Grounds Event?

Cullen

 

[GalantVR41062]

Time for the small update.

The new 3/4 syncro set showed up and they are installed. The tranny shifts great at 10,000rpm and we are working out the tune with the 26" tall tire and shifting. The RPM drop per gear is a lot more then the last few years, but the traction and MPH per gear is well worth it.

My new math says the top speed in each gear at 9500rpm is this: 1st 54mph 2nd 80mph 3rd 126mph 4th 172mph

I have done a few pulls now and am back in sync with the car getting the 3/4 shifts clean.

We are going to the muscle car shoot out at BIR this coming weekend to see what this car does with a 1.5 60', clean shifts, and 41psi.

Also when we are at the track we will test and setup the NLTS, this will help with the new tires and traction, boost drops between gears, in the car its hard to tell, but the logs do not lie.

We are heading up to the All Mitsubishi Cook Out tomorrow then the track is next weekend.

~John

 

[okcpopeman]

How did the car do with the new stickies? Awesome build!

 

[GalantVR41062]

The track had tons of grip, to much for my setup. I broke 5 axles in 3 passes, the number of cars and classes plus no open time trials limited me to 3 runs Saturday and 1 elimination run Sunday morning.

First pass we upped tire pressure to 16psi, and left the line with 8psi. We broke both rear axles at the line.

Swapped out both axles and the 2nd run left the line at 7k with a slip launch no two step. 1.6 60' and ran a 9.8@150.

We made some changes and for the last run of the day we left the line at 7k again no 2 step and broke the driver rear axle at the 30' mark and the car took off for the wall, I counter steered and let off.

Swapped axles and made a few more changes, tire pressure was set to 22psi and our first round of eliminations Sunday left the line at 7k again no 2 step and broke both rear axles at the line, the other guy did not red light, or break out, so that was it for the weekend.

It was a fun weekend and we will try and come up with a plan for cedar falls later this year.

 

[GalantVR41062]

I will work on some pics but the race car is done for the year. I have 2 spare blocks and heads I am bringing to MAP along with my custom CP pistons and Custom Carrillo rods and many other parts and I want a motor that will handle 850AWHP for a season by spring time.

Also on 10-28-2012 at 7;36AM we had our baby girl: Liana Zoey LaCroix. So the race car is on hold for the winter and I want to get out ASAP for NHRA license passes and the Galant VR4 record in ET.

I think with a track that spins a little my setup will do what I want then let it be, enjoy the car again before it sits waiting to decimate our Liana's boy friends car 16 years from now. I better look up how to make some moon shine.

~John

 

[GalantVR41062]

Yes I had the block o ringed before last year, and with the MLS gasket worked great until I turned the boost up a little to high

I had been running around 39-40psi on E98 and towards the end of last year I wanted to see a little more. So the night we drove all over to all the good hang outs and what have you I upped it to 43psi, car felt good so I figured up it to 45ish, but the car made 50psi of boost and lifted the head.

So the MLS gasket in the #3 cylinder on the intake side turned into a blow torch and made short work of the cylinder head and gasket, burt the o ring and singed the deck surface....

This was the 2nd full pull of 2012, I think at 29psi we ended up making 650, then traction issues and other problems ended the dyno sessions with no solid numbers, but based on logs the car was making more power per PSI then 2011 when it made 947AWHP at DB at 44psi.

Not a DD but a streatable race car, I did take it to CUB late one night when Alison needed something from the store.

Her is the little one that has been my focus for the last 4 some months, it is a great thing to be a father, and I hope to give little Liana everything I can. And someday as much I hate to say it I should learn how to distill moon shine so Liana can beat her boyfriends car in a race.

Liana in her baptism out fit knitted by my mom.

The blow out went into the intake runner, so this is the first stage of welding the MAP stage 5 head back up, filling in the floor.

I then stood the head up on end and started building up the deck surface, I will check with a sonic tester to make sure its thick enough before the head goes back on, then I filled in the out side hole, there should still be a small opening for coolant flow on that side. And after decking and putting in new intake valve seats this head should be good to go.

After some talking with my friend Andy I noticed in my logs my voltage would drop to 13.x for a short time then go back up to 14+. We talked and he thought I might be over spinning the alternator and causing voltage issues. So we cut down a factory alternator pulley and welded a factory water pump pulley to it, and this will reduce the alternator rpm by a lot. From what I could find it might spin a little slow at idle but be a lot closer to the peek alternator rpm then over driven by a ton.

And if it does not work, I have a few other factory pulleys and I can just swap it out.

Mains and Rod bearing could be used again, but new ones will be installed, cylinder walls looked great also.

This is the comparison of the 2010 to 2011 pistons from CP. They inspected the 2010 pistons and changed the out shape and machine processes, and the piston skirt wear was reduced by A LOT, and they added more gas ports for the top ring, 6 instead of 4.

Nothing but the best, super easy instal, rock solid performance and easy removal during rebuilds.

With the custom Carrillo rod I can not be happier, the straight I beam, 3/8" CARR rod bolts, wider small end and crazy NASCAR spec balance with the pistons.... I sent them back also and I have full CMM specs and they are EXACTLY the same as when they were produced, crazy.

Here is a pic of my car launching at the line at the Muscle Car Shoot out at BIR from 2012, the track had way to much bite for my setup, I made 1 full pass and broke 5 rear axels in that event.

So I ordered some tranny refresh parts from JACKS. I hope this gives me close to a season of use.

I am replacing the evo 3 4th gear, I dont make the torque as Mark does but this gear has 2 years on it.

I am also replacing the 2nd gear synchro, if the car spins it has and will lock me out of 2nd, not a bad thing but I figure just to be safe. and also I will switch back to only 1/2 quart Redline shock proof light and the rest mitsu tranny fluid, JACKS is pretty sure the red line shock proof will cause synchros to fail. IDK I only stripped a used final drive late 2010.

I do have the car spun around so the next week or 2 I can start on chute mount and what not.

~John

 

[turbotalon1g]

Nice work man, you will have to come out to the track with us the next time we do a DSM track day.

 

[GalantVR41062]

All my new tranny parts showed up, and I picked up a used tranny with evo 3 stuff in side, it hurt the intermediate shaft and 4th gear so I have some extra parts and will buy a new intermediate shaft to fix this tranny for a back up this year.

I also dropped off my new block, MAP stage 5 head, and all the parts needed to make a good long block minus cams at MAP so they can build me a motor to handle 875AWHP for the season.

I plan for my car to be at the track for the MAP proving grounds late June, see you then.

I am going to re make my heat exchanger tank and use my old radiator as my heat exchanger up front.

Here are the new tranny parts, I am going to run 2 quarts Mitsu MTF 75w 85 and the rest shock proof light gear oil.

~John