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The "busted hose" that turned into a melted head.

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Derrack

10+ Year Contributor
49
1
Nov 5, 2009
juneau, Alaska
I'm talking to some people about this but am looking for more opinions. If any of you live near Port Orchard Washington and might have a parts car or a good brain I could pick send me a pm.

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Here's a quick copy of the low downs.

As of right now my car was boosting at twelve psi. As to how it occurred I was driving to my school when the car had a loss of power feeling like a lack of fuel. You know, hit the gas and loss power. My temperature gauge was fine while this was happening. Anyways, so when I popped my hood I could hear the oil popping. The coolant was empty and I figured a hose came disconnected. I didn't have the time to mess with it at the moment. So I hitched a ride to school from a friendly automobile and came back when I was finished with my flight.

It turns out the hose going to the oil cooler burst. It was a half round burst on an elbow. I think that's from a pressure surge. I checked the coolant color when I bought the car and it was green. But it could have been diluted and froze, causing the blown hose. So I went and got a hose. I replaced it on the side of the road and started to fill up the antifreeze. After two gallons I figured it was almost full. At two and a half I knew something was wrong. I didn't check far enough back on the car for leaks. I found out I had an exhaust leek by the rear tires... because there was antifreeze coming out. I got it towed home and when I stripped it down there was gasket material in the top of the head, by the cams. When I pulled the head bolts there was more on the number nine and ten bolts. When I pulled the head there was antifreeze in the one and four cylinders. A chunk missing above the two and three cylinders between two collant passages and the number two cylinder dish area. The chunk was shallow and doesn't seem to have damaged the cylinder wall or piston. Must have been from the heat because there was some aluminum fused to the number ten head *or was it nine? the top* bolt. And a little on the top deck of the block through the gasket. So minuscule On the block deck that a gasket scraper knocked it off. The piston head and cylinder walls look fine and dandy.

When I say it over heated I'm talking some serious heat. The spark plug wire's plastic posts and lower foam boots melted and fused around the spark plug like a puddle, but still attached to the top boot and post. A filter on my valve cover was extremely droopy. Oil baked under the valve color, black on one half. The cams and such are a very dark brown. A sticker on my oil filter shriveled up. All the freeze plugs are good. I think the coolant flowed out of the system faster than it heated up and my temperature sensor was detecting hot air.

I'm Fixing the obvious and hoping the rest of the car took care of itself. I doubt it. Probably going to have leaky everything. My funds are so tight at the moment that I might be a couple gaskets away from fixing the problem. So I might just re-use some. I got a hold of a person in the Everet area that has a stock head he'll give me for one hundred and twenty bucks. I'm going to need to find a valve cover soon because of some cracks around the bolt holes. Some one torqued them down too hard previously and fixed it with JB weld.

The car was driving great before this happened. I was told the bottom end was stock rebuilt ten thousand miles ago. After I bought the car I noticed some Mickey Mouse stuff, pointing too someone taking it out of the car at home. I hope it wasn't a garage rebuild. Buying something else is not an option.

Got any ideas on any other reason this happened other then this? I need to cover any bases I can to try and get this resolved in one shot. This is my daily driver. I wasn't planning on messing with it in the aftermarket sense till I have the job thing squared away.
 

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Looks like all the coolant drained, your temp gauge was reading the air temp in the cooling system, which might not have been super hot (although when I hit an air bubble in my cooling system, my gauge skyrockets and comes back down instantly)

That is some nasty damage... are you planning to completely rebuild the motor, or are you just going to slap on a new head and gasket?

I would strongly urge you to pull the block, get it checked out/machined, grab some new stock rods, pistons, and bearings and call it a day. If you are doing all the labor, you could probably get everything done for under $1000. I know that's still a good chunk of cash, but if you have someone that can give you transportation in the mean time, it is very much worth doing while it's pulled apart.

BTW: I'm in Marysville if you need help with anything
 
Anyone know if a 4g63 head off a galant will fit a 4g63t 95 gst engine? Also according to my little mitsubishi for dummies book aka chiltons manual the 98 trbo eclipse has the same head as the 95? wrong right? If your in the "know" I'd apreciate you stopping by alot to help out in the brain power department.

Yeah, I'm just going to put a straight edge on the deck. Try to stick a feeler guage under it. If it's not too bad I'll just slap on another stock head. I'll also pull the oil pan and take a peek at the bottom end. I think I've got the hook up on a stock head for $120 close by. Need to find another valve cover. Then another hundred on gaskets and I should be rolling again. With the way things have been working out it might not d it. My luck kind of ran dry the moment my body crossed the alaska state lines into washington.
 
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make sure you check the deck of the new head, and make sure it has not been blet surfaced.

also check the head bolt holes, I do not know the year split, but there are diffrences between the 6 bolt head 1G (12mm bolts) and the 2G (11mm bolts)
 
Anyone know if a 4g63 head off a galant will fit a 4g63t 95 gst engine? Also according to my little mitsubishi for dummies book aka chiltons manual the 98 trbo eclipse has the same head as the 95? wrong right? If your in the "know" I'd apreciate you stopping by alot to help out in the brain power department.

They are the same if you use your cam sensor. 95/96 are by themselves having the cam sensor behind the cam gear (retarded idea), 97+ put it back on the other side similar to a 1G. If you want to switch to a 1G style head and use the 1G CAS, you can find a head anywhere easily, as many Mitsubishi's and Hyundai's use the same head.
 
So with the galant head I'll have to use my cam sensor. I take it your saing it will bolt right in. With any other head 97 or 98 do I use the cam sensor on it? Is it the same plug and everything? Or will I need to jack the connector on the wire harness and swap it to my wire loom?
 
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