TB Elbow Bolt Size w/SSAutoChrome FMIC

[GSXeclipsePSI]

Hey guys, I had tried asking the question before. I need to get my boost leak down to none but I can't seem to seal my TB elbow to the intake manifold cause I can't get the 4th bolt to get tight cause you can't get a wrench in there.

I was suggested to put a Allen head bolt in there but I need sizes since the only place close to me is 1hr 1/2 to get it, and want to make sure I have the size (pitch,length etc right)

I have a 1G intake manifold on my 6bolt swap 2g. I kept the 2G TB since I couldn't get the TB. I moved the studs. On a 2G the intake manifold to TB studs are the left side of the 4 bolt pattern. So I put a studs in the corner since a bolt wouldn't go in on the curve.

I need to know the TB to Intake Manifold tread pattern and size if anyone know is.

I'm thinking of cutting my FMIC elbow, using the stock on and add another coupler. What should I do?

 

[thekellbeast]

I ended up using a needle-nosed Vice grip to get it pretty damn tight. If you get the short (retard bus) wrenches that are about 2" long, you can get a little bit of a turn at a time. It's a total bi*** but it's possible.

Anyways, you can't put a bolt through there, since you can't fit it on the elbow side, and I have no idea how you intend to tighten it, if you put it through from the throttle side.

If it comes down to the absolute last option, remove the fuel rail and all plugs in the area. That should clear it up enough to crank it down.

Edit: I believe the 1g N/T throttle body is bigger, or close to the size of the 1g Turbo TB, but has a lip on the end for a couple. You could possible use one of those, with a 90* coupler. That's basically the setup I'm intending to run when I switch over to a SMIM, Q45 TB, and GM MAF.

 

[GSXeclipsePSI]

i think cutting FMIC elbow and making it fit with stock 2g elbow a add cut, coupling and 2 claps just elimanting the FMIC elbow since 2g is made 2 access lower bolt.

 

[DGajre777]

I used a needle nose to get the nut on, turned it with my finger and then used an open socket wrench to tighten it down. If you have leak issues, take it off and take it to a machine shop and have them put it on a belt sander to make it flat. They are known to not have a flat surface because apparently the company that makes it machines them flat and then welds it to the pipe (but you are supposed to do it the other way around).

 

[JWoodley]

I cut down a wrench and got mine as tight as I desired. It's a bit of a squeeze to work in there.

 

[thekellbeast]

If you have leak issues, take it off and take it to a machine shop and have them put it on a belt sander to make it flat. .

The belt sander at work doesn't work. I spent all afternoon filing the throttle body flange and BOV flange flat, by hand. Talk about mind-numbing work.

 

[winterftbl]

Just take your bolt to the hardware store and find an angled wrench to fit in there. Thats what i did and its tight as hell.

 

[GSXeclipsePSI]

This lower bolt I can get tighter, there is still now way to get a bolt in there, it has to be a stud, angle is off...

Anybody with a SSAutochrome FMIC or XSPower FMIC from ebay have this problem?

 

[Ceddy]

I cut a slot in the flange so I could slide a bolt in. Also replaced the two studs with bolts.
Tighten the lower front first then the remaining.
Leak free to 30 psi.

 

[rich3389]

I also grinded down an open end wrench and I can turn that nut no problem.